Has anyone gone from a manual to 5R55? If so how did it work out?

BruceH

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Title says it all. I'm toying with the idea of swapping an auto in. I'd really like to do a 6R80 but it doesn't look like that's going to be any kind of plug and play option.

My power level is low enough that a 5R55 should survive. Power is currently at 385/377 but it will probably settle at 425 or so with E85 based on previous results with it.

So, has anyone done it? If so were you able to use the manual ecu and harness? For those with 5R55 experience what would you install with it? I'm talking about what converter and other things that can only be done with the transmission out?

Use would be mostly street with a few straight line track days a year. It should be able to handle 425/425 on drag radial launches without failing right?
 

retfr8flyr

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I didn't do it, always an auto, from everything I have read on the many swaps that were done. You need an auto CPU and harness. You can go from an auto to a manual by reprogramming the CPU but to go from an manual to an auto, it needs an auto CPU.

I would go with the TCI rebuild kit and their hardened input shaft, along with their billet servos. For the converter I would highly recommend Circle D. If you are going to build one. There is a complete Level 10 setup for sale in the classifieds, if you haven't seen the add.
 

BruceH

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I didn't do it, always an auto, from everything I have read on the many swaps that were done. You need an auto CPU and harness. You can go from an auto to a manual by reprogramming the CPU but to go from an manual to an auto, it needs an auto CPU.

I would go with the TCI rebuild kit and their hardened input shaft, along with their billet servos. For the converter I would highly recommend Circle D. If you are going to build one. There is a complete Level 10 setup for sale in the classifieds, if you haven't seen the add.

Thanks Earl. I'm gathering info right now, if it ends up being too much or too tricky I'll stay with the 6060 I have right now. My mindset is more along the lines of picking up a used unit and maybe going with an aftermarket converter.

I didn't even think about the input shaft. Do you know where they start breaking (hp) with drag radial launches? That alone would be enough to make it more than my price and difficulty threshold.

Thanks again.
 

85GT 7.0

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Input Shaft

The input shaft is a simple pull it out and slide the new one in. I currently have the 5R55 completly stock with a P1SC and it has held up fine. It has 88k on it with 10k of those with the blower. It should be close to your power numbers.
 

RED09GT

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I've done a bunch of research over the past few months on the automatic options and it sounds like there are a few that have just re-flashed the manual ECU with a strategy for an auto car with the 5R55S and it worked fine. Lito would probably have the answer for us on that one.
 

Wild White Pony

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At that level I would do the input shaft, Overflow Can, PRW flexplate if you have an 8 bolt crank and good converter.
The TCI servo upgrade kit is nice and you can find Youtube videos on boring and installing the bushings which seems pretty easy.
 
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Pentalab

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I installed the performance automatic deeper pan on my 5r55s.... holds an extra 4 qts. The new pan is 20mm thick where the flange bolts. New aluminum pan is 10.5 lbs..which is triple the weight of the oem paper thin steel pan. ( new pan is 2.1" deeper vs oem). Then the locking dipstick can be used to check ATF levels..and the dipstick tube is large enough to easily add ATF if required. Also added the JDM catch can..... other wise you will end up with ATF puking all over the ground. I also added a B+M model 70268 auto tranny cooler (13 k btu) in series with the oem ford tranny cooler. New B+M was installed below the oem ford cooler. This B+M is only 3/4" thick, and is Bar + plate design. Both the B+m and the oem ford cooler are mounted between the oem eng rad....and the oem AC rad.

Old ATF sucked out, and replaced with RP max ATF. b4, while cruising, tranny temps were 170F...and would skyrocket to 200 F in just a few secs with gas mashed and blower on. Now, they barely increase by just a few degs...problem solved.

VMP provided the 5r55s tranny tune. With a blower, the shifts have to be firmer and faster. The SCT-X3 is unlocked such that I can fine tweak both the shift points on a shift by shift basis....and also the firmness, also on a shift by shift basis. The rest of the tranny is bone stock, but I only have 390 rwhp.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Lots of great info here! The TCI upgrades for input shaft and servos are excellent power-handling improvements for you. For converter, I would not get too high of a stall, as you'll encounter it's characteristics in everyday driving. For combination of street with occasional strip, a 3k stall is a good option. You could also just use a stock converter, but you won't be able to launch as well at the drag strip.

Definitely need the pcm and wiring harness. You'll also need flex plate (I have one for sale), and trans cooler and lines (I recommend the stock cooler and stock lines, as they mount nicely between the radiator and condenser up front); I never had any trans temp issues with my setup with a FMIC and blower with it.

You'll also want to get the proper brake pedal instead of having a clutch and brake. You'll cap off and remove the clutch hose from the master cylinder.

A shifter is needed, too, and an aftermarket can be made to work, or easier is a stock shifter; the body wiring should be there for it under your console.

GOOD Tuning is CRITICAL for optimum and reliable performance. The shifting will be different between part throttle and WOT, and you'll want to be able to adjust the shift points through your tuner device to fine tune your preferences.


Might sound like a lot, but it is easily doable. You'll instinctively reach for the shifter or go to push in the clutch at times, but that'll change as you get used to it.
 

Scott

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Bruce in my novice opinion at the power levels you are considering a 5R55 should be ok.

Not a manual to auto swap just a little 5R55 beef up in my build. I went with all the standard components already mentioned: PA Performance hardened input shaft and deep pan with dipstick, Canton overflow can, Circle D Specialties converter (approx. 3000 stall), TCI 3rd and 4th gear servo kits and PRW 8 bolt flex plate.









Couple things that have not been mention I drilled and tapped the pan for a temp sender and you will need the specific engine to automatic transmission spacer plate, part number 1L2Z-7007-BA.

 

lito

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Manual PCM wont work, they dont even have enough memory for an auto strategy, will also need harness.
 

BruceH

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Thanks for the replies. I'm sticking with the 6060 that's already in it. Maybe a 6R80 stand alone controller will be available at some point.
 

obsrt86

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Very interesting thread! Since I do alot of drag racing now (try to go couple times a month) I've had the idea of goin Auto. My plans with the car is staying around 350-400 hp right now. 5r55s should be able to handle those power levels, right? Even doing hard launches? Is the hp/tq drivetrain loss around the same with manual and auto?
 

swflastang05

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Very interesting thread! Since I do alot of drag racing now (try to go couple times a month) I've had the idea of goin Auto. My plans with the car is staying around 350-400 hp right now. 5r55s should be able to handle those power levels, right? Even doing hard launches? Is the hp/tq drivetrain loss around the same with manual and auto?

I would anticipate the drive line loss would be significantly more than manual, and of course depending on the quality of the stall you go with that can also have a dramatic effect.
 

Pentalab

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Very interesting thread! Since I do a lot of drag racing now (try to go couple times a month) I've had the idea of going Auto. My plans with the car is staying around 350-400 hp right now. 5r55s should be able to handle those power levels, right? Even doing hard launches? Is the hp/tq drive train loss around the same with manual and auto?

12% loss with a manual. 20% with a 5r55s auto.
 

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