Need help with clutch install

TheKurgan

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Well shit.... I must have been tired of looking by the time I decided on McLeod then, I was originally looking at spec, and seemed like everywhere I looked, it was bad bad bad... and seemed like within a lot of that was mcleod being praised as the replacement...

What kind of problems are people having with them?

Can I derail this thread any further???


Gotta put in your time searching/reading but you'll find them. Most of the problems are with the RST. Here's a random one I found searching...

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42403&highlight=mcleod
 

jmn444

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Thanks! I remember reading that one about the flywheel issues, glad you reminded me though, I will likely just get a mcleod flywheel to match... but maybe it's worth the $200 to just get the rxt then too, i dunno...
 

1fastpony

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I find it weird that the dowel pins that came with it don't have a spot. I was tossing all the bosses and found the dowel pins and realized that no matter how you turn the clutch to mate on the flywheel they don't have a hole exposed.

Anyone else no use the dowel pins I don't see there purpose other than alignment if they had a valid hole.
don't feel like your the first or be the last to get bad parts from spec. My clutch didn't come with dowels but the OE dowels wouldn't even fit through the p/p holes. I might of mentioned it earlier in the thread. The customer service tech told me they use the same p/p cast for many different makes and models. That last 6 years I have heard, witnessed all kinds of bad results on spec but the spec 3+ was eventually designed and fit for the s197 because all the bad shit from the spec 2-3. Supposenly, spec got all their productiion and desgn shit together but I havn't seen it yet. All the old spec guys swear by them but that was on different models and makes. Sure they'll hold power, the problem is when you goto shifting then they take a dump on you. If you havn't screewd your spec3+ up during install you should be ok.
 

shifter87

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Research

Well shit.... I must have been tired of looking by the time I decided on McLeod then, I was originally looking at spec, and seemed like everywhere I looked, it was bad bad bad... and seemed like within a lot of that was mcleod being praised as the replacement...

What kind of problems are people having with them?

Can I derail this thread any further???

When I researched clutches I steered clear of Ram 1 because of numerous complaints and 2 because the HP/TQ rating I needed was only available in twin disk ($1200+).

When I looked at spec some people hated the regular models stage 3,4,5 but the + models seemed to be liked by the masses compared to others because it does not have the puck style design which makes it extreamly harsh.

Dude I could care less about that thread jacking crap these guys have done it and have answers use it hell we need all the info and input we can get about our cars or a big purchase like a clutch, I would be pissed if the almost $500 I spent was for nothing.
 

shifter87

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Lame my fault on this one.

don't feel like your the first or be the last to get bad parts from spec. My clutch didn't come with dowels but the OE dowels wouldn't even fit through the p/p holes. I might of mentioned it earlier in the thread. The customer service tech told me they use the same p/p cast for many different makes and models. That last 6 years I have heard, witnessed all kinds of bad results on spec but the spec 3+ was eventually designed and fit for the s197 because all the bad shit from the spec 2-3. Supposenly, spec got all their productiion and desgn shit together but I havn't seen it yet. All the old spec guys swear by them but that was on different models and makes. Sure they'll hold power, the problem is when you goto shifting then they take a dump on you. If you havn't screewd your spec3+ up during install you should be ok.

Yeah I wrote this earlier but did not post it, I looked on the net for the dowels not being there or things not lining up I got worried and then when I found them and took off the clutch installed them it did match needly to say I was a little pissed off and where the next few lines come in.
:thud::pissed1:
The pins were there for me they were just in a little bag that I didn't notice at first. I had them in the wrong holes when I moved them to what I thought was a threaded hole bad light or something it lined rights up, I earned my dumb ass card on this one. Installing the turbo didn't have me this disappointed or confused but hey live and you learn right.

Since my major delay going to drop the K member now and get the input shaft though the clutch and take my ass to bed have to be up at 0450.
 

Wades GT

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Yeah I wrote this earlier but did not post it, I looked on the net for the dowels not being there or things not lining up I got worried and then when I found them and took off the clutch installed them it did match needly to say I was a little pissed off and where the next few lines come in.
:thud::pissed1:
The pins were there for me they were just in a little bag that I didn't notice at first. I had them in the wrong holes when I moved them to what I thought was a threaded hole bad light or something it lined rights up, I earned my dumb ass card on this one. Installing the turbo didn't have me this disappointed or confused but hey live and you learn right.

Since my major delay going to drop the K member now and get the input shaft though the clutch and take my ass to bed have to be up at 0450.

My clutch install was a bitch, and that stupid clip that holds the line in and those 2 worthless ears on the bell housing should die. Now I just have to finish bleeding my clutch and I will be happy again. Hopefully you get yours back together soon.
 

RRRoamer

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Damn.... I've done clutches before, and pretty sure I'll need one SOON in the '07... But this is making me re-think my normal DIY attitude!

It's not that big of a deal. The OP has had a bit more problems than normal, but I sure wouldn't assume that was "normal". When I installed my RST this summer, I had more trouble getting it all out than I did putting the new clutch in and bolting it all back together. Sometimes it goes your way, sometimes the way rolls your ass over.
 

1fastpony

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My clutch install was a bitch, and that stupid clip that holds the line in and those 2 worthless ears on the bell housing should die.
LOL,
I call them ears Pig ears. Just a big pain in the arse, but if on a lift things are so easier. As for the clips...get the steel braided line. It not only helps out in the cltuch pedal force to CSC, but you can drop the tranny and then pop the hydraulic line off instead of having to deal with trying to pull it off and install it with so little room between bellhousing and tunnel.
 

shifter87

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My clutch install was a bitch, and that stupid clip that holds the line in and those 2 worthless ears on the bell housing should die. Now I just have to finish bleeding my clutch and I will be happy again. Hopefully you get yours back together soon.

I took the recommendations and cut them off so in my case they
are dead:chainsaw: it wasn't quite this special but you get the idea nothing a reciprocating saw can't fix.
 

shifter87

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Okay I had a really bad thing happen when I was installing the trans, a wire harness connector got stuck between the top of the trans and the motor and I didn;t notice until I was on the last bolt of the trans (top passenger side) I had already installed the the driveshaft turbo pipe etc.................................can you say kick in the dick.

Well in the end it was my fault for not making sure it was out of the way but hey shit happens.

I installed everything back up in about 2 hours after I got the connector out seeing that I had plenty of time to figure out the best ways to get to and tighten bolts.

After a drive I must say it feels like stock with really no break in miles at all, mind you that stock for me was a little harder to push because the stock clutch had 40K on it and was ran with both a nitrous and turbo car.

I cant say anything bad about the spec clutch or flywheel as many people said most problems are user error and I had plenty of it to go around.

And just FYI it didn't really take this long to get it up in running and should only take about a day or two at home on jack stands but I was finishing a class when I started and then was getting ready to deploy and worried more about spending time with family and friends.

Good luck to any who do this install and I can say I recommend the Spec stage 3+ and billet steel flywheel.
 

Anthony05GT

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On a non turbo car it should take 5 or so hours to do a clutch laying on your back figuring removing the mid pipe, swapping out TB and pilot brg. That's one guy staying on it and not fucking around. The guys on the race track that do this constantly do it quicker.
 

shifter87

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Very true, I am adding in bullshit and beer two of man's natural necessities. Trackside professional mechanics can do it in 2 hours which is crazy.
 

Anthony05GT

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There's a particular job we do in my industry that typically takes 3-4 hours and I've got it down to 30-40 minutes. I always have to explain to other techs in detail how it's done before they believe me. You do something enough it really speeds things up and you figure out short cuts to save time.
 

Redrocket06

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Shifter87, or anybody else... Did y'all notice if the bolt threads that are in the engine block for the transmission mounting where a little rolled? My transmission hasn't been out before I removed it and I had to chase all but the top 2 threads and bolts to prevent them from binding and stripping on the next removal. Looks like they were over tightened in the factory. I had to back them out real slow and use penetrating oil to get them out.
 

BruceH

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Shifter87, or anybody else... Did y'all notice if the bolt threads that are in the engine block for the transmission mounting where a little rolled? My transmission hasn't been out before I removed it and I had to chase all but the top 2 threads and bolts to prevent them from binding and stripping on the next removal. Looks like they were over tightened in the factory. I had to back them out real slow and use penetrating oil to get them out.

No, mine were fine.
 

shifter87

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not really

Shifter87, or anybody else... Did y'all notice if the bolt threads that are in the engine block for the transmission mounting where a little rolled? My transmission hasn't been out before I removed it and I had to chase all but the top 2 threads and bolts to prevent them from binding and stripping on the next removal. Looks like they were over tightened in the factory. I had to back them out real slow and use penetrating oil to get them out.

No mine were fine and i had to remove the trans twice a little ruff going in the second time but only because it wasnt lined up just tight after i adjusted things they went in smoothly.

Now that I am deployed i hope my wife can finish the break in smoothly as well she's got about 450 miles
 

HEAVYGT

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I went Spec 2+ and a steel flywheel and haven't had a problem in over 3 years and I beat on this car everyday i drive it...

DSC01844.jpg
 

jmn444

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Well, I just ordered a Exedy 500... looks like I'll be cussing at my car soon enough!
 

shifter87

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Yes you will just take it slow and make sure you do it write the first time. I had to take it back out becuase the wire I mentioned earlier in the thread trust me you don't want to make that mistake.
 

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