NastyStang's Computer Build!

[NastyStang113]

LOL nevermind...

 

[BlackSunshine]

I started building this thing and I'm done except for some wiring. I can't figure out the 8 pin ATX power cable. I don't think I've got a cable that will connect to the power supply & the motherboard...?

You've probably figured this out already but if not, the 8 Pin should be two 4 pin molexes on the same rail that can either be connected or disconected to run in either 4 or 8 pin configuration.

 

[NastyStang113]

You've probably figured this out already but if not, the 8 Pin should be two 4 pin molexes on the same rail that can either be connected or disconected to run in either 4 or 8 pin configuration.

I finally figured it out. I didn't even think about it. I'm guessing they split it for better wire routing, easier to move a four pin connector than a 8 pin connector.

 

[NastyStang113]

I wanted to take more pictures along the way including unboxing, etc but it never works out that way for me. I just wanted to dig in! LOL. Anyways, I'm pretty much done. I just need to get some 3.5" to 5.25" adapters for a card reader and the 3.0 USBs for the drive bays. Need to boot it still and load OS. Since the case is so big I'm putting it on the floor but decided to build a stand that is 3" tall to get it off the ground a little bit.

 

[NastyStang113]

Arggghghhh!H!h1hh!

I went to hook up the power supply, flip the power supply on, no LEDs. WHAT!? So I mess with it for the next couple of hours trying all sorts of stuff. I actually took it all down and removed the CPU to make sure the motherboard was fine. So I put it all back together and decide to open up my other PC to use the power supply from it. So I hook up only the 24 pin and 8 pin power connectors, voila power to the motherboard. So I remove the power supply and decide to try something else out. The 24 pin power cable also has a 8 pin connector on that end. So I hooked that up instead of the 24 pin plus the other 8 pin and it lights up the LEDs. So what does this mean? The 24 pin connector is bad or what? I'd like to know for sure because if so I'll go try to get one if possible...

 

[BlackSunshine]

Arggghghhh!H!h1hh!

I went to hook up the power supply, flip the power supply on, no LEDs. WHAT!? So I mess with it for the next couple of hours trying all sorts of stuff. I actually took it all down and removed the CPU to make sure the motherboard was fine. So I put it all back together and decide to open up my other PC to use the power supply from it. So I hook up only the 24 pin and 8 pin power connectors, voila power to the motherboard. So I remove the power supply and decide to try something else out. The 24 pin power cable also has a 8 pin connector on that end. So I hooked that up instead of the 24 pin plus the other 8 pin and it lights up the LEDs. So what does this mean? The 24 pin connector is bad or what? I'd like to know for sure because if so I'll go try to get one if possible...

I would have to go look at my Corsair 850, but if i'm not mistaken, the 24 Pin and 8 pin should be on the same rail. Are you hooking up the 24 Pin and using the same 8 pin molex on that rail for the other connection?

 

[NastyStang113]

Posted this earlier on another forum but not here.

Okay weird. The power cable has a 24 pin connector > motherboard. The other end has a 18 pin connector + 10 pin connector. Before I was just plugging in the 18 pin connector. A buddy came over to help me and found out I was doing that and needed to be plugging in both. BUT! The cable was ALSO ended up being bad, luckily he brought a bunch of Corsair cables with him so it's good now.

As of right now it's assembled, Windows 7 Professional x86 is loaded and I'm getting ready to transfer anything I need to my external HD and begin arranging my desk. After that I'll start loading up the new computer with programs.

 

[BlackSunshine]

Posted this earlier on another forum but not here.

Okay weird. The power cable has a 24 pin connector > motherboard. The other end has a 18 pin connector + 10 pin connector. Before I was just plugging in the 18 pin connector. A buddy came over to help me and found out I was doing that and needed to be plugging in both. BUT! The cable was ALSO ended up being bad, luckily he brought a bunch of Corsair cables with him so it's good now.

As of right now it's assembled, Windows 7 Professional x86 is loaded and I'm getting ready to transfer anything I need to my external HD and begin arranging my desk. After that I'll start loading up the new computer with programs.

 

[NastyStang113]

Oops meant Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit.

 

[NastyStang113]

 

[BlackSunshine]

Nice. Looks good man, congratz on getting it sorted. At least your case fans are fairly dim. My case lights up my room LMAO.

 

[Ch4r1ie]

Very nice, but you need a bigger screen to go with that baby!

 

[NastyStang113]

Thanks. Still have a weird issue with the MOBO but I sent an email to tech support hopefully they can help me remedy it in BIOS.

Very nice, but you need a bigger screen to go with that baby!

I think it's just the fact that the case dwarfs it. It's a 24" screen. LOL

 

[NastyStang113]

I've been trying to get my system to 4.5mhz for the past few hours. I used all of the settings from the guide over at 'clunk' only playing around with the voltage trying to get it stable. I just keep getting the same 124 error every single time. I've added in increments of .005 and gone from 1.230 - 1.300. Sometimes it would be stable enough to load O/S but only to crash during Prime95.

I ended up just trying to change it back to Offset and see what happens. O/S loaded right up and watching from CPU-Z, the voltage went from 1.290 all the way up to 1.344, really not sure if that's relevant or not considering the setting. Not sure where to go from here. Running at 4.0mhz using the with zero issues, only using the 'auto' CPU voltage, Prime95 went for hours without any errors. It's running 1.165v at essentially idle.

I decided to just see what Suite II's auto tuning would do. So I selected performance, rather than extreme, and let it do it's thing. It's overclocked to 4.4mhz using a bus speed of 103mhz and obviously a multiplier of 43. Core voltage is 1.280 at idle.

Sure it's close to my goal of 4.5mhz but I'm really just more interested in finding out why this is happening. My goal was basically only to be able to learn to do it, etc.

System:

CPU - i7 2600K

Motherboard - ASUS P8P67 Deluxe 3.0

Memory - Corsair Vengeance LP 16Ggb 1600mhz

Power Supply - Corsair Pro Series Gold AX750

Graphics - Radeon XFX 6950

Case And Cooling - NZXT Phantom (6 Fans) + Noctua NH-U9B SE2

O/S: Windows 7 Professional x64

BIOS:

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
BCLK/PEG Frequency - 100
Turbo Ratio:
By All Cores (Can Adjust In OS) - 45
Memory Frequency - Auto
CAS Latency - 9
RAS to CAS Delay - 9
RAS Pre Time - 9
RAS ACT Time - 24
DRAM Command Mode - 1T
CPU Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU Manual Voltage - 1.240v-1.300v
DRAM Voltage - 1.5v
Internal PLL Overvoltage - Disabled
EPU Power Savings - Disabled
Load Line Calib. - Auto
VRM Frequency - Auto
VRM Spread Spectrum - Disabled
Phase Control - Standard
Duty Control - T.Probe
CPU Current Capability - 100%
VCCSA Voltage - Auto
VCCIO Voltage - Auto

 

[skwerl]

 

[NastyStang113]

Thanks for the help?

 

[dascoyne]

Monitor? Get the biggest, baddest you can afford. I have a large Eizo that looks amazing.

 

[VTXFrank]

Thanks for the help?

When overclocking, are you disabling all CPU throttling settings? Also, you need to set a given CPU voltage and a given RAM voltage. Don't let them auto set. Make sure your ram timings are manually set as well.

Set everything back to standard settings. Then, set the CPU and RAM voltages manually. Set the CPU Voltage to it's stock, low voltage. On the CPU, step up the overclock by 50mhz initially, making sure to keep your RAM within operating specs by using the dividers. Slight over or under clocking of the ram, 100-200MHz under or 100MHz over, is fine for right now. If your CPU settings moves the ram to 300MHz under factory spec, that's OK too, for now, until you figure out your maximum O/C.

Once you can no longer boot up, add .025v to the CPU. See if it will boot. If it does, then run Prime95 for 10 minutes to see if you get an immediate error. If you do, increase CPU voltage a small amount and try again. Of course, always monitor temps. Each time you re-boot, go immediately into the BIOS and look at the hardware monitoring screen. Make sure the CPU is at least 10°C under your determined max. Tcase is 72.6° for this CPU, so that means auto protection will probably step in around 100°C. This means a safe, sustained maximum temp of 68-72°C under Prime. Personally, I wouldn't go higher than 65°C for longevity, but that's just me.

The goal is to get the highest overclock at the lowest voltage. If you can get 4.4GHz at 1.275, but it takes 1.325 to get 4.5GHz, I would stay at 4.4GHz. At any point where you have to add .5v to get to the next level of performance, I stop there. If I end up going from 1.20 to 1.425, the max voltage I'd personally run through that CPU, over the course of overclocking, that's fine. But if I have to make a .5v increase just for another 100-200MHz, it isn't worth it.

Then, you also have to worry about chipset voltages. The faster you pump data through the CPU, the harder the chipset has to work. It may also require higher voltages which means you need to monitor those temps as well.

I found this guide for overclocking on your motherboard. Listen to these guys. They know their shit.

 

[Seer]

hmm, I have my i7 2600k running at 5.0 ghz at 1.35v

I'd follow the guide on the hardforums, I have a similar asus motherboard as you.

 

[NastyStang113]

Just ran 4.7ghz in Prime95 using all of those settings and lasted 3 minutes before freezing. I got a 124 error upon reboot.

Seer that seems like an awfully low voltage to achieve 5.0ghz.