is my timing correct? first time attempt

[isthatguy]

So before I bolt everything back up, I wanted to show some pics and make sure I have the timing done correct on my timing chain replacement.

the car does have comp cams and phaser limiters if that makes any difference, my main concern is I couldnt get the driver side mark to line up with the colored chain link - however its at 12 oclock as instructed on the instructions - would the phaser limiters be the reason for that?

 

[Mike Rousch]

Drivers side cam is WRONG

 

[lethe]

I had trouble for a while trying to get one side lined up with the colored link but i got it eventually. Keep playing with it until you get the marks lined up.

 

[dysan]

Keep the chain tensioner off when doing it and you may need a helping hand with a breaker bar to hold the cam in position but you have to have the colored link match up with the "L" on the cam sprocket.

 

[isthatguy]

Ok, so I need to turn the cam clockwise about a tooth to line them up?

My main concern was the instructions showed the phaser at 12 o'clock which is how mine is even the the colored tooth isn't lined

 

[dysan]

Yes. Crank timing gear dot at 6'oclock with both dark links lined up on that and then the dark link on the driver's side lined up with the "L" on the cam sprocket and the "R" on the passenger side cam sprocket.

Did you put billet oil pump gears in your pump while you have the timing cover off? Would be the best time to do it and a very smart thing to do since you have a power adder on the car.

 

[isthatguy]

Not billet, but I did put a new water pump in.

 

[fdjizm]

Get dat billet tho

 

[AutoXRacer]

You don't want to total your motor for a disintegrated oil pump.

 

[lethe]

Ok, so I need to turn the cam clockwise about a tooth to line them up?

My main concern was the instructions showed the phaser at 12 o'clock which is how mine is even the the colored tooth isn't lined

If i remember correctly the driver side mark actually ends up a little past 12 o'clock when the marks are lined up.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

+1...driver side is off! Must be centered over the L like the R is on the passenger side.
Otherwise it looks good.

The cams can have tension on them, and you have to turn it a little to get the links lined up, or turn the crank just a little.

 

[isthatguy]

Damn those are pricey. Anybody ever tried cryo treating the gears? I did that in my srt4 I had before.

Or maybe the 2013 gt500 oil pump?

 

[skwerl]

IMO the 2013 GT500 oil pump is fine. If Ford can put it in a 600+hp car and offer a 60K mile warranty then it's good enough for my little 3v.

 

[lethe]

The stock gears are powdered metal so i don't know how much cryo treating them would be.

 

[JeremyH]

And money well spent. Cryo is a waste imho. 2013 doesn't have billet gears either, does have a stronger billet back plate though. But the coyote guys are busting oil pump gears as well.

 

[BruceH]

And money well spent. Cryo is a waste imho. 2013 doesn't have billet gears either, does have a stronger billet back plate though. But the coyote guys are busting oil pump gears as well.

Is there a common denominator with coyote oil pump failures? Something like under drive pulleys, forced induction, built motors that aren't balanced? Thick oil, hard dumps via a two step, etc?

 

[Mystickeith50]

Bruce from the people i have known it's been blown applications with 600+hp and a lotof time bouncing off the rev limiter. I'm not sure anyone with a blown up coyote engine was foolish enough not to put the billet ones in on the rebuild.

 

[skwerl]

I've heard having the belt too tight (too close to the end of tensioner adjustment) can shock load the crank, leading to oil pump failure.

 

[one eyed willy]

I have no evidence and could be totally wrong, but I believe the old back plate was the real problem with the powdered gears, I believe it flexed and that is why the powdered gears would break....I think billet gears are still good insurance of course but I think the root of the problem is the back plate. I think ford figured it out and fixed the issue on the gt500, and like Brian said, if a 660 hp car with a warranty is safe with it, it should be good to go! Of course I did billet gears as well...but only because they were free!

Oh, yeah, your half a tooth off!

 

[BruceH]

IMO the 2013 GT500 oil pump is fine. If Ford can put it in a 600+hp car and offer a 60K mile warranty then it's good enough for my little 3v.

That's been my line of thought all along. I've always run a stock pump but I usually have a sfi rated stock size or overdrive balancer. Also always running 5w-20 and have a good balance job on the rotating assembly. The machine shop I use sends it out to a shop that does nothing but balancing.

My current motor is the only one I've done anything oil pump related to and all I did was swap a 3v pressure spring into a 13 GT500 pump.

I'm still of the opinion that underdrive pulleys, thick oil, and bad balance jobs are responsible for most of the failures. The pump gears do fail and it would suck to have it happen but it's just one of many things that can go wrong with a performance motor.

We are all taking chances for catastrophic failure when we start modifying our motors.