JG-1
forum member
Good to know. Thank you.Last I checked the 6 percent discount didn't apply to engines.
Also, i think a factory short block with no issues should be good for about $1000-$1500
Good to know. Thank you.Last I checked the 6 percent discount didn't apply to engines.
Also, i think a factory short block with no issues should be good for about $1000-$1500
No issues at all yet. I’m pushing a lot of power to the wheels and would like to reinforce the bottom end before something bad happens.
So buy a short block like the Aluminator?
I made 801/650 at the wheel on E85. On 93 I made 696 to the wheel. I’m running E85.How much power are you making? If you're 850+rw you probably need to look at a sleeved block as the cylinder walls are the real weak link at elevated power levels.
Labor to R&R an engine is regional plan on 2-grand to pull you motor, strip it ,, assemble the new long block and reinstall ...
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I hear ya on that. Beautiful car for sure.I'd just put a deposit down on a 2020 GT500
well that block is sleeved and will take a lot more boost than an Aluminator. you're not comparing apples to apples.L&M got back to me about what short block they recommended for boost. They suggested the LM2000.
https://www.lmengines.com/engines/5...m-engines-lm2000-5-0l-coyote-short-block.html
For almost $2500 more than the FR Aluminator, what can the LM engine do that the Aluminator can’t?
yes, true, however, as long as you know the limits of what you have and do not push it past that limit, IMO you're good IMHOWith that said, I guess it’s still better to have a motor that is overbuilt rather than under.
What do you guys think of this short block?
http://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-built-5-0-coyote-short-block-rated-1100-hp/
I’m only 2 hours away from JPC, thinking about having them do an engine swap and new transmission.