yes, a shuddering issue
Only on the 2011 cars..with super wide 315mm front tires, etc. Vorshlag went through all of that, they have it documented on their build thread, buried in there some where.
yes, a shuddering issue
The real coup would be finding out how to burn the FRPP programming into a run of the mill rack.
The real coup would be finding out how to burn the FRPP programming into a run of the mill rack.
For those of you wondering, I was able to successfully accomplish this project as well, and it's awesome. No write-up was necessary provided you can read some wiring diagrams, know how to splice wires, and know the information Lito has already presented here. Big thanks to Lito for pioneering the way.
Lito is the man!
For those of you wondering, I was able to successfully accomplish this project as well, and it's awesome. No write-up was necessary provided you can read some wiring diagrams, know how to splice wires, and know the information Lito has already presented here. Big thanks to Lito for pioneering the way.
I know this is expensive, don't save any weight but I just love it, is one of the best mods I've done to my car, I don't know if you feel/think the same.
What rack did you end up using?
I'm planning on making my own harness, since I am also rewiring the fan system.
Will look in the Ford pigtail catalog to see if I can get the connectors there. Otherwise can make them - machine out of phenolic/plastic material.
So coming from poly bushings to stock bushings and a 2014 rack I felt it was a little mushy. I figure adding poly bushings back to the mix will make it better, but then I'll probably need to get the FRPP rack for sure. I did this mod mostly for packaging and to get rid of drag on the motor, and the novelty of it all. That said, I'm very happy with how it turned out.
When you are going on straight line it is not a representative load, only when you turn, the hydraulic pump is a constant load even on straight line. I made about 10rwhp more with it.If the rack has a 100A fuse feeding it, what is the actual, typ current draw when in use ? You are taking a load off the engine fead by dumping the oem hydrualic system.... then placing an additional electrical load onto the alternator.... which hangs off the same fead. How much overall improvement is there ?
I used a 2014 rack. I wasn't able to find the connectors by themselves so I just bought the harness that Lito talked about in this thread. I ended up using several connectors and the battery fuses off of it so it was a good investment. Once I pulled out the wires I needed, I integrated them into my engine harness.