Fuel Rail/Injector removal

[rocky61201]

Silly question. On my high mile 227k GT I've never had reason to remove the fuel rails/injectors. I've wrenched on just about every other part of the car but that. So now I have to remove the intake manifold to fix a leaky heater coolant tube and it's gotta come off. So I've got every thing unbolted and the fuel rail w/injectors should just pop right up and off right??? I'm pulling really hard to the point I'm paranoid I might snap/crack a plastic fuel injector or bend the fuel rail.

Is this normal for a high mile engines or just the way it is for 3 valves? Any tricks for stubborn/stuck fuel injectors? I'm thinking maybe spray some type of lubricant similar to what we have to do for breaking spark plugs free? Would it be easier when the motor is hot? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Sometimes they can be stubborn. Some penetrant might help. When we did the engine in my son's 87 Olds we had to pry the rail up. But that was an aluminum intake.

Is it not possible to remove the rails with the intake?

 

[sman247]

It should just be the 2 bolts on each rail then just pull right off

 

[rocky61201]

It should just be the 2 bolts on each rail then just pull right off

Yea but it won't just pull right off. Injectors are plastic, fuel rail is thin aluminum, intake manifold is plastic and I am known for breakin shit.

I have wrenches that can access the intake manifold bolts underneath the fuel rails if need be. I'll leave the rails on if I have too. I just need to raise the intake manifold far enough to access the heater coolant tube underneath.

Just wondering if this is the norm and YES I removed the two bolts holding each rail down.

 

[bl817]

Once you have all the bolts off the intake manifold, you should be able to flip it over towards the drivers side without having to mess with taking the injectors out. there are 2 bolts (1 each side) on the inside center of manifold that are hard to see, 10 mm IIRC. if you do end up having to remove the injectors, have lots of rags handy as 1 or more may pop out of the rail and spray gas everywhere, good luck

 

[Marble]

Be prepared to replace the O rings. When putting them back in, a little silicone will let them slip right in.

 

[07 Boss]

Leave the injectors and rails on. Unhook the fuel line and then remove the manifold with the rails still on it.

 

[46addict]

Passing thought. It could be the fuel pressure itself holding the rail to the injectors. If the car was running in the last 24 hours you can try removing the rail pressure sensor on the driver's side to release some pressure. Do this at your own risk though because it opens another opportunity to break something.

I think the best answer is spraying penetrating oil.

 

[JeremyH]

Passing thought. It could be the fuel pressure itself holding the rail to the injectors. If the car was running in the last 24 hours you can try removing the rail pressure sensor on the driver's side to release some pressure. Do this at your own risk though because it opens another opportunity to break something.

I think the best answer is spraying penetrating oil.

Pressure in the rail would have the opposite effect and push the rail up off the injectors if they are unbolted.


No should not be hard to get off just wiggle and pull. You have more leverage focusing on one end first.

 

[Marble]

if the fuel is disconnected at the rail then there should not be any pressure.

It's probably just glued to the rail after years of fuel sitting on it.

Mine has been sticky every time I remove them.

 

[rocky61201]

I removed fuse 41 for the fuel pump module and ran it till it stalled so no fuel pressure to the rails preventing me from taking it off. It is just being stubborn I guess. I didn't have time to tackle it this weekend. I can get away with staying in the garage all day on fathers day, but no mothers day, lol.

 

[rocky61201]

I had some time to work on it last night, there is barely enough room to get at the coolant pipe with the alternator removed so the plan was to unbolt the coolant pipe from the back of the cylinder head and slip it back and slide a section of heater hose with worm clamps over the leaky pipe with o-ring fitting behind the water pump. Well somehow the plastic elbow on the other hose that connects to the coolant crossover snapped like a pringles potatoe chip. I'm so tired of the plastic assembly line bullshit for high temp fittings that goes thru thousands of heat cycles. You couldn't even give me a coyote for free right now to do an engine swap. My next car will be an older mustang/falcon/bronco with a WINDSOR in it!!!!!!

What really takes the cake is the clutch master cylinder under the dash with the plastic clevis that attaches to the clutch pedal. Yea that left me stranded a couple years ago. Who woulda thunk that plastic part might fail??? What's next Ford? A plastic clevis for a brake master cylinder??? Can't wait to read the lawsuits on that one.

For all the ECOBOOST owners with the hot turbos under the hood. Sell it at the end of your warranty!!!

rant over............