if you adjusted your pinion angle, come in!

[scramblr]

He needs to and get underneath it to see if the DS is hitting something. Chances are it's rubbing with the e-brake bracket. If so, he needs to relocate the bracket. Could also be hitting the tunnel or even loose bolts. He won't know until he gets underneath and check it out.

 

[rojizostang]

& he's not saying he has vibes, but when he pushes the car hard, he can feel the shaft moves up & hits something & makes a crack noise

I had this problem. after i relocated the e brake cable bracket, the drive shaft then started rubbing a little further back in the tunnel. fixing this will require removing the drive shaft pounding the crap out of the tunnel with a big hammer...just look at the drive shaft and smash the corresponding parts on the tunnel where the shaft rubs. what you described, a loud "crack" under hard acceleration is exactly what mine was doing.

 

[oman_cobra]

i see...

anyhow, my buddy went under the car, & saw it from a better view, the DS hits the tunnel, it also has a small scartch..

but the garage whom he's dealing with suggested buying safety loops, because a previous model GT has the same problem , & it was solved by the loops..

but i agree with you rojizostang, cleaning the tunnel parts should be done first...

thanks for the input guys..

really appreciate it

 

[scramblr]

i see...

anyhow, my buddy went under the car, & saw it from a better view, the DS hits the tunnel, it also has a small scartch..

but the garage whom he's dealing with suggested buying safety loops, because a previous model GT has the same problem , & it was solved by the loops..

but i agree with you rojizostang, cleaning the tunnel parts should be done first...

thanks for the input guys..

really appreciate it

So there's not enough clearance between the DS and the tunnel and the shop suggested to put safety loops in to fix this?

 

[rojizostang]

So there's not enough clearance between the DS and the tunnel and the shop suggested to put safety loops in to fix this?

i think that's what he's saying...i think i'd find a different shop.

 

[don_w]

So there's not enough clearance between the DS and the tunnel and the shop suggested to put safety loops in to fix this?

i think that's what he's saying...i think i'd find a different shop.

+1... makes no sense to me at all. Its about like saying "change your plugs, you'll get more DS clearance". haha

 

[Lil Hucky]

I wish I onlly had a "Crack" sound...when I hit second hard (manual trans) it sounds like the whole driveline is coming through the tunnel! No good I say...3.5" DS eibach multi-pro r2 lowered pretty much all the way...apparently not a good combo! lol

 

[oman_cobra]

i didnt know where & how exactly safety loops are to be installed.. i thought they would hold on the DS moore, & make it more steady.. my bad
lol, i owned my self...
now, suggestions ?

 

[PolkThug]

Get the Sears Craftsman digital inclinometer for $30, its money WELL spent and accurate to 1/10th of a degree.

To some extent you will get more NVH with a one piece, it just doesn't have the dampening of the over-engineered stocker. An adjustable UCA makes adjusting the angle pretty simple. The face of the pinion flange should be pointing downward, try between -.5 and -1 taken directly from the face of the pinion.

 

[don_w]

i didnt know where & how exactly safety loops are to be installed.. i thought they would hold on the DS moore, & make it more steady.. my bad
lol, i owned my self...
now, suggestions ?

A driveshaft loop is only there in case the driveshaft breaks. It contains the shaft in the loop, and keeps it from flailing around under the car and doing a helluva lot of damage.

 

[terry5357]

Don't know much about d/s but is it stupid, thinking of aluminum 2 piece?? please don't flame me for ignorance. flaming for stupidity I completely understand...........and y'all know, you can't fix stupid..........lol

 

[rojizostang]

Don't know much about d/s but is it stupid, thinking of aluminum 2 piece?? please don't flame me for ignorance. flaming for stupidity I completely understand...........and y'all know, you can't fix stupid..........lol

it's not stupid imo...it was mentioned already a couple of time in this thread, or at least i think it was this thread. i don't think anybody makes a two piece alum ds for a s197. even if/when they do, it's gotta be expensive with all the engineering that's gotta go into that carrier bearing set up.

 

[ren274u]

Would this be the correct way to adjust the angle?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8FNgaNqS8s

I am gonna try this later tonight.

 

[marcspaz]

It's as easy as that... The angle finders like the ones in the video are not very much either. Found some at Lowe's for about 15 a pc...

 

[08 stang]

i had the same problem...1st u will need a digital angle finder guage...then take out the drive shaft hold the gauge flat against the end of the trans....the angle will be x...(+1)...now go to your rear end hold the gauge flat against it where your drive shaft bolts on.. that angle should be the opposite of the angle on the trans...if trans is +1 the rear end has to be minus 1....or it can be any number as long as they r the same in opposite postive and negative status,,,the ideal angle is around 2 so u need a positive 2 on one and a negative 2 on the other.

 

[08 stang]

when you get the vibration moved from 80 to 120 you r now 1/2 degree off ....this is why a digital gauge is important ...i have a coast ds ..adjustable upper, an non adjustable lower, with lower relocation brackets ..all bmr.

 

[05stroker]

when you get the vibration moved from 80 to 120 you r now 1/2 degree off ....this is why a digital gauge is important ...i have a coast ds ..adjustable upper, an non adjustable lower, with lower relocation brackets ..all bmr.

That is the exact same as mine after the addition of the relocation brackets last week and my car is smooth to 130 tested so far.

 

[tom281]

i had the same problem...1st u will need a digital angle finder guage...then take out the drive shaft hold the gauge flat against the end of the trans....the angle will be x...(+1)...now go to your rear end hold the gauge flat against it where your drive shaft bolts on.. that angle should be the opposite of the angle on the trans...if trans is +1 the rear end has to be minus 1....or it can be any number as long as they r the same in opposite postive and negative status,,,the ideal angle is around 2 so u need a positive 2 on one and a negative 2 on the other.

So if 2 is ideal, what do you do if your trans flange is at +1, or +3, etc.??

 

[bscottie]

had a vibration on mine around 80mph, added the adjustable uca, car is lowered about 1 1/4" in rear have non-adj lca's and relocation brackets, the adjustment took out most of the vibration, rebalance of tires took out a little more and then a new one piece driveshaft took care of the rest, I followed the info from this link to help set my angle, took a couple of trys but when I finally actually checked to make sure the car was level, it worked like a charm, good luck

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA _adj.htm

 

[anticubicle]

Spydershaft + Steeda Sport Springs. I've got NASTY vibration around 80mph.

Also, if I have a passenger in the car and gun it in 1st and 2nd the driveshaft will actually rub the tunnel.

I've got the Steeda Adjustable Upper and am getting the pinion angle adjusted this coming week. I will report the pinion angle they set.

Hope this fixes it.