Marc S build version 6.0

zquez

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Square setup ftw! Otherwise you'll be trying to tune out understeer with other components.
 

Whiskey11

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On a fully-prepped car like Marc's or Terry Fair's, you actually want more rubber in the rear.

(That's what she said.)

Irony then that Terry has been running a square 315 setup (admittedly until recently on 18x11 fronts and 18x12 rears) since early last year when he ditched 335's, or was it 345's, out back for 315's because of the god awful push his car had and couldn't get dialed out.
 

zquez

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Irony then that Terry has been running a square 315 setup (admittedly until recently on 18x11 fronts and 18x12 rears) since early last year when he ditched 335's, or was it 345's, out back for 315's because of the god awful push his car had and couldn't get dialed out.

Its simple physics that more mechanical grip in the rear is going to create an understeer condition. Whether this is the goal or not, it is reality. Perhaps with so much horsepower, it may be easier to drive with a staggered setup, but the front is always going to lose grip before the back in a turn. In my experience staggered setups are tight setups. Many professional racers like their car a little loose so that they can rotate the car easier.
 

Marc s

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The stagger is only 1" in width and that is easily overcome with spring rates and sway bar settings. I like as much front and rear tire as possible and then make adjustments as necessary. There are two reasons why I want more rear tire.

1: Increased traction and being able to accelerate harder out of 1st gear corners. With the 11.7" wide slicks that I currently use, I can't get close to exiting a 1st gear corner at full throttle.

2: Due to the rear wanting to lose traction under hard high speed braking. I'm a late braker and I want as much rear tire as I can get.

It's true that a loose car is almost always faster than a tight one. Coming from driving a championship winning Carrera, I too prefer a car on the loose side. However, this car has over twice the power of the Carrera and better weight distribution too. If nothing else, the HP and trail-braking will assist me in putting the car into understeer or oversteer at will. If the car is setup loose during zero throttle input, then the ability to trail-brake is diminished. I believe that this car won't like to be loose but we all know that a overly tight setup doesn't work either. My plan is to try and set the car as neutral as possible and then use the power as needed. If the stagger doesn't allow for a neutral chassis, I will keep adding spring rate and see what happens.

One thing is for certain, getting everything right the first time won't happen. I'm sure that I will have to play with different spring rates, shock settings, swaybar settings, and tire pressures until I figure out what the car likes and what the different tracks like. I have at my disposal, one of the leading chassis crew chiefs that has worked for a few pro teams. I plan on having him with me during private track sessions while we get everything sorted out.
 

swedensky

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In his case, I think a set of F14's is exactly what he needs. IIRC the F14's are one of the lightest wheels Forgestar makes and for his car, lighter would be far better than something that "looks" better but is heavier. The F14's are also blatantly Forgestar, something that is important to sponsors...

Congrats on the sponsors although I would stick with a square wheels/tires setup all around for a track car, but that's just me!


Makes sense, just watching the build come together and seeing the videos and news reports on it...just would be disappointing to see it on the same rims everyone else buys from American Muscle..
 

zquez

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The stagger is only 1" in width and that is easily overcome with spring rates and sway bar settings. I like as much front and rear tire as possible and then make adjustments as necessary. There are two reasons why I want more rear tire.

1: Increased traction and being able to accelerate harder out of 1st gear corners. With the 11.7" wide slicks that I currently use, I can't get close to exiting a 1st gear corner at full throttle.

2: Due to the rear wanting to lose traction under hard high speed braking. I'm a late braker and I want as much rear tire as I can get.

It's true that a loose car is almost always faster than a tight one. Coming from driving a championship winning Carrera, I too prefer a car on the loose side. However, this car has over twice the power of the Carrera and better weight distribution too. If nothing else, the HP and trail-braking will assist me in putting the car into understeer or oversteer at will. If the car is setup loose during zero throttle input, then the ability to trail-brake is diminished. I believe that this car won't like to be loose but we all know that a overly tight setup doesn't work either. My plan is to try and set the car as neutral as possible and then use the power as needed. If the stagger doesn't allow for a neutral chassis, I will keep adding spring rate and see what happens.

One thing is for certain, getting everything right the first time won't happen. I'm sure that I will have to play with different spring rates, shock settings, swaybar settings, and tire pressures until I figure out what the car likes and what the different tracks like. I have at my disposal, one of the leading chassis crew chiefs that has worked for a few pro teams. I plan on having him with me during private track sessions while we get everything sorted out.

Sounds logical. Thanks for clarifying. Looking forward to hearing the progress of your testing!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

zquez

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Makes sense, just watching the build come together and seeing the videos and news reports on it...just would be disappointing to see it on the same rims everyone else buys from American Muscle..

Agreed.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

Marc s

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Makes sense, just watching the build come together and seeing the videos and news reports on it...just would be disappointing to see it on the same rims everyone else buys from American Muscle..

I found out today that they are coming out with a new rim and they would like me to put it on my car. I hope it looks good.
 

Marc s

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Received confirmation that the custom KW coilovers actually shipped yesterday. For a baseline, I went with 570lb springs in the front and 340lb springs in the rear. Not sure if this will be where I stay in regards to spring rates, but it will be a start.

As soon as I get the coilovers installed, I can then measure backspacing so I can get the wheels ordered.

I have been working with a few designs on the wrap. however, the design team hasn't presented me with anything that I like. So far, everything has too much of a drift car look.
 

Whiskey11

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Received confirmation that the custom KW coilovers actually shipped yesterday. For a baseline, I went with 570lb springs in the front and 340lb springs in the rear. Not sure if this will be where I stay in regards to spring rates, but it will be a start.

As soon as I get the coilovers installed, I can then measure backspacing so I can get the wheels ordered.

I have been working with a few designs on the wrap. however, the design team hasn't presented me with anything that I like. So far, everything has too much of a drift car look.

Interesting spring rates. Kind of like MM's new "Grip box" for the S197 having some pretty stiff rear springs, those too have some stiff springs. I think the older FR500 race cars with coilovers at all four (rears with spring over shock) are in the 600/300 range so I'm sure with motion ratios in the rear you are still less than they are but they also only run rear bars on certain tracks.

I wish KW would explain their reasoning for the spring rates! I know MM wants "flat ride" for "ride comfort" which seems a bit ironic given the spring rates they chose.

Anyway, I look forward to your impressions on how the car performs!
 

Marc s

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I cool box showed up today!

2013-08-23_11-59-47_574_zpse3d4c093.jpg
 

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