Factory one time use strut fasteners, spring replacement

eighty6gt

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1) How often, if ever are you folks who have repeatedly changed out the front struts changed the strut bolts? I've had them in and out 3 times and will be replacing the bolts this time.

2) That said, is it possible to swap the springs by loosening the strut rod nuts, lowering the control arm, compressing the strut rod, replacing the spring, and then putting stuff back in place? I'm not home right now to go look, but figured I'd throw this in here to see if anyone noticed it was possible. I know DiMora changed some springs this way but I believe he was doing the struts at the same time. Can't find the thread anyway, on any forum.
 

2013DIBGT

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I've swapped mine out a few times and replaced the factory bolts and nuts each time with new hardware. Probably overkill but I sleep better knowing no shortcuts were taken.

In terms of swapping the springs I'm not sure I fully understand your approach as written but IMO you will have to remove the strut completely in order to do the job. I think it would take longer to try and do it all without full removal.
 

csamsh

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I never replaced mine. I paint marked the bolt heads and the knuckle after torquing, and then always reused the bolts in the holes they came out of (they were numbered). The paint marks always matched up after torquing. I guess if I ever had to twist them too far to get 166ftlbs on them I would have swapped them out? IDK
 

eighty6gt

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Thanks for the bolt info, and I will just yank the entire strut/spring assembly out, was trying to save time.
 

nawagner

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Always used the same bolts and yes changed/removed springs/struts without a compressor. Keep pressure on the bottom of the spindle assembly with a jack, remove strut nut, lower the wheel/spindle assembly and the strut and spring come with. Reverse to go back in. I leave the strut mount in but that takes a little more effort to line up correctly with the spring.
 

Norm Peterson

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I've added a couple of torque cycles to all four of my '08's original strut-knuckle fasteners, to ~150 ft-lbs, without encountering any problems achieving that torque or having it maintain itself. Once for new struts and once for gaining any available clearance for new wheels & tires.

IIRC, when I installed the new struts I used a C-clamp to squeeze the strut clevises so that I'd be "wasting" as little installation torque (not developing clamping force) as reasonably achievable.

Next time they come off, there will be a set of 168 ft-lb replacements going back on in their place. And I'll be getting the C-clamp out again.


Norm
 

irishpwr46

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where do you get the replacement bolts and nuts?
 

claudermilk

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http://www.maximummotorsports.com/S...ing-hardware-kit-2005-2014-Mustang-P1360.aspx


When you torque the bolts down, put a wrench on the flag nut. By itself, the flag is not strong enough to allow you to draw the bolt up to its required torque (not even with the 148 ft-lb early bolts).


Norm

+1 (ask me how I know...)

I've reused my originals for the one time I had the struts off. I will get new ones next time. For the price at Norm's link it's just not worth penny-pinching on that slightly important connection.
 

B2B

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Minor hi-jack... Do you guys have enough room to put a torque wrench on the strut bolts (without using extensions) with the caliper/rotor still in place?
 

Mark Aubele

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Yes I have been able to. Using a deep impact socket. Don't get much movement but I haven't had any issue torquing them.
 

csamsh

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Minor hi-jack... Do you guys have enough room to put a torque wrench on the strut bolts (without using extensions) with the caliper/rotor still in place?

Yes with deep socket. Turn the wheel and you can get a better angle.
 

claudermilk

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Yes with deep socket. Turn the wheel and you can get a better angle.

This. I used a deep socket, short extension, and a big-ass cheater bar.

i-jPTV3q8-M.jpg
 

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