Coyote Catastrophic Failure

[UltraKla$$ic]

I guess a cam change is out for me. Too much work!!!

Nice job Bill!!! Keep going!!

 

[Seer]

I guess a cam change is out for me. Too much work!!!

Nice job Bill!!! Keep going!!

with the tivct, theres no real need to do cams in these cars unless you're going for some radical NA build.

 

[blackgt87]

Lemme know if you need help droppin it in bill

Thanks man.

I am not real excited about the "machine" work in the pics either.

I agree it is not exactly aesthetically pleasing. I guess if I had a machinst do it, it would look better. You could probably just use a Bridgeport and get the same thing done in less time and it would look better. But its pretty basic, the roller hits the head so you grind a little off. Be nice to see a later '12 head or a '13 head to see if the notch really is bigger.

Or are you referring to the chamber?

with the tivct, theres no real need to do cams in these cars unless you're going for some radical NA build.

Yeah and you lose a lot down low when you lock the phasers out. Not to mention if you install cams made for a coyote head you don't have to grind anything. Those are like 1000 dollars more than these exhaust cams though, I don't know if that would be worth it for me.

I just wanted to see if the increased lift on the exhaust side would help with the blower, for 220 bucks, a little grinding, and the fact that I already had the appropriate springs installed I figured I'd go for it.

I just wouldn't say this is an accurate representation of a cam swap in a coyote, this is specifically retro-fitting boss exhaust cams in GT heads.

 

[Mystickeith50]

Man if ur local to seer u must be pretty local to me too. I would have loooved to help as well to give me a head start in mine when the time comes. I said it before I have built the shit out if push rod motors, but this ohc nonsense scared the shit out of me lolololol.

 

[ArtQ]

Umm I think this is a joke but I'm a little lost lol. Powerhouse had the exhaust cams there when he fixed the head. Mike put the exhaust cams in the head and torqued the caps down then rotated the camshaft around to open the exhaust valves all the way, that's how he checked to make sure that the roller on the follower didn't hit/rub/scrub on the head. I don't know how much clearance is required, it could be "as long as it doesn't touch" or maybe there's some minimum distance to allow for expansion and shit. That's one of the reasons I am glad I had someone who knows what they are doing take care of that part, Mike@powerhouse did consult Mike@L&M on this...so I feel like I can trust his work.

Yeah..It was a joke, just waiting for all the "machine work" comments...LOL.. It's going to work just fine!

Man if ur local to seer u must be pretty local to me too. I would have loooved to help as well to give me a head start in mine when the time comes. I said it before I have built the shit out if push rod motors, but this ohc nonsense scared the shit out of me lolololol.

It's all nuts and bolts...Nothing to be alarmed about...

 

[blackgt87]

Man if ur local to seer u must be pretty local to me too. I would have loooved to help as well to give me a head start in mine when the time comes. I said it before I have built the shit out if push rod motors, but this ohc nonsense scared the shit out of me lolololol.

My zip code is 44460, you guys are welcome to stop over any time. Just bring some sandpaper, scrapers, and outdoor white paint!! hahaha

Yeah..It was a joke, just waiting for all the "machine work" comments...LOL.. It's going to work just fine!



It's all nuts and bolts...Nothing to be alarmed about...

LOL ok. I know it's not exactly pretty but the grinding for the followers doesn't concern me at all. It's under the valve cover and its not hitting which is fine. Now the chamber would be another story.

And actually hes right. It's all nuts and bolts. There's no magic, no "fitting" no filing no crazy techniques. The best analogy I can make is its more like putting an AR15 together from scratch, and nothing like putting a 1911 together from scratch. One you have to be a gunsmith and fit and "finesse" the parts together to work smooth and just right. The other is modular and just kinda goes together.

I am learning A LOT though.

 

[Mystickeith50]

Oh shit never mind...Ohio is like 10hrs. I guess I assumed u were like central pa.....d'oh.

 

[avinaj80]

Wow, talk about seeing the full spectrum... Good read for sure. Nice rebuild and sorry about the bad luck. I'd be SOL if my engine blew up... Keep up the good work and keep the pics comin!!!

 

[NeoTokyo]

HOLY CRAP! This is a huge thread.
Sorry for all the hell you went through but it looks like its coming along great now.

 

[blackgt87]

Oh shit never mind...Ohio is like 10hrs. I guess I assumed u were like central pa.....d'oh.

Ohh ok. Guess my door is SOL lol

Wow, talk about seeing the full spectrum... Good read for sure. Nice rebuild and sorry about the bad luck. I'd be SOL if my engine blew up... Keep up the good work and keep the pics comin!!!

HOLY CRAP! This is a huge thread.
Sorry for all the hell you went through but it looks like its coming along great now.

Thanks

 

[wproctor411]

Yes, for sure!!! Did they take those heads and have them cryod, then bring them down to near the earth's core........if it wasn't...I think you may just be looking at a second catastrophic failure..

Funny stuff. Maybe some advice for a Ferrari F1 team but Ford isn't doing that. LOL
I would be interested in seeing if the heads were checked for cracks.
I am building up a collection parts to do a build myself and this had been a good thread.

OP are you replacing the harmonic balancer? OEM GT balancers are not going to hold up as well as an SFI approved unit at high RPM and could throw the engine out of balance. Not sure if the boss balancer is different or not.

 

[blackgt87]

Funny stuff. Maybe some advice for a Ferrari F1 team but Ford isn't doing that. LOL
I would be interested in seeing if the heads were checked for cracks.
I am building up a collection parts to do a build myself and this had been a good thread.

OP are you replacing the harmonic balancer? OEM GT balancers are not going to hold up as well as an SFI approved unit at high RPM and could throw the engine out of balance. Not sure if the boss balancer is different or not.

I reused the stock balancer. I honestly don't plan to rev this motor even as high as the last one so an SFI balancer wasn't high on my list, probably a good idea though.

 

[blackgt87]

Ok I got some pictures of last nights progress uploaded. It actually looks like I got something done!

Heres a shot pretty much right before the valve cover went on, the factory ford silicone cleaned off pretty easy and I used "Right Stuff" when I reassembled it.

My x pipe also showed up

And after a couple more hours of work its starting to look like it's old self!

Ok maybe even a tad better...

So that's pretty much it for motor assembly. I have to bolt the flywheel and clutch on (ordered it over a week ago and I'm still waiting). Then I am pretty much ready to drop it in. I also don't have plugs yet so the coils aren't on, I just set the coil covers on for a dramatic "finished" look lol. I would have set the lower intake and blower on to really make it look badass, but I didn't trust the engine stand to hold all that lmao.

Hopefully its not too bad hooking everything back up and getting the harnes all back on. There are SOOOO many plugs. Other than that it'll be putting the radiator back in and getting all the blower shit back on.

Someone go buy my CAI so I can order my injectors!!

 

[VTXFrank]

Looking good man! I bet you can't wait to get her installed and running! Remember to break her in right.

 

[blackgt87]

Looking good man! I bet you can't wait to get her installed and running! Remember to break her in right.

Thanks man!

::waits for 10 pages arguing how to break a motor in properly::

 

[ArtQ]

::waits for 10 pages arguing how to break a motor in properly::

 

[VTXFrank]

Thanks man!

::waits for 10 pages arguing how to break a motor in properly::

Aw shit.

 

[kon5t]

Thanks man!

::waits for 10 pages arguing how to break a motor in properly::

Thats eass, leave black lines for the first 1500miles

 

[Fake_Snake]

What heat range spark plugs were in there when it let go? (I'm not implying this had anything to do with your motor letting go) because they looked pretty warm. Maybe some TR7s or maybe even 8s would be in order?

 

[Grimace427]

Thanks man!

::waits for 10 pages arguing how to break a motor in properly::

According to the AllFordMustangs.com owner's manual, proper break-in requires driving as slowly and gently as possible never getting over 2,000rpm, then changing the oil after 18.3 miles to remove all metal shavings. Then immediately visit your service department to diagnose that strange ticking noise!