First time ever at track, here's what I've learned

philkilla

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And now, I'm here to learn more:


Ok, so I've been building up my car for quite sometime now. For this day out I was using a 100 octane tune from Lund himself and it pulled like crazy. On 8 psi with 93 octane the car hit 612 rwhp, I'm on 10 psi so not really sure what the power is but it felt like a substantial increase.

The temp was about 65-70 for most of the day with very strong wind gusts.

The track I was at is Green Cove Dragway, fairly new and even though it's only an 1/8th mile they have a pretty decent setup. My first few runs were pretty terrible, (started the day off with a 12.7!!) since I've never raced before, let alone EVER driven a car with slicks mounted. To say the least it was a shock to feel my car hook up and actually launch.

This is my 5th run I believe:


The biggest issue I had aside from nailing my shifts at the right time was the car kept getting VERY loose about the 330-500 ft mark. My father (he's been racing since before I was born) was spotting for me and noticed the left rear was doing the business while the right just sat still...so obviously a Posi-unit is necessary since I have the plain jane diff :(


This was my last run of the day against a crazy Ninja (note, I was more focused with test and tune than competition all day)



I managed a 1.50 60 ft which was my best of the day but they were mostly hovering around the 1.5-1.65 range for the day.

Now to points of contention: I'm researching everything I can because I want to go fast(er) and it's fun.

These are my facts and assumptions:

My pinion angle from that day was unknown, but after this foray I have set it to -1. After watching my videos I've noticed the nosedive and I'm considering upgrading to strange double adjustable front struts (http://www.jpcracing.com/strange-engineering-double-adjustable-front-struts-2005-2011-pair/) as well as different springs.

I'm shopping for posi-units but not really sure what to commit to. I've read and heard the Eaton is solid but would like some suggestions. On top of that I'm also considering a lower gear vs. the stock 3.73's I'm running now so I can actually have a usable 1st gear.

Attached is my final time slip of the day too. I know I have much MUCH to learn, but am very eager to do so.

Thanks for your time guys.
 

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NUTCASE

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good stuff.

it would of been a better idea to get passes in as the car was being built but oh well.

remeber, just play with one adjustment at a time. or else its hard to tell what is helping, and what is hurting you.


and I love how on TnT days some people taking winning so serious LOL.
 

philkilla

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Oh I agree, I wish I could have done it in phases but I deployed and bought a whipple kit. I'm stationed in alaska so my time with the car and good racing seasons is hit and miss to visit alaska. Basically subjected myself to a steep learning curve. I could have run it on 93 octane to have less power but I wanted the detonation resistance a few octane points would give me.

Oh, yah and TnT days are just that. I laughed everytime the time slip girl would say "you won...great job!"


One adjustment at a time is true and great advice; problem is I like to get carried away at times too or I'll buy so many parts and throw them on first chance I get back to the lower 48.
 

Falkinman

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Only one tire spinning during your burnout? You may have the same problem that I do, a bent axle housing. That's what caused my stock posi to fail and you've got a ton more power an much faster sixty foot times than I do
 

philkilla

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Bent axle housing huh...that would be unpleasant.

Funny you mention that though. I installed the one piece driveshaft which of course introduced an ambient NVH at certain speeds but after racing I noticed an entirely different set of sounds not unlike that of rubbing.

A shame I'm 4600 miles away from my car right now..
 

NUTCASE

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I know where you are coming from. I was in the army and on my last deployment I got well over $3000 in parts and had them all sent to my GFs house.

when I got home I went on a frenzy putting everything on. when I went to the track......I was slower. even though I went faster on the spray the car was just not what I had expected. I had not taken into account how my launch rpm, clutch slip, tire pressure, and a list of other things would change. without time to regularly test the car I am just starting to work the kinks out of my setup now, like 2 years later.

also I am interested in this bent axle thing. when I heat my tires one tire spins more than the other and when I do my rollout (I release the line lock while spinning to feel the traction point) it is obvious that one tire catches like 1.5-2 seconds later. also the rubber on my rear quarters is not equal.

I thought this was the clutches in my t-lock wearing out (almost 80k on the clock) and was preparing to do a FRPP rebuild. how do I find out if the axle is bent before doing all this other work?
 

Falkinman

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I thought it was my traction lock clutches too. Mine only has 9K miles but about 75 passes. the last 20 leaving a 6K with drag radials. You need a special jig to see if the housing is bent. Somebody else said you may be able to tell by getting a 4-wheel alignment but I haven't done that.
 

philkilla

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There's pretty nice alignment shops back home, but I'm waiting to do that until I swap the shocks/struts again.
 

Sharad

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Nice baseline pass. I agree with the idea of changing one part at a time to sneak up on the hot setup.
 

philkilla

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Nice baseline pass. I agree with the idea of changing one part at a time to sneak up on the hot setup.

Thanks. I wish I would have done a few passes with it stock...but oh well.
 

lostsoul

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-First time to the track
-only one tire moving
-1.50 sixty!










I haven't been able to crack past 2.0.. ohhh gowd why!!!!! :pissed1:
 

YoungBlood

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yeah you were movin out good on that launch! If you find it is a posi issue, you can stack the clutches in a different order when you rebuild it to get a better lock
 

philkilla

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yeah you were movin out good on that launch! If you find it is a posi issue, you can stack the clutches in a different order when you rebuild it to get a better lock

Hey thanks! I've studied my runs many times now religiously and picked up a few thing I need to improve on mentally and mechanically. My father pointed out quite a few things as well.


One of my plans for long term now is deciding between switching gears up (from 3.73 to 3.55 or 3.31). The point of contention is if I get serious with this do I want to do a 6R80 swap or not. I've been studying the relation between gear ratios of MT82's, 6R80's and the Tremec family.

The problem with the MT82 is I have so little time between launch and shifting to second it made it hard that day really lock in a good time...what with being an amateur and all. I've used a few calculators and the difference between gear ratios of the autos and manuals is 5-7 mph at my level.


I may be overthinking it (and I'm a little drunk right now) but I'm more focused on locking in suspension right now than anything else. For now I have the power to accomplish my goal(s).



EDIT: One of the most important lessons the old man taught me that day is:

It isn't as easy as it looks from the sidelines is it?

He's spent years racing since I was just a boy from doorslammers to dragsters so obviously a wealth of knowledge right there. The funny part is I left both of the heated power leather seats in just so he could give me coaching sessions post-run hahaha
 
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Falkinman

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I've got 3.73's and I wouldn't change them. You will get used to shifting. It's really not that quick into second gear.
 

philkilla

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I've got 3.73's and I wouldn't change them. You will get used to shifting. It's really not that quick into second gear.

It's a bit different with the whipple though. 1st gear doesn't last long at all.
 

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