Discussion in 'Hardcore Tech=*MOTOR SWAPS*' started by saleen07gt, Dec 21, 2016.
Even though the 2007 a/c compressor bolts to the Coyote block, there is an alignment problem with the a/c belt. I do have the Coyote a/c compressor and it will require some custom a/c lines, I learned the hard way when it shredded the a/c belt. The pic will show the 2 compressors and the alignment difference.
Why not just buy the Power By the Hour AC bracket? It's like $60. I've been running my AC for the last 15K or miles or so with that bracket and no issues.
Thanks for the info, I just ordered the bracket, hopefully there's no issue using the F150 timing cover.
Power by the Hour a/c bracket worked, the bolts that they sent were too short so I used the originals,had to shorten them about 1/4 inch. I used the Coyote a/c transducer, wired the 3 wires to the pcm and CAN communication handled the rest. A/C works like a champ !
Ok, I officially need to do this swap. I just hate the idea of a fuel cap warning.
For your oil filter issue
You could probably use a sandwich for the oil cooler.
I used a GlowShift's Oil Filter Sandwich Adapter , it has 3 ports on the side for sending unit and oil cooler .
IIRC it was like 25 bux and does not leak , works great.
That's good to know. I recently learned that with the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter I wouldn't even need to do any grinding (the diameter of the filter is smaller).
Update on the fuel system: My Walbro fuel pump failed after a few months, so I purchased a Coyote fuel pump, fpdm and pigtail. I installed the pump into the 3V hat. The fuel pump primes normal now, gas gauge still works, ck engine light went out for the P0460 (fuel level sensor circ). I'm going to go back to a returnless setup for now until I start making some decent power.
Does anyone know what causes the fuel cap warning light? Does it have to do with the Evap equipment for the fuel tank or something like that? Or is it just a wiring difference between the 11-14 and 05-09? Any ideas?
I am strongly considering this swap on my '08 (either that or or sell the car since I recently got a newer sports car), but I can't have a fuel cap warning, as that is part of the emissions testing in Texas. I wouldn't be able to drive my car on the street anymore ... Maybe that should be an excuse to strip the car and make it a full time racecar ...
I believe if you get the 2011 -14 fuel tank and charcoal canister you would eliminate that message.While you're at it, pick up the coyote FPDM also, it will prime normal. I've been told by some that it can be eliminated in a tune and I've also been told that it cannot be eliminated in a tune
I too was getting the occasional fuel cap light coming on and I've done some investigating. There is a fuel tank pressure sensor that is part of one of the fuel vapor lines by the fuel tank. I checked my work on the wiring, and I did hook up the sensor. However, scanning live data on the PCM shows fuel tank pressure @0psi. I have not gone further testing the circuit as it does not leave a code and it has not come on in quite a while. It may be "off" in my custom tune.
I'm want the car to pass smog legally. And some of my monitors won't complete .......yet....
This input is a 0-5 volt signal, and should never read 0psi. I'm pretty sure this is what is triggering the fuel cap light.
My car never sets an evap code but I do get a Check Fuel Cap warning. The way the system is supposed to work is the purge valve near the throttle body pulls a vacuum on the vapor lines and fuel tank with vent solenoid commanded closed, the fuel tank pressure sensor reports the supposed change in volts around 2.6 and should drop to around 2 volts, if it doesn't see the volts drop the pcm turns the Check Fuel Cap message on. The tune in my car doesn't even opperate the evap system.
So I must get the fuel tank pressure sensor to function.
However, in PA, on an 07, we are allowed ONE monitor "not complete". That just may be the EVAP monitor.....
I did some more investigating on my EVAP issue. The FTP sensor is working. I actually have a leak. The canister vent solenoid is not closing for some reason. I need to double check my wiring on the solenoid. Bench tested the solenoid, and it does close when I apply power to it. Once I figure this out, I should not get a gas cap light or an "large leak detected" code.
I'm experiencing the same as you, FTP sensor reads about 2.6 volts, purge solenoid funtions but the vent solenoid never closes and is wired correctly. Either the program is designed to never control the vent solenoid or the 2011-14 vent solenoid is different. I think I tried to control the solenoid with the shop scanner but it still wouldn't opperate. It would be nice to know what the resistance is on both vent valves, maybe that would tell us if the 05-09 vent valve is compatible with the Coyote PCM.
Made progress on the evap system. I am now using the 2013 purge valve (I had the 07 purge valve hooked up before) I bought the hose for a '13 that goes from the purge valve to the hard line. It's plug& play. (connects under master cylinder). I'm 100% confident that my evap system is wired/plumed correctly, and all the components are good. Cleared the codes, and it is just a matter of driving the car and see if the PCM is satisfied.
Let me know if it works correctly, I have a make shift line in there now when I bypassed the 07 purge and used just the Coyote purge.
Not completely successful, but progress has been made. Live data shows purge working, and FTP sensor working. The idle was definitely affected as the purge valve cycled, and the PCM learning idle strategy. But my large leak code came back. It did take longer to throw the CEL than before the switch to the '13 purge valve.
But I believe it is my tune that needs to be adjusted. The FTP readings were much more sensitive with a stock tune vs the tune I run.
Yeah I can feel a change in the idle when The Purge Cycles. Hopefully a tune can be found to eliminate the fuel cap message
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