What are your goals with the car? Do you drag race it? Autocross/Road Course? Mainly street-driven?
DIY shock tower brace
- Thread starter StangPhD
- Start date
Dubstep Shep
WUB WUB VROOM VROOM
StangPhD
forum member
Street and strip.......
Dubstep Shep
WUB WUB VROOM VROOM
Running a Torsen diff on a drag car? Aren't Torsen diffs easily damaged by hard launches?
StangPhD
forum member
Haven't heard that about a T2? Fine so far.
kenny brown makes a rear shock tower brace too...
StangPhD
forum member
I did not know that....thanks.
Dubstep Shep
WUB WUB VROOM VROOM
That was my understanding. The hard launches can damage the teeth on the gears in the diff.
Torsion diffs are fantastic for road racing and autocross though because they transfer power to the wheel with the most grip.
StangPhD
forum member
OK…..you said you had a few suggestions….what are they?
Dubstep Shep
WUB WUB VROOM VROOM
Well for a drag car tubs and a locking diff seem like a good place to start. Also a roll bar if you haven't already. Slicks, and so on.
Drag racing isn't my forte though. You'd be better suited checking the drag racing section of the forum and seeing what people have done.
Drag racing isn't my forte though. You'd be better suited checking the drag racing section of the forum and seeing what people have done.
Renesis07
forum member
Had a steeda bar in my 2006.... Not going to lie I didn't notice a single bit of difference with it, then again, I never had mine welded in. Looked fantastic though, caught a lot of attention at car shows and whatnot.
white95
boost or bust
quoted from a similar thread on a different forum [ http://www.sn95forums.com/showthrea...strut-tower-brace&highlight=shock+tower+brace ]
Here are several thoughts on this.
1. Rear shock tower brace offers no gains in terms of rear suspension geometry. All of your rear suspension geometry is actually calculated through control arms, or panhard bar/watts link. Any deflection that is going through the rear tub of the car has very little effect on how the car handles and puts the power down.
2. I'm not sure what kind of bushings you'd use on those, but if it's stock rubber bushings, then your whole brace is rendered useless, due to massive amount of deflection in those rubber pieces. Also, there is no triangulation between the the shock brace and the rest of the floor pan, so even if there was any load on the rear part of the car, you'd just see the rear towers walk along with the chassis like a weak square frame.
3. Shocks towers carry absolutely no load unless you are running coil over conversion. There is very little deflection caused by loading on the rear suspension
Here are several thoughts on this.
1. Rear shock tower brace offers no gains in terms of rear suspension geometry. All of your rear suspension geometry is actually calculated through control arms, or panhard bar/watts link. Any deflection that is going through the rear tub of the car has very little effect on how the car handles and puts the power down.
2. I'm not sure what kind of bushings you'd use on those, but if it's stock rubber bushings, then your whole brace is rendered useless, due to massive amount of deflection in those rubber pieces. Also, there is no triangulation between the the shock brace and the rest of the floor pan, so even if there was any load on the rear part of the car, you'd just see the rear towers walk along with the chassis like a weak square frame.
3. Shocks towers carry absolutely no load unless you are running coil over conversion. There is very little deflection caused by loading on the rear suspension
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StangPhD
forum member
And that is why this forum is awesome. Thank you. That post alone saved me time, money and sweat.
StangPhD
forum member
But I made so many friends in the discussion......
white95
boost or bust
With friends like us, who needs enemies 
Just to answer the question if you wanted to DIY a brace. I would find a car that is similar width buy the bar for that and either drill holes in the mounting plate to match up with yours or make a new mounting plate. If you can make the mounting plate you can make the whole brace though
warrior86
ODIN
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StangPhD, Are you made of money!!?! damn lol
DiMora
More Is Better
Add a Whiteline Watts Link.
Also consider a Tremec T56 Magnum XL tranny in lieu of your 6060. Direct shift is so niiizzze.
Also consider a Tremec T56 Magnum XL tranny in lieu of your 6060. Direct shift is so niiizzze.
The steeda rear stb HAS to be welded in. http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-2005-rear-shocktower-brace.html Mine is tig welded into place. If it's not welded, it's not doing anything,since the hole in the top of the brace's bracket is large. The bracket's two lips are folded down 90 deg..which is where they get tig welded, onto the sides of the rear shock tower's. The sheet metal between the rear struts is thin enough as is.
On a similar note, steeda now makes a rear X brace that does not require a rear seat delete. The bottom corner's of the X are welded to the rear shock tower's. The tops corner's each have 3 x holes. 2 holes are used for bolts, the 3rd hole is for welding. AM tells me that the steeda rear STB and the new X brace can be used simultaneously. New X brace is made from 1 3/8" OD chromolly tubing, .083" wall. http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-xbrace-0514coupe.html
Shipping weight is 14 lbs. Net weight is 10 lbs.
On a similar note, steeda now makes a rear X brace that does not require a rear seat delete. The bottom corner's of the X are welded to the rear shock tower's. The tops corner's each have 3 x holes. 2 holes are used for bolts, the 3rd hole is for welding. AM tells me that the steeda rear STB and the new X brace can be used simultaneously. New X brace is made from 1 3/8" OD chromolly tubing, .083" wall. http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-xbrace-0514coupe.html
Shipping weight is 14 lbs. Net weight is 10 lbs.
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