Something about Vegas heat, just makes you want to rip your car apart and put a fat centri on the car, so I did! This is my first build thread, so bear with me. I'm really not into doing work and taking pictures at the same time, so all I really have is pictures of the end results.. which I'll have to post at a later date since I didn't bother to upload them yet lol. I do have some technical issues with the build still but I need to use the search function and if I can't resolve my issue after a good search, I'll be seen later in the Tech forum. (stkjock would be so proud! LOL 
)
So here's the build:
Procharger D1SC Stage 2 intercooled kit (8 rib kit)
ATI Super Damper (OE Diameter)
ATI Super Damper Procharger pulley
4.00" Procharger pulley
69-5/8" 8 rib belt
50mm Procharger Red Race BOV
44mm SS Wastegate w/7psi spring (ebay special)
JPC Procharger Coolant tank
S&H Walbro 405 DIY kit w/wiring upgrade kit & PPRV delete
S&H hat to rail fuel line upgrade kit w/10 micron SS Fore filter
702GT 3/8" Manifold crossover fuel line upgrade
Demod:
Stock Intake mani > FRPP Intake mani
Stock Cams > Comp Cams 127020's
FRPP 3.73 > FRPP 4.10
First, vent. I gotta bitch about Procharger's piping and lack of taking care of business. WTF were they thinking on this one? On DS & PS where the piping goes down and up from the IC they put couplers dead center. Awesome accessability and clearance there. A straight piece and couplers with 90's top/bottom would have been more pieces but far easier to install, maintain, and less time consuming. I dread having to take those pipes out in the future. They will be welded and cut the next time around. The clearance issues with the belt are to be expected on a dedicated drive system, but damn. It was bad enough having to bend the crap out of the A/C lines to clear the piping, but then they sit 1/8-1/4" from the belt lol. And the power steering lines are caught between all that! The belt actually shaved the loom off the power steering line at some point, had to tripple strap that fatboy down. Still only tops 1/8" clearance. Fuckin seriously, add $200 to the price of the fuckin kit and send some custom A/C and Power Steering lines and re-route that shit, or give it enough slack to make decent clearance! That's really the only shit that chaps my ass about this kit though... beside the excessively loud bus fan they use for their custom shroud. Truely, that fan is 3x's louder than the blower itself. I'm thinking custom mechanical flex-fan could be in my future, it can have the few extra ponies it'd cost to drag it on the motor, or at least put straight cut gears in the blowers again so the blower can over-power the fan! LOL
Okay, /end rant.
Second. Since I decided I was going to fall to the dark side and go FI, I had to relieve the engine of a few parts. I wanted torque, didn't care so much about hp, you figure with FI the ponies will be there regardless. Torque on the other hand can be harder to come by with a centri blower. So I knew Procharger was a must, and a D1 would give me room to grow. After doing some reading on wastegated centri's, I decided I'd step the 4.25" pulley that was already on the blower down to a 4.00" pulley and throw a wastegate on. This way I could have my torque and not let it eat my stock internals too! But adding boost down low wouldn't be enough. I needed a long runner intake back on the car. I had been running the FRPP mani with Comp 127020's. Prior to the the FRPP & LT's the comp cams spun 330whp@6250/325wtq@3800. I later added the FRPP and Pypes LT's and my numbers shifted to 360whp@6600/320wtq@4900. After having taken the FRPP mani apart and checking out the guts, I saw why that manifold flows so well but doesn't provide great torque lol. The runners are extremely short and direct, with a huge air chamber capacity. It can gulp volumes of air, but doesn't promote velocity. It did extremely well for me N/A and on spray, most people don't give it enough credit. It just became a bummer for me to need to rap the motor to 5k before I could have any fun lol. The stock mani went back on as well as stock cams. The thumpr's were great cams to me. The car got shit tons of attention with those cams and they hurt some feelings on the street. Alot of hurt feelings amongst Prius owners, let me tell you, rolling up to the light next to those toyota's got me some rolled up windows and "murderer" whispers.
Third. The Procharger install. The head unit and bracket are pretty straight forward. The thing is heavy and 2 people definately make it an easy job. Figuring out the tensioner was much easier than I thought it would be. The intercooler mounting requires you to either remove or shave the 2 inside bolts of the metal bumper. It's a very clean fit, but in the future I intend to fab an air box for the intercooler. A good portion of it sits behind the metal bumper. While I'm sure it gets plenty of air, more is better lol. As I said before, the pipe layout for this kit wasn't pleasant for me. I busted my plastic clip that held my A/C lines together (not intentional, the lines slipped and flipped around as I was trying to mangle them to let the piping clear. Lots of 1/4" extentions and swivels for those couplers. Once I had all the piping in place I dry fit for where I could put the big red bov and wastegate. Both are monsterous in size. I was worried about the weight of them hanging off the piping. But the steel piping and couplings are actually pretty rigid. I ended up welding the bov where the existing proflow bypass valve would mount. The waste gate I mounted just after the bov and 80 degrees to be on the horizontal and more "in flow" with the air as it turns into the 90 degree fitting. Plus both the BOV and WG are so fat they wouldn't fit next to each other on the vertical anyway. I also welded a 1/8" NPT female bung onto the fitting before the BOV for a pressure source for the wastegate. I had considered welding this bung closer to the blower outlet, but after being anally raped by the piping nightmare of the first run down, I decided that pipe would never come out again unless absolutely required, and I didn't want to weld in the engine bay.
Jeremy had recommend siliconeintakes.com in one of his posts as a source for couplers and boost lines. Very awesome site, even better products! I got 10' of 6mm boost/vac line and a bunch of 1/8" NPT x 6mm barb fittings from them. Awesome line. That stuff is beefy, no way it will collapse. It bends tight and still keeps its diameter and doesn't kink. That said, I upped all my boost/vac fittings to 6mm (pretty close to 1/4") as many turbo guys have recommended this size for optimal BOV/WG reaction time. I'm sure I would have been fine running the standard stuff that came with the blower, but I upgraded anyway. I also got a NXS MBC off ebay. It's a home made design but it's stout. Unfortunately I haven't needed to use it so I can't comment on it's effectiveness.
Finally, the dyno. After firing up the car to make sure everything worked, it was off to see if she had a torque monster in her or not. It was 100* while we were tuning the car, so I didn't have any high expectations. Alot of waiting between passes. The car ended up making ~420whp/440wtq and saw as high as 9.5psi. We were having trouble with the cam phasers, which is something I will do a search on here for answers as well as seek input from the forum. At around 4200rpm the tune calls for the phasers to give 2.5* cam angle transitioning out to 11* by 6k/rpm. But she was pulling spark like crazy due to knock (didn't have much spark in her for the base pull) so we checked the datalog and saw the phasers were at 0* (which is called for) all the way to about 4200rpm, then they shoot straight to 17* of cam angle and sit there. We went through sensor connections, no CEL's, and the tune itself trying to figure why the phasers were swinging full tilt (I'm still using the Comp phaser limiters from running the thumpr's, so 20* is all it will give by default). To no avail. Everything was plugged in where it should be, nothing loose, no CEL's. Tuner tried having them run on just Load by itself and then torque table, no change. Finally he zero'd out the cam tables for WOT and the car made a clean pass. Unfortunately the power falls off after 5250 rpm, and the he let it sit at 15* of spark while I figure out why my phasers are fucking off. The other thing we noticed was the Wastegate. My spring is supposedly 7psi. And the wastegate does open and dumps boost at about 7psi. But when we ran the motor out to 6k/rpm I was hitting 9.5psi. A 44mm wastegate should be more than enough to dump a D1SC 4.00" pulley. I see F1 guys running 44mm wastegates with a 24psi pulley knocking it down to 16psi. Ebay spring too tight still? There's a sleeve that goes inside the bottom port and seats up to the valve. Was I supposed to remove that? Or is that what seals the WG and it's supposed to be there? Directions never said to remove it, and if you do I think the WG would leak boost by all the time, but I'm not sure? Back to the cam phaser issue. I've also noticed during normal driving the car feels sluggish, like it takes way too much pedal to accelerate normally. On the freeway it feels like the car doesn't want to cruise higher than 65. My right foot remembers how much pedal it used to take to do 80 with 4.10's. My right foot is telling me I should be doing 100mph with as much pedal as I'm giving it with 3.73's. I damn near have to go to 4th gear just to accelerate from cruising speed on the freeway. Is this phaser related? Down on power? I've been watching my right bank cam angle and actual cam angle on the livewire. Off the pedal the cams state 0* roughly, the readout fluctuates around that. As soon as I go from a stop, they swing 17* and fluctuate around there. (+/- 2 or so) I also monitor load. So in 4th gear I slowly roll into the pedal and bring the load up .30, .40, .50, .60 and the cam angle doesn't change, it stays around 17*. I would think the cams would advance back towards 0* or so for some low end grunt. By about .60 load the pedal is deep enough the BOV is starting to close and the car wants to boost, which the cams go 0* as commanded anyway and we're off to the races.
Other than that the car runs fine, no backfires or hickups. Just a slouch under normal driving, put your foot on it and she spews 400ft/lbs@3k/rpm.
I would like to say thanks to S&H, JPC, and especially Steve@Tasca. These guys represent top notch products and customer service. Also BruceH and 05stroker. I harrassed these guys with Procharger questions enough that I should have been able to build a head unit from scratch! Well, maybe exhagerating a little, but they know their shit and their information helped me make my build choices. Hopefully they'll help some more down the road.
Feel free to question, comment, and help troubleshoot! Dyno graph coming soon! (also datalogs/dyno run files available for those who want to help troubleshoot.)
Here's a few pics:
)So here's the build:
Procharger D1SC Stage 2 intercooled kit (8 rib kit)
ATI Super Damper (OE Diameter)
ATI Super Damper Procharger pulley
4.00" Procharger pulley
69-5/8" 8 rib belt
50mm Procharger Red Race BOV
44mm SS Wastegate w/7psi spring (ebay special)
JPC Procharger Coolant tank
S&H Walbro 405 DIY kit w/wiring upgrade kit & PPRV delete
S&H hat to rail fuel line upgrade kit w/10 micron SS Fore filter
702GT 3/8" Manifold crossover fuel line upgrade
Demod:
Stock Intake mani > FRPP Intake mani
Stock Cams > Comp Cams 127020's
FRPP 3.73 > FRPP 4.10
First, vent. I gotta bitch about Procharger's piping and lack of taking care of business. WTF were they thinking on this one? On DS & PS where the piping goes down and up from the IC they put couplers dead center. Awesome accessability and clearance there. A straight piece and couplers with 90's top/bottom would have been more pieces but far easier to install, maintain, and less time consuming. I dread having to take those pipes out in the future. They will be welded and cut the next time around. The clearance issues with the belt are to be expected on a dedicated drive system, but damn. It was bad enough having to bend the crap out of the A/C lines to clear the piping, but then they sit 1/8-1/4" from the belt lol. And the power steering lines are caught between all that! The belt actually shaved the loom off the power steering line at some point, had to tripple strap that fatboy down. Still only tops 1/8" clearance. Fuckin seriously, add $200 to the price of the fuckin kit and send some custom A/C and Power Steering lines and re-route that shit, or give it enough slack to make decent clearance! That's really the only shit that chaps my ass about this kit though... beside the excessively loud bus fan they use for their custom shroud. Truely, that fan is 3x's louder than the blower itself. I'm thinking custom mechanical flex-fan could be in my future, it can have the few extra ponies it'd cost to drag it on the motor, or at least put straight cut gears in the blowers again so the blower can over-power the fan! LOL
Okay, /end rant.
Second. Since I decided I was going to fall to the dark side and go FI, I had to relieve the engine of a few parts. I wanted torque, didn't care so much about hp, you figure with FI the ponies will be there regardless. Torque on the other hand can be harder to come by with a centri blower. So I knew Procharger was a must, and a D1 would give me room to grow. After doing some reading on wastegated centri's, I decided I'd step the 4.25" pulley that was already on the blower down to a 4.00" pulley and throw a wastegate on. This way I could have my torque and not let it eat my stock internals too! But adding boost down low wouldn't be enough. I needed a long runner intake back on the car. I had been running the FRPP mani with Comp 127020's. Prior to the the FRPP & LT's the comp cams spun 330whp@6250/325wtq@3800. I later added the FRPP and Pypes LT's and my numbers shifted to 360whp@6600/320wtq@4900. After having taken the FRPP mani apart and checking out the guts, I saw why that manifold flows so well but doesn't provide great torque lol. The runners are extremely short and direct, with a huge air chamber capacity. It can gulp volumes of air, but doesn't promote velocity. It did extremely well for me N/A and on spray, most people don't give it enough credit. It just became a bummer for me to need to rap the motor to 5k before I could have any fun lol. The stock mani went back on as well as stock cams. The thumpr's were great cams to me. The car got shit tons of attention with those cams and they hurt some feelings on the street. Alot of hurt feelings amongst Prius owners, let me tell you, rolling up to the light next to those toyota's got me some rolled up windows and "murderer" whispers.
Third. The Procharger install. The head unit and bracket are pretty straight forward. The thing is heavy and 2 people definately make it an easy job. Figuring out the tensioner was much easier than I thought it would be. The intercooler mounting requires you to either remove or shave the 2 inside bolts of the metal bumper. It's a very clean fit, but in the future I intend to fab an air box for the intercooler. A good portion of it sits behind the metal bumper. While I'm sure it gets plenty of air, more is better lol. As I said before, the pipe layout for this kit wasn't pleasant for me. I busted my plastic clip that held my A/C lines together (not intentional, the lines slipped and flipped around as I was trying to mangle them to let the piping clear. Lots of 1/4" extentions and swivels for those couplers. Once I had all the piping in place I dry fit for where I could put the big red bov and wastegate. Both are monsterous in size. I was worried about the weight of them hanging off the piping. But the steel piping and couplings are actually pretty rigid. I ended up welding the bov where the existing proflow bypass valve would mount. The waste gate I mounted just after the bov and 80 degrees to be on the horizontal and more "in flow" with the air as it turns into the 90 degree fitting. Plus both the BOV and WG are so fat they wouldn't fit next to each other on the vertical anyway. I also welded a 1/8" NPT female bung onto the fitting before the BOV for a pressure source for the wastegate. I had considered welding this bung closer to the blower outlet, but after being anally raped by the piping nightmare of the first run down, I decided that pipe would never come out again unless absolutely required, and I didn't want to weld in the engine bay.
Jeremy had recommend siliconeintakes.com in one of his posts as a source for couplers and boost lines. Very awesome site, even better products! I got 10' of 6mm boost/vac line and a bunch of 1/8" NPT x 6mm barb fittings from them. Awesome line. That stuff is beefy, no way it will collapse. It bends tight and still keeps its diameter and doesn't kink. That said, I upped all my boost/vac fittings to 6mm (pretty close to 1/4") as many turbo guys have recommended this size for optimal BOV/WG reaction time. I'm sure I would have been fine running the standard stuff that came with the blower, but I upgraded anyway. I also got a NXS MBC off ebay. It's a home made design but it's stout. Unfortunately I haven't needed to use it so I can't comment on it's effectiveness.
Finally, the dyno. After firing up the car to make sure everything worked, it was off to see if she had a torque monster in her or not. It was 100* while we were tuning the car, so I didn't have any high expectations. Alot of waiting between passes. The car ended up making ~420whp/440wtq and saw as high as 9.5psi. We were having trouble with the cam phasers, which is something I will do a search on here for answers as well as seek input from the forum. At around 4200rpm the tune calls for the phasers to give 2.5* cam angle transitioning out to 11* by 6k/rpm. But she was pulling spark like crazy due to knock (didn't have much spark in her for the base pull) so we checked the datalog and saw the phasers were at 0* (which is called for) all the way to about 4200rpm, then they shoot straight to 17* of cam angle and sit there. We went through sensor connections, no CEL's, and the tune itself trying to figure why the phasers were swinging full tilt (I'm still using the Comp phaser limiters from running the thumpr's, so 20* is all it will give by default). To no avail. Everything was plugged in where it should be, nothing loose, no CEL's. Tuner tried having them run on just Load by itself and then torque table, no change. Finally he zero'd out the cam tables for WOT and the car made a clean pass. Unfortunately the power falls off after 5250 rpm, and the he let it sit at 15* of spark while I figure out why my phasers are fucking off. The other thing we noticed was the Wastegate. My spring is supposedly 7psi. And the wastegate does open and dumps boost at about 7psi. But when we ran the motor out to 6k/rpm I was hitting 9.5psi. A 44mm wastegate should be more than enough to dump a D1SC 4.00" pulley. I see F1 guys running 44mm wastegates with a 24psi pulley knocking it down to 16psi. Ebay spring too tight still? There's a sleeve that goes inside the bottom port and seats up to the valve. Was I supposed to remove that? Or is that what seals the WG and it's supposed to be there? Directions never said to remove it, and if you do I think the WG would leak boost by all the time, but I'm not sure? Back to the cam phaser issue. I've also noticed during normal driving the car feels sluggish, like it takes way too much pedal to accelerate normally. On the freeway it feels like the car doesn't want to cruise higher than 65. My right foot remembers how much pedal it used to take to do 80 with 4.10's. My right foot is telling me I should be doing 100mph with as much pedal as I'm giving it with 3.73's. I damn near have to go to 4th gear just to accelerate from cruising speed on the freeway. Is this phaser related? Down on power? I've been watching my right bank cam angle and actual cam angle on the livewire. Off the pedal the cams state 0* roughly, the readout fluctuates around that. As soon as I go from a stop, they swing 17* and fluctuate around there. (+/- 2 or so) I also monitor load. So in 4th gear I slowly roll into the pedal and bring the load up .30, .40, .50, .60 and the cam angle doesn't change, it stays around 17*. I would think the cams would advance back towards 0* or so for some low end grunt. By about .60 load the pedal is deep enough the BOV is starting to close and the car wants to boost, which the cams go 0* as commanded anyway and we're off to the races.
Other than that the car runs fine, no backfires or hickups. Just a slouch under normal driving, put your foot on it and she spews 400ft/lbs@3k/rpm.
I would like to say thanks to S&H, JPC, and especially Steve@Tasca. These guys represent top notch products and customer service. Also BruceH and 05stroker. I harrassed these guys with Procharger questions enough that I should have been able to build a head unit from scratch! Well, maybe exhagerating a little, but they know their shit and their information helped me make my build choices. Hopefully they'll help some more down the road.
Feel free to question, comment, and help troubleshoot! Dyno graph coming soon! (also datalogs/dyno run files available for those who want to help troubleshoot.)
Here's a few pics:
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