SUHleen
forum member
Hey guys,
Just a couple of updates on my car...
As more and more stuff gets looked at, more and more stuff done wrong is found. I'm kind of posting this topic to get yours guys input on what to do about the situation.
A few little things to start off:
- Driver side rear tire, two lug bolts came off by hand, not a good side
- Driver side rear caliper is missing a shim piece (they had to supposedly replace the caliper cause it locked up)
- Nitrous lines are pretty shitty. Not just ran shitty, but they are crimped and messed up in a few locations where they ran the wire. Not only that, there is miles of extra lines, which isn't cheap, and the less line the better
- Nitrous setup all ran, but not completely hooked up
- There was a hole in the intake part that is similar to flex line sucking in unmetered air
- Never got timing numbers, torque numbers, AF numbers, or an actual boost level, just got a dyno with rwhp, nothing else
- Engine compartment, messy as fuck, even though they said they would clean it up (never did, just threw some wire loom over some wires)
- No radiator cover anymore
- Saleen grille missing screws
- I had a stereo in the back, they had to take it apart, I told them not to put it back together, but they shoved everything in the trunk on top of the board that the nos bottle was mounted on and from all the weight they piled on it, the board cracked
- The transmission was missing some screws and some needed torqued down (I think this caused the transmission to get a little messed up, not A LOT but I'm still not happy)
And the biggest issue, the tune. They told me my car was ready to go and to get picked up. Car ran fine at WOT but bogged with tip in or just cruising speeds. Had a good friend of mine that is a tuner look at the car. He said that the car was leaning out bad because there had to be a leak somewhere (found the hole on the intake, hoping that is the only one). So, Modular Depot decided that instead of trying to locate the leak, they added LOTS of extra fuel to the tune in turn causing it to run rich. So at idle, the car runs lean, and when driving, the car runs rich, it only runs DECENT at most at WOT. My friend said they should have never let the car leave their shop with a tune like that.
Those are most of the issues I know of as of right now. On to some other issues that happened while my car was there...
They told me they for some reason didn't like the way Lethal's fuel set up was and that it was incomplete (when in fact it was) and recommended I buy a GT500 setup with a dual BAP. Ok, did that per their recommendations. Well fast forward a month later (mind you after they tear apart my sound system to install the BAP), they tell me they are having issues with the BAP (no details, just "issues") and that they couldn't get a hold of another one (hard to believe, yes) and I said whatever, thats fine, I'll add it later at this point I just want my car to be running and they said it wouldn't be an issue.
Then, 3 months after my car has been there, after they supposedly took the car on numerous test drives, my tire has a bubble in it. Ok... It never had a bubble in the tire when I took the car their and I'm sure they would've noticed it while it sat there but thats fine. Luckily I had certificates through discount tire, I just ordered one and figured I'd take the old one back and get my money refunded. I told them to keep my old tire, they didn't... But wait, it gets even better... A week after they tell me about the bubble they said Sear's told them there is a crack in one of the rims. MD refused to do anymore driveability tuning. First a bubble in the tire, then a cracked rim? Sounds to me like one of them hit a pot hole and don't want to fess up to it....
Also, I paid $89 for them to "fab" a bracket that looks like it took two seconds and looks like its made out of a tin can. Paid $133.50 for an intercooler pump bracket that is made from the same stuff. I paid $89 to them because they didn't know what size belt to use and supposedly they had to test fit a bunch, you guys should know what size belt to use I shouldn't have to pay $89 for that. I had to pay $40 for exhaust compatibility research because they bought the wrong mid pipe for my headers and tried to use the one set I had and they said it wouldn't work (even though I was paying for the installation already for this stuff).
And the icing on the cake. The total on the last invoice was $8,403.62. Minus my payments it came out to something like 3103 and some change for what I owed. When I got there, they said my balance was $4047.66, about $1k over. I complained and told him this isnt right. He said their balances always show off (and he said that from the beginning so I believed him) but then I added everything on the invoice up, one by one, and came up with $3103 of what I owed. He crunched some numbers for about an hour while I waited and said ok the $4047 was wrong its $3600 or something like that. And I told him I'm not paying a penny over what I think I owe. I told him to add everything up, subtract my payments, and see what you get. After almost two hours of bickering back and forth they let me take my car and I paid the $3103, but they tried to get me for more.
Of that $8,403.62, $5139 was for labor charges. Over the phone I had an estimate of about $3500 for all the labor total and in writing I have a rough estimate of labor for $2607 (without the labor for the fuel system). Mind you a few things needed replaced and a few things were added, but not ~$2000 worth of labor.
Sorry for the long read but I'd like some input on what to do. I'd rather not go to MD again, I didn't like how I was treated and I'm not happy at all with the work I received. I've had a bad day today and got a lot on my mind so this is all I can think of for the time being. I attached a pic to show you what the engine bay looks like.
I'm hoping someone from MD sees this and get some explanation for some things. I've only put a few hundred miles since I got the car back in fear of messing something up.
Just a couple of updates on my car...
As more and more stuff gets looked at, more and more stuff done wrong is found. I'm kind of posting this topic to get yours guys input on what to do about the situation.
A few little things to start off:
- Driver side rear tire, two lug bolts came off by hand, not a good side
- Driver side rear caliper is missing a shim piece (they had to supposedly replace the caliper cause it locked up)
- Nitrous lines are pretty shitty. Not just ran shitty, but they are crimped and messed up in a few locations where they ran the wire. Not only that, there is miles of extra lines, which isn't cheap, and the less line the better
- Nitrous setup all ran, but not completely hooked up
- There was a hole in the intake part that is similar to flex line sucking in unmetered air
- Never got timing numbers, torque numbers, AF numbers, or an actual boost level, just got a dyno with rwhp, nothing else
- Engine compartment, messy as fuck, even though they said they would clean it up (never did, just threw some wire loom over some wires)
- No radiator cover anymore
- Saleen grille missing screws
- I had a stereo in the back, they had to take it apart, I told them not to put it back together, but they shoved everything in the trunk on top of the board that the nos bottle was mounted on and from all the weight they piled on it, the board cracked
- The transmission was missing some screws and some needed torqued down (I think this caused the transmission to get a little messed up, not A LOT but I'm still not happy)
And the biggest issue, the tune. They told me my car was ready to go and to get picked up. Car ran fine at WOT but bogged with tip in or just cruising speeds. Had a good friend of mine that is a tuner look at the car. He said that the car was leaning out bad because there had to be a leak somewhere (found the hole on the intake, hoping that is the only one). So, Modular Depot decided that instead of trying to locate the leak, they added LOTS of extra fuel to the tune in turn causing it to run rich. So at idle, the car runs lean, and when driving, the car runs rich, it only runs DECENT at most at WOT. My friend said they should have never let the car leave their shop with a tune like that.
Those are most of the issues I know of as of right now. On to some other issues that happened while my car was there...
They told me they for some reason didn't like the way Lethal's fuel set up was and that it was incomplete (when in fact it was) and recommended I buy a GT500 setup with a dual BAP. Ok, did that per their recommendations. Well fast forward a month later (mind you after they tear apart my sound system to install the BAP), they tell me they are having issues with the BAP (no details, just "issues") and that they couldn't get a hold of another one (hard to believe, yes) and I said whatever, thats fine, I'll add it later at this point I just want my car to be running and they said it wouldn't be an issue.
Then, 3 months after my car has been there, after they supposedly took the car on numerous test drives, my tire has a bubble in it. Ok... It never had a bubble in the tire when I took the car their and I'm sure they would've noticed it while it sat there but thats fine. Luckily I had certificates through discount tire, I just ordered one and figured I'd take the old one back and get my money refunded. I told them to keep my old tire, they didn't... But wait, it gets even better... A week after they tell me about the bubble they said Sear's told them there is a crack in one of the rims. MD refused to do anymore driveability tuning. First a bubble in the tire, then a cracked rim? Sounds to me like one of them hit a pot hole and don't want to fess up to it....
Also, I paid $89 for them to "fab" a bracket that looks like it took two seconds and looks like its made out of a tin can. Paid $133.50 for an intercooler pump bracket that is made from the same stuff. I paid $89 to them because they didn't know what size belt to use and supposedly they had to test fit a bunch, you guys should know what size belt to use I shouldn't have to pay $89 for that. I had to pay $40 for exhaust compatibility research because they bought the wrong mid pipe for my headers and tried to use the one set I had and they said it wouldn't work (even though I was paying for the installation already for this stuff).
And the icing on the cake. The total on the last invoice was $8,403.62. Minus my payments it came out to something like 3103 and some change for what I owed. When I got there, they said my balance was $4047.66, about $1k over. I complained and told him this isnt right. He said their balances always show off (and he said that from the beginning so I believed him) but then I added everything on the invoice up, one by one, and came up with $3103 of what I owed. He crunched some numbers for about an hour while I waited and said ok the $4047 was wrong its $3600 or something like that. And I told him I'm not paying a penny over what I think I owe. I told him to add everything up, subtract my payments, and see what you get. After almost two hours of bickering back and forth they let me take my car and I paid the $3103, but they tried to get me for more.
Of that $8,403.62, $5139 was for labor charges. Over the phone I had an estimate of about $3500 for all the labor total and in writing I have a rough estimate of labor for $2607 (without the labor for the fuel system). Mind you a few things needed replaced and a few things were added, but not ~$2000 worth of labor.
Sorry for the long read but I'd like some input on what to do. I'd rather not go to MD again, I didn't like how I was treated and I'm not happy at all with the work I received. I've had a bad day today and got a lot on my mind so this is all I can think of for the time being. I attached a pic to show you what the engine bay looks like.
I'm hoping someone from MD sees this and get some explanation for some things. I've only put a few hundred miles since I got the car back in fear of messing something up.
to you man. 
