Costs for a built motor

drive_55_not

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No issues at all yet. I’m pushing a lot of power to the wheels and would like to reinforce the bottom end before something bad happens.

So buy a short block like the Aluminator?

How much power are you making? If you're 850+rw you probably need to look at a sleeved block as the cylinder walls are the real weak link at elevated power levels.

Labor to R&R an engine is regional plan on 2-grand to pull you motor, strip it ,, assemble the new long block and reinstall ...

.
 

JG-1

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How much power are you making? If you're 850+rw you probably need to look at a sleeved block as the cylinder walls are the real weak link at elevated power levels.

Labor to R&R an engine is regional plan on 2-grand to pull you motor, strip it ,, assemble the new long block and reinstall ...

.
I made 801/650 at the wheel on E85. On 93 I made 696 to the wheel. I’m running E85.
 

stkjock

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L&M got back to me about what short block they recommended for boost. They suggested the LM2000.
https://www.lmengines.com/engines/5...m-engines-lm2000-5-0l-coyote-short-block.html

For almost $2500 more than the FR Aluminator, what can the LM engine do that the Aluminator can’t?
well that block is sleeved and will take a lot more boost than an Aluminator. you're not comparing apples to apples.


the motor I linked above is an apples to apples.

I know Michael pretty well, he likes to suggest parts that will increase the margin of error in an effort to avoid the engine letting go. I'd bet the LM2000 is capable of 1500 hp
 

JG-1

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I don’t think I’d ever push more than 1000 at the wheel and even that for street car is insane. With that said, I guess it’s still better to have a motor that is overbuilt rather than under.
 

stkjock

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With that said, I guess it’s still better to have a motor that is overbuilt rather than under.
yes, true, however, as long as you know the limits of what you have and do not push it past that limit, IMO you're good IMHO
 

nfrizell

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Find a reputable and respected builder in your racing community. Tell him what your goals are. Drop off your car. Open your wallet. If you intend to use your car. Expect that you will have to open your wallet again.
This is an expensive game, if you start nickle and diming your builder, you will be spending more in the long run. You want him to build it like it was his own and pay him what he feels he is worth. Believe it or not, this is the least expensive way to go.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

stkjock

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RGR and JPC are quality shops. Can’t go wrong
 

konablue11gt

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Honestly if your going to build it to hold boost get it sleeved it will last a lot longer and be more forgiving for that once in awhile oops while being more $ its well worth the piece of mind to know you have something that should hold up to qanything your going to throw at it not to mention boost is an addicts game once you add it you are always wanting more
 

1950StangJump$

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What do you guys think of this short block?

http://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-built-5-0-coyote-short-block-rated-1100-hp/

I’m only 2 hours away from JPC, thinking about having them do an engine swap and new transmission.

I've had stuff done at JPC, and I like them a lot. Like most places, some of their guys are better than others, but I suspect that the engine builders are going to be the best they got.

Also, Justin has a "satisfy the customer at all costs" mentality that I respect. In a lot of other places, if you aren't 100% satisfied, you almost have to talk your way into getting the problem rectified.
 

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