Fore Innovations Fuel Rails on a Blown ROUSH...Interference

AutoXRacer

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Hey guys,

Anyone install Fore Innovations fuel rails on a ROUSH supercharged motor; M90, VMP 1.9L TVS, or the 2.3L TVS?

The alternator is bolted in three places, two ears and one rear mount, but using the Fore Innovations fuel rails does not allow for the L shape bracket to be installed. So the alternator would only be held by two bolts. Not sure I feel comfortable with that.

As you can see from the picture below, the L shaped bracket just barely fits between the fuel rail and the alternator...

DSC00703_zps9f7eaa45.jpg


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These are the only two bolts that would support the alternator.
I do not know how long those bolts would keep tension while banging through gears on a road course.

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Here is the LH (driver side) rail overview:

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I bought a complete kit in hopes to replace factory rails, lines, and filter.
This kit plugs into the factory line coming into the factory filter and then you just route the new hose from the new filter to the engine bay, to a y block, and then to each rail.

DSC00710_zps0b468db9.jpg


Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

BruceH

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Aluminum angle stock. There is a place in Everett that sells metals. You could also try www.onlinemetals.com Angle stock is aluminum with a 90 degree corner. Get a piece of it and cut to length, drill a few holes, and there you have it.

I have some aluminum stock in the garage. I can check to see if there is something you might be able to use. I also have some stainless that can be bent. It will be a big pain to drill without a carbide bit but it's an option.
 

AutoXRacer

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Oh I got you... I have the mount for it. Its a L shaped bracket.

The issue is the Fore Innovations fuel rails are beefier and interfere with the installation of the L shaped bracket.

I am wondering how others have installed their alternator with the Fore fuel rails and the ROUSH intake manifold.
 

BruceH

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What I'm saying is you could fabricate a custom bracket that uses a different mounting point. Maybe not with angle stock but flat stock from lowes shaped to fit would probably do it.
 

AutoXRacer

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What I'm saying is you could fabricate a custom bracket that uses a different mounting point. Maybe not with angle stock but flat stock from lowes shaped to fit would probably do it.

I need to take better pictures, the bolt hole on the back of the alternator is completely blocked by the fuel rail.

This is the only bolt hole/mounting on the backside of the alternator.
 

niner555

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Can you use a mill to trim off about 1/8"-3/16" off the end of the fuel rail?

Based on the pics, it looks like there is a bunch of material on that end. I guess it depends on how deep the threads go into the fuel rail.
 
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AndrewNagle

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Maybe you already considered it but can't you take off the fuel rail and mount the 3rd bolt with a recessed/countersunk bolt and then put the fuel rail back on ?

Also may contact Justin and ask his opinion ( if you haven't already)

Good luck
 

AutoXRacer

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No, it still won't provide enough clearance for the bolt...
I'll post a picture of the ROUSH rails with the bracket installed. The ROUSH rails prove gobs of clearance.

With the Fore rails, you can barely squeeze the L shape bracket between the alternator and fuel rail. I wish Fore made a custom driver side fuel rail that provided clearance for us ROUSH cars. :(
 

AutoXRacer

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Maybe you already considered it but can't you take off the fuel rail and mount the 3rd bolt with a recessed/countersunk bolt and then put the fuel rail back on ?

Also may contact Justin and ask his opinion ( if you haven't already)

Good luck

Something would have to give, either shave off some thickness off the bracket and the fuel rail cap...but that still would not provide enough clearance for even a counter sunk bolt. The L shaped bracket is pressed in between the fuel rail and alternator.

My choices are to keep the Fore rails and not use the rear mount for the alternator or just the stock ROUSH rails and fully support the alternator.

Lito said absolutely not to run the alternator without the third support.

I want maximum reliability... I just don't think those two bolts would be enough to support the alternator long term.

I'm really bummed. I spent a small fortune on this kit... Now its probably going to go in the classifieds... sigh
 

lito

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The thing of not running is belt tension, that third support is the one holding that.

Is not any way you could mod the rail for it to fit? Pretty sure something can be done.
 

AutoXRacer

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The thing of not running is belt tension, that third support is the one holding that.

Is not any way you could mod the rail for it to fit? Pretty sure something can be done.

The correct way to fix it would be to mill the fuel rail, basically remove all the extra material and shorten the rail maybe 0.5"...??

Even putting a recessed cap at the end does not provide enough clearance.
The bolt is heavy duty.

I guess I will just put this Fore setup up for sale. :(
I hear the ROUSH rails have supported cars to 800rwhp... I won't be anywhere near that.

I'm just bummed, wanted a cleaner fuel delivery...the stock system has so many orifices and restrictions.
 

lito

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Most of the end part of the rail is to provide thread for a connection, you can trim and weld shut.
 

AutoXRacer

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Most of the end part of the rail is to provide thread for a connection, you can trim and weld shut.

That would be an option...
I would have to take it somewhere to have that done.

I am not sure all that is worth the effort.
What do you think Lito, would this Fore setup help with fuel delivery? Would it help the fuel pumps run easier?
 

AutoXRacer

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Yes, all that makes a difference, you already got it. I would do it.

OK, well I will install the ROUSH rails for now and figure out how to modify the Fore rails to provide enough clearance. I basically need a minimum of 0.30" to clear the installed bolt and the rail will still touch the head bolt. I guess I could take off a little bit on the bolt side to lower the profile.

Total length in the Fore fuel rail is 0.671" from the side of the #1 fuel injector to the end. I guess I could take almost half that and take off 0.325".

That would provide enough clearance.

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