Eldelbrock SC

[Johnstone]

I just tried her out after the install of my Edelbrock eforce.

Either its not well tuned or im not used to driving wirh a supercharger.
I feel the throttle response laging between 0-3k rpm it hesitates..
even at idle if im reving it I really neef to press on the gas pedal to get it going..

Ill definitly need to go see my installer this week.. EVEN my bluetooth is no longer availavle lol

Anyone experience this after a fresh install?

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[01yellerCobra]

So you installed it and don't have a tune yet? Or was it a canned tune?

 

[Johnstone]

So you installed it and don't have a tune yet? Or was it a canned tune?

Yea its tuned. They tuned on a dyno.

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[01yellerCobra]

Sounds like a bad tune to me then. There shouldn't be any kind of hesitation.

 

[RocketcarX]

post the dyno sheet if ya got it

 

[Johnstone]

Not sure what youll see with those logs.

Ill probably be asking Lito for a tune as soon as roads clear up. We're still getting temps of -7 celcius

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[RocketcarX]

Just curious about the torque curve. The horsepower seems a little low, but the torque looks decent pretty early on.

 

[Johnstone]

Just curious about the torque curve. The horsepower seems a little low, but the torque looks decent pretty early on.

Yea.. i have to bring it back i think the Tune isnt solid.

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[retfr8flyr]

Sounds like he just did wide open throttle tuning on the dyno. Drive-ability tuning requires actually driving around, while data logging, to get all the factors correct. This requires much more time than most tuners want to put into it. I would take it back to him, explain all your problems and see what he will do for you.

 

[Pentalab]

Sounds like he just did wide open throttle tuning on the dyno. Drive-ability tuning requires actually driving around, while data logging, to get all the factors correct. This requires much more time than most tuners want to put into it. I would take it back to him, explain all your problems and see what he will do for you.

This. 95% of the time you are not in boost...at least for general purpose DD use. The edlebrock tune would work better than what you have now.

 

[Johnstone]

This. 95% of the time you are not in boost...at least for general purpose DD use. The edlebrock tune would work better than what you have now.

Makes sense... it's very agressive at when i get to 4k

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[Bingo]

Sounds like he just did wide open throttle tuning on the dyno. Drive-ability tuning requires actually driving around, while data logging, to get all the factors correct. This requires much more time than most tuners want to put into it. I would take it back to him, explain all your problems and see what he will do for you.

Been thinking about a dyno tune myself one of these days, mainly for non-WOT issues. A dyno shop has the capability of doing drivability tuning on the dyno, correct?

 

[retfr8flyr]

Been thinking about a dyno tune myself one of these days, mainly for non-WOT issues. A dyno shop has the capability of doing drivability tuning on the dyno, correct?

As far as I know it depends on the dyno. It's my understanding that, especially with an automatic, actually driving it while data logging is the best way to correct drive ability issues. A dyno just doesn't load a converter properly, to find out all the problems.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Been thinking about a dyno tune myself one of these days, mainly for non-WOT issues. A dyno shop has the capability of doing drivability tuning on the dyno, correct?

A good tuner will want you to drive around. Way different then sitting on a dyno. And it usually takes a couple times to get things right. The tuner that taught me would hab e the person drive around while he datalogged and made changes.

 

[Pentalab]

As far as I know it depends on the dyno. It's my understanding that, especially with an automatic, actually driving it while data logging is the best way to correct drive ability issues. A dyno just doesn't load a converter properly, to find out all the problems.

A dyno won't simulate stuff like going up various grades of hills. A dyno won't simulate airflow resistance either, which is a huge effect. Air pressure on the car goes up to the square of the wind velocity. Impact pressure at 100 mph is quadruple that of 50 mph...which is quadruple that of 25 mph. 200 mph is quadruple the pressure of 50 mph. Those big fans they use at dyno shops put out a lot of air but their air velocity speed is very low.... like 16-25 mph at most. Those big fan speeds can be calculated or measured very easily. You can wind anything up to 150 mph on the dyno. One thing I have not seen tried, is to wind the car up in OD, on the dyno. In theory, with no air resistance, you should be able to wind it up to 200+ mph. On a long track or hwy, you would never be able to wind it up to 200 mph... the wind resistance would kill it long before that.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Not arguing with any of that except the part that his HP seemed low.

Assuming he has no other modifications, 432 HP at the wheels is a reasonable number. Dyno dependent, of course.

I have a Kenne Bell Stage 1, Kooks Headers, and a CAI. I told the tuner I wanted VERY CONSERVATIVE, as I saw no reason to risk the stock block on a weekend-driven street car when I couldn't get the back tires to hook up anyway. I ended up with 440 HP, which was actually a touch less than the Kenne Bell canned tune (though the numbers were taken on two different dynos with different weather conditions).

I realize he left a lot on the table but 432 for the OP with no other modifications isn't too bad.

 

[Johnstone]

Not arguing with any of that except the part that his HP seemed low.

Assuming he has no other modifications, 432 HP at the wheels is a reasonable number. Dyno dependent, of course.

I have a Kenne Bell Stage 1, Kooks Headers, and a CAI. I told the tuner I wanted VERY CONSERVATIVE, as I saw no reason to risk the stock block on a weekend-driven street car when I couldn't get the back tires to hook up anyway. I ended up with 440 HP, which was actually a touch less than the Kenne Bell canned tune (though the numbers were taken on two different dynos with different weather conditions).

I realize he left a lot on the table but 432 for the OP with no other modifications isn't too bad.

The HP is low and I was expecting more..

The car was never tested besides Dyno. We are just finishing our winter.

Ive taken it for two quick runs, she doesnt feel right very agressive on the high end, a cow on low end and my steering wheel shakes so much when cruising at 65mph..

The guys I brought it too are aware and did say they didnt test her properly due to snow on the roads. I will be brining it in this week i hope.. Snow is finally melting away.

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[1950StangJump$]

The HP is low and I was expecting more..

The car was never tested besides Dyno. We are just finishing our winter.

Ive taken it for two quick runs, she doesnt feel right very agressive on the high end, a cow on low end and my steering wheel shakes so much when cruising at 65mph..

The guys I brought it too are aware and did say they didnt test her properly due to snow on the roads. I will be brining it in this week i hope.. Snow is finally melting away.

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Your car might drive like shit. But, unless you have a bunch of mods other than the Edelbrock, your peak HP isn't that bad. And variations between dynos might mean you have more or less HP than what would register at another dyno.

450 RWHP is the generally accepted "safe" HP for the stock motor, though I realize many guys are pushing it beyond that. They are not as risk-averse as I am . . . good for them.

 

[46addict]

You are making almost 12psi of boost at 6k rpm. That is a lot of pressure if you have a stock rotating assy. I agree on what the others said above about the shortfalls of dyno tunes. I have wasted money on a dyno tune before and had Lito write me a new tune. I ended up with something that made power from the low end all the way to redline instead of only when there is boost. Since he is a remote tuner I did datalogs on the street which simulates everyday driving. Power delivery was also smoother and it drove like stock during part throttle. He can probably have your setup make more power with less boost for the sake of your engine.

 

[Johnstone]

You are making almost 12psi of boost at 6k rpm. That is a lot of pressure if you have a stock rotating assy. I agree on what the others said above about the shortfalls of dyno tunes. I have wasted money on a dyno tune before and had Lito write me a new tune. I ended up with something that made power from the low end all the way to redline instead of only when there is boost. Since he is a remote tuner I did datalogs on the street which simulates everyday driving. Power delivery was also smoother and it drove like stock during part throttle. He can probably have your setup make more power with less boost for the sake of your engine.

Ive already messaged Lito.. i will be getting a tune from him.. but until snow fully melts i cant use Lito. The original tuner owes me at least a descent tune since ive paid for all the work.
Lito did my tune last year.. hes awsone.


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