Looking to get a 06 GT manual with low miles. What should I be on the look out for?

[Jomby15]

This would be my first mustang. But I've been waiting since 2005 to afford one. And now I'm ready. Please give me advice.

 

[MrBhp]

A recent carfax report is essential. It will tell you a lot. But don't rely completely on it. My car has a perfect carfax. But it was in a wreck before I bought it. I didn't catch the warning signs when I was looking at it.

When looking at a car, make sure it is clean. A little bit of dirt can hide a whole lot of problems. If you can get it on a lift, that would be great. If you don't know what to look for, bring someone along that does.

 

[skwerl]

Regardless of mileage, if I was buying an 18 year old vehicle I would immediately plan on changing all fluids. Not just oil and trans, but rear end lube, coolant, brake fluid and power steering fluid. My sister recently picked up a 2011 Ranger and we went through it and it made a huge difference in how the vehicle performed.

 

[Iceman62]

Are you set at 2005...maybe widen your search to 2005-2009, if you're looking for low mileage S197? Also, when you say "low mileage" what are you expecting (under 10K/20K/30K)? What kind of transmission (auto or manual).

In addition to above, when it comes to 14-18 yr-old ride, check the tire & suspension condition. My '09 Bullitt only had 13K miles, but tires needed replacing (hard/cracked). Also, bring a magnet & check body for rust/repair (e.g. non-metal filler (bondo). Feel how the car drives/shifts (smooth vs. rough/jerky).

FWIW, it's always good to get a professional assessment of the vehicle (e.g. professional shop/mechanic). Carfax reports can give good history, but trained ear/eyes can spot $pendy flaws. Good luck w/ your hunt & keep us updated if/when you score a sweet horse.

 

[GriffX]

Not many owners. If you drive a car several years you take better care of it.
Rear axle noise, my diff gone bad at 20k.

 

[2008_ScarlettGT]

This would be my first mustang. But I've been waiting since 2005 to afford one. And now I'm ready. Please give me advice.

If you’re looking specifically for 2006, I’d want to see if the spark plugs have been changed. The design on 2005-07 have been prone to breakage when they’re removed, especially if they haven’t been done in all these years. I believe 2008 they updated the design. There’s more knowledgeable members on here than myself that can chime in on this and correct me if I am wrong.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

This would be my first mustang. But I've been waiting since 2005 to afford one. And now I'm ready. Please give me advice.

What's your budget?
If you're set on the early S197 body style, I'd recommend you choose an '09 model for the following reasons:

1. It'll have the later one-piece spark plugs that don't break.
2. It'll have the more reliable Denso alternator.
3. Models built after May '08 will also have the redesigned fuel filler neck with a vent tube, so filling the fuel tank will be a breeze.
4. All the other TSBs that Ford issued for the earlier models were already fixed.

Things to look out for:

1. Signs of previous accident damage.
2. Water leaks into front passenger and driver footwells due to blocked cowl drains or rotted cowl cover retaining grommets.
3. Cold start engine rattle (failed timing chain tensioner, broken chain guide), ticking (seized cam follower), or knocking from the front end of valve cover (broken cam phaser). Engines with over 150k miles should have cam timing system and cam followers/lash adjusters replaced.
4. Worn tires. Uneven wear is especially a problem as that indicates misaligned wheels. This could be simply a sign of at least one worn suspension component but it could also be a sign of previous accident damage that was improperly repaired.
5. Worn brake pads & rotors.
6. Suspension clunks & squeaks due to worn bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, shock mounts, shocks/struts.
7. Perished rubbers and hoses everywhere.
8. Worn clutch disc or grinding gears due to worn synchromesh.
9. Loose or sloppy manual shifter due to worn bushings or linkages.
10. Oil, coolant, or other fluid leaks.

 

[DieHarder]

Avoid rust. Especially rear quarters just behind the doors and up front where the fender/bumper meet as well as the floors. Get it up on a lift if you can and best if you can get a mechanic/body man to look at it. Once you do get one have it rust proofed professionally. Best investment you'll ever make.

 

[brasil]

@ Dino Dino Bambino. all of the 08 Bullitts also have the newer style spark plugs i.e one piece plug

beside this I agree with your 10 Point Check up list.

 

[Samos3]

The fewer mods the better. Especially if there is a mish-mash of things. A tuned package is one thing, but a bunch of go-fast junk thrown at it may also indicate how it has been treated. Plus, you never really know how well the mods were done.
If a manual trans, has the clutch/throw out bearing/flywheel/pressure plate been changed? If so, what kind and how long ago.
And I'd never buy one with the engine light on because of gutted cats or no cats. Usually the owner will say it's no big deal and how easy it will be for you to take of it.

 

[Forty61]

I’d just echo and simplify previous comments..

- Less mods is typically better in general unless it’s someone older who has had the time/money to do them correctly and maintain them.

- Total miles is less important than the kind of driving it’s had in those miles.

- Check for water intrusion into the floor (search here, it’s common).

I’d also recommend finding a local shop that can throw it up on a lift for you to look it over. If the seller is against it then you’ve got a huge red flag off the bat. An impartial inspection makes sure you won’t be swayed by emotion.

 

[JC SSP]

Follow all the usual advice listed.

For me… it has to have clean carfax. We have a forum member that does them fast and cheap. I won’t buy a car without a clean car fax or extensive documentation on service and ownership.