EPAS Conversion question

Deathstang II

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The EPAS rack will not bolt into a 05-10 Mustang. You have to use the 11 and newer crossmember. Not sure if you are aware of that.

The EPAS will fit on an 05-09 Subframe, however, a small section of the frame needs to be cut to fit the rack properly. Instead of dealing with all that, I just went ahead and put a BMR K-Member on paired up with a '13 EPAS.

@Deathstang II Im with you there... I am looking into doing this mod as well but cannot justify speading $330 USD on a freaking harness. Thats nuts. Need to figure out how to use the OEM one.

I ended up just purchasing the harness unfortunately...Casey makes a solid harness, after purchasing it I will agree it was seamlessly plug and play, no modifying a stock harness to make it function. And If I had any questions he was more than willing to allow me to hit 'em up.

I used the f150 harness and installed one of these on my 05 with a BMR K member, I also didn't use the third mounting hole.

I used the third mounting hole because....well, if its there may as well use it for extra rigidity. That and BMR supplies you with the hardware for the third hole, so why not.
 

FunLovingAxeMurderer

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I used the f150 harness and installed one of these on my 05 with a BMR K member, I also didn't use the third mounting hole.
I've done the BMR K member w/ A-arm rolling 275/40/18 on My 08 GT, And have been think of up grading to EPAS rack.. I like to Know how Yours has work out, And is it a standard EPAS or a Boss 302R rack
 

TexasBlownV8

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Just did this on my '05 with an earlier version of the BMR K-member.
Wiring-wise, I had the connectors from the '13 gt it came from, so used 4 ga. wire for the +/- fo those. There's 2 can twisted pair wires, too, and spliced those into the existing CAN bus from the middle pcm connector harness. For the other yellow power feed, tied to a key-on power source I had added for other things.
I almost went for the F150 engine harness as you can buy them new for around $75. But I needed longer 4 ga. wire to run to my power source (firewall where the battery is usually mounted). Nonetheless, the F150 harness is a great alternative and one I would recommend. There's a writeup in another thread or in a magazine article that showed how they used only the wires needed, but it's pretty simple.

Mechanical-fitment wise, with the older style bmr k-member (where the steering rack bolts run straight down through the front k-member tube), I had fitment issues on the front passenger side that I had to resolve. The newer k-members have the mounting locations extended out in front of the tubing and there's no clearance issues with those.

Don't forget that the drive belt will need to be changed as well. Just got the one I think I need and have not installed it yet.

Without the power steering stuff in there, it really empties out the driver side of the engine bay!
 

RocketcarX

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Hey guys, Casey here. I own wireeverything.com and years ago on this forum worked out publicly the details of the swap. I doubt there is anyone who has more experience with this swap as well as being the ONLY manufacturer to make a COMPLETE standalone controller (cortex does not include a power side and neither does MMR)
Most of you are interested in the integration harness over the mode selectable standalone controller.
why the cost? It is made from Tefzel wire, Techflex F6 split loom, and motorsports grade materials along with using the actual OEM connector from the same OEM suppliers.
The second reason is I will hold your hand through the entire installation process making sure you get it right.
It does not tie in under the hood like the hack posted in the video. Ask yourself why you would want to open a critical engine harness in the engine bay when you could go right to the OBD port INSIDE the vehicle away from the elements.

Check out the tech article on wireeverything.com for more information and FAQs
 
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RocketcarX

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@Deathstang II Im with you there... I am looking into doing this mod as well but cannot justify speading $330 USD on a freaking harness. Thats nuts. Need to figure out how to use the OEM one.
I can post pictures of a stripped OEM harness so you can see what it takes to make it usable. It has sections of missing insulation and bare wire just as an opener. After that it still needs to be sized, loomed, and fused. Then you can address the CAN connection by cutting into your PCM's main connecor in the engine bay.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Just FYI, for belt, I've eliminated all 3 of the p/s pulleys, and use a 67" long belt to wrap around a/c compressor, tensioner, crank, water pump, alternator, top idler on passenger side (and back to a/c compressor).
belt is a dayco 5060670.
 

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