Cooling Fan Issues

[don_w]

Peter (Thump_RRR) turned me on to it and i cant explain why but it definately works better after having tried it. I monitored temps via the SCT software and timed everything. Much quicker alternating.

Is there maybe some sort of bypass in the coolant system for the heater core?

 

[Mick Mach]

what is the harm of jsut running the fan on high speed all the time instead of having the low speed as well

Don...glad you found your fan problem
so..other than extra wear and tear on the fan assembly why not just run a wire from the relay straight to a ground without a togle switch? does the key need to be "on" for the fan to run using this type of setup? or will the fan run just by grounding it? some of you already run the fan on high all the time so I see.

 

[FalconGTHO]

Today I found out some interesting information from my local Ford
source. In 2007 Ford introduced a "increased capacity cooling fan" for the
GT 500s. Probably part of the larger front fascia opening, larger radiator
& heat extractor hood package. That same fan was also introduced on the
mid year production 2007 4.6L cars and is now std. equipment on all 4.6L &5.4L S197s. If you order a replacement fan/shroud assembly, the part# is
automatically superseded by the new fan/shroud part#.

I purchased one of these new fan/shroud assemblies for my 2005 GT as the low speed fan failed. The part # is 7R3Z-8C607-A. List price was $375, but with my discount I picked one up for $240. .

So, after reading this thread, the only thing that makes it "extra capacity" is the resistor thats built into the shroud? Theres no deeper pitch on the blades or a faster spin rate, etc? What constitutes "mid year"? Id like to see if I have this fan without removing to check for the resistor.

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

I just went out and swapped out the 40A with another one, and still no go. I moved the relays back and forth. Zilch. So I double checked the wires going to the fan motor. The connections seemed OK... but... as I wiggled and tugged the wires a bit, the fan started working. A slight wiggle to the wire and it quits. So, it looks like the problem is either a bad wire or connector. At least it should be an easy fix... once I get a new one from the dealer next week.

Thanks for all the help!!!

Shit, cut the connector out and hard wire it (solder it)! These connectors they use on these cars just invite problems with corrosion and stuff.

Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[don_w]

Don...glad you found your fan problem
so..other than extra wear and tear on the fan assembly why not just run a wire from the relay straight to a ground without a togle switch? does the key need to be "on" for the fan to run using this type of setup? or will the fan run just by grounding it? some of you already run the fan on high all the time so I see.

Yes, the key has to be "on". And sure, you run the relay straight to ground. But personally, I like having the option to have the key on, but not run the fan.

Shit, cut the connector out and hard wire it (solder it)! These connectors they use on these cars just invite problems with corrosion and stuff.

LOL... you apparently haven't seen my soldering skillz... I don't have any.

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

Yes, the key has to be "on". And sure, you run the relay straight to ground. But personally, I like having the option to have the key on, but not run the fan.


LOL... you apparently haven't seen my soldering skillz... I don't have any.

A good high wattage iron is needed. I have a 50 watt Weller.

Get yer soldering iron and while it is cold, take a file to it and remove any corrosion off of the tip. Down to the shiny copper is best.

Then heat the iron up and "tin" it by allowing some solder to melt on the tip and wick around the entire tip.

Parallel wrap the wires to be soldered, then apply a bit of solder on the iron to form a small ball. Touch the ball of solder to the back of the wires such that the solder ball is firmly against the wire and iron. Apply solder to the top of the wire (not the iron) and let it run and wick all the wires. Keep the iron against the wire until it is hot enough to melt the solder, and until you finish. When it gets all silver looking (tinned), remove the iron, and viola, you have a good solder joint.

The key is using the solder ball to get the heat transfer into the wire, and then tinning the wire on the top with the solder. This method will prevent you from having a weak or cold solder joint.

If your iron gets corroded/black from the rosin, get a wet sponge and rub the tip on it to remove the black shit, and yes you do this when the iron is at full operating temp.

Always use rosin core solder for electronics, and never use acid core for electronics, because the acid will lead to joint corrosion.

Congratulations, you are now a graduate of the Donald E. Kincaid, Ph.D Clemson University, Professor Emeritis Physics, North Georgia College and State University, and my undergrad friend, mentor & advisor, school of soldering!!

Hope this helps and happy soldering!

Mike

 

[Mick Mach]

thanks Don. good to see its a preference thing then. either way is good.
Mike..thanks for the soldering tips. I use to solder back in the RC car days but it has been a while. great points!

 

[don_w]

Mike, thanks for the pointers!! You should post that as a new thread in the DIY forum!!

 

[94tbird]

Mike, thanks for the pointers!! You should post that as a new thread in the DIY forum!!

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8657

copied post into new thread for him in DIY

 

[don_w]

Did I say I hate electrical issues?

I can't seem to get the wiring connectors loose from the fan. I can't see down in there well enough to know for sure how the connectors attach. And I know if I force them, I'll end up breaking something (that's the way it works with me). I also haven't be able to find a pictoral diagram that shows the connectors on there. Unless I find something, I guess I'll need to pull the whole fan out to get to it. So the simple fix isn't quite so simple.

 

[94tbird]

pulling the fan is super simple and you might as well do it if its that tight

 

[don_w]

I found this PDF for Cooling Fan Motor and Shroud (removal/installation).

I also added the same PDF to post #11 in the Service Manual Guide thread.

 

[don_w]

I found this PDF for Cooling Fan Motor and Shroud (removal/installation).

I also added the same PDF to post #11 in the Service Manual Guide thread.

I just looked again at that PDF, and the wire harness I need to replace is not listed as a separate part number. That probably means Ford will want to sell me a whole frikkin fan assembly instead of two measly wires. Maybe I will try to solder them directly...

 

[don_w]

I pulled the fan assembly out last night, and inspected it. The connector going directly to the fan motor has a black and red wire. The terminal on the black wire shows signs of excessive heat. The female connector is dark... not shiny like on the red wire, and there is white deposits on the black plastic around that terminal.

I considered soldering the wires directly to the male terminals on the fan, but decided against it. Something is causing that terminal to get too hot, and if its in the fan motor, then bypassing the connector won't necessarily help. I'd rather be safe than sorry... time to spring for a whole new fan assembly.

So, using tmcolegr's listed part number (7R3Z-8C607-A), I did a Google search and came up with this for around $100. Any reason why I should not go this route? Another option is RockAuto, but it's twice the price.

 

[US-1]

Is there maybe some sort of bypass in the coolant system for the heater core?

No. You are just using another area to shed heat out of the coolant system. Heater core is a fin/tube design similar to a radiator so it will pull heat out of the coolant to heat the interior of the car. Using it along with the fan and electric water pump will speed up the cool down process.

Alternating them is similar to alternating the fan and water pump. You circulate the coolant out of the engine back into the radiator with the pump.......then switch on the fan to cool that down.......then switch the fan off and the pump on to repeat the process. Same with the heater.

 

[don_w]

Yea, I understand how the heater is designed and works, what I didn't understand was how alternating between the heater and the radiator was supposedly more effective than running both simultaneously.

 

[US-1]

Misinterpreted your post. Not sure if it's more effective to alternate them or do them simultaneously. Can't see any real difference in my opinion.

 

[don_w]

So, using tmcolegr's listed part number (7R3Z-8C607-A), I did a Google search and came up with this for around $100.

I went ahead and ordered the fan from these guys at Go-Part.Com. Total cost was $119, incl tax and shipping. I'll let you all know later if that was a dumbshit thing to do. hahah

 

[scramblr]

I'm curious as to why something was overheating. Wondering if it has to do with grounding out the relay when you flip the switch in the cabin. I wired mine based on Peter's recommendation to use the high-speed fan relay. Did you ever switch the connection?

 

[don_w]

Did you ever switch the connection?

Not until now...