golkhl
forum member
By chance, does your car have an aftermarket remote start? If yes, remove/unplug it, and see if there is any change.
Ok. Now this is where you will need a copy of the ignition wiring diagram for your car as it will tell you what is the specific wire color of this wire (some will also give the size of the wire as well....I think this particular wire is either 10ga or 12ga so it's not a small wire) and the routing of it somewhat to the input side of the ignition switch. But this is also where you need to start from the beginning (where the power source starts which is under the BEC itself at the #68 fuse position) then trace it all the way thru until you find the open (break) in the wire or verify it to be good all the way to the ignition switch connector.Quick update, I just put in the new ignition switch I had and nothing has changed. I figured since I had it that I might as well throw it in. So I guess that confirms its not the switch itself... It was an OEM switch so I am confident that the one I just put in is ok by the way. So now I need to find the open. How do I go about finding the wire? Do I probe the connector that plugs into the ignition switch (connector coming from the harness)
Ah, I missed reading your last sentence of this post of yours...………………my bad……….Quick update, I just put in the new ignition switch I had and nothing has changed. I figured since I had it that I might as well throw it in. So I guess that confirms its not the switch itself... It was an OEM switch so I am confident that the one I just put in is ok by the way. So now I need to find the open. How do I go about finding the wire? Do I probe the connector that plugs into the ignition switch (connector coming from the harness)
Excert of some instructions to test while ignition switch was out that I had provided cut from my post #33...…………………….You finding the #68 fuse blown earlier is indicating that there was a problem in this circuit somewhere. You should be able to test this by removing the ignition switch from it's connector then using your test light connected to ground probe each terminal in the ignition switch connector until you find 1 that lights up.....that 1 will be the +12v input from the #68 fuse & will verify that the wiring is good. If you don't light up on any of the ignition switch connector terminals then you'll need to find the break in the wiring between the #68 fuse & the ignition switch connector (which could have caused the fuse to blow if exposed wiring came into contact w\ a ground). Then using your DVOM set up in continuity locate the terminal on the ignition switch that will plug into the +12v connector & attach 1 test lead to it then turn the key in switch to the run position then using the other test lead test the other terminals on the switch to see if you get a continuity signal (the beep) thru them then also test for continuity to ground by touching the test lead to the switch body to see if you get a beep as well (checking for a potentially shorted switch which could also blow the fuse).
Those 4 bolts attach the connectors to the fuse panel ONLY.Once my DVOM comes in I'm going to go through everything you put on here. Also, I want to mention that when this first happened that I did attempt to remove (with the battery disconnected) the BEC but I couldn't get it out. I loosened the top four bolts and disconnected the wire that is bolted to the side of it. Those bolts wouldn't come out and it freaked me out so I put it back together and haven't touched it since because I didn't want to damage anything. I also had the clips on the side of the box unclipped and I could move it around but I couldn't flip it over and look at it. Is there anything I missed do you think?
Those 4 bolts attach the connectors to the fuse panel ONLY.
You need to release two tabs one in front one in rear (by that battery cable you disconnected to separate the panel from the BEC bottom tray.
Ah, I missed reading your last sentence of this post of yours...………………my bad……….
Excert of some instructions to test while ignition switch was out that I had provided cut from my post #33...…………………….
If my logic is good, the +12v input terminal in the ignition switch connector\on the ignition switch should be larger than all the rest since it is carrying a potential max of 20A current so it should be visably noticeable from all the others...…..at least I'm thinking that it would be. I haven't visually looked at this myself on any S197's due to never having this issue w\ my '09 Stang…...yet. Thus why I said "my logic". Going off of past experiences looking at a few older GM\Ford ignition switches\wiring connections back in the day...……..
Hope this helps.
Glad you finally got it all sorted out...….Yes, I was putting this off for a while. I just got a refund for the DVOM cause I never got it… anyways I didn't want to ruin anything in the fusebox because I seriously could not fully get it off to where I could see underneath it. So I took it (had it towed) to a local hot rod shop and they fixed it. I wanted to take it to my tuner/shop that I trust but they are three hours away and I was in a pinch for money because of this COVID shit and tow for that would have been expensive. Regardless, the guy said that I was missing a fuse… I know I wasn't because like I said in my first post, I pulled the car in and never opened the hood between the time that I got those codes and when the no crank no start happened. Regardless it took him three hours to figure out that apparently, I did not have a “power distribution fuse” even though I knew that I had all the fuses I needed. He couldn't even give me a number for the fuse. Sounds sketchy as hell but the car is fixed and I'm never going back there. Now that things are opening up more work is coming into my job and I have a rainy day fund started so if some shit like this happens again I'll be covered. I appreciate the help and advice everyone gave me on here because I did learn a thing or two.