Oil pump failure

ryanmc92000

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Idk what ill be going with yet, consensus seems to be split, saying go all steel, some say oem with the felpro gaskets are great.
 

ryanmc92000

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Thats probably the route ill go since they come with the ford racing kit. But on my other block ill use the mmr ones
 

moooosestang

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Any update, more pics? So from the looks of it the oil pump was fine? I only have 60k miles on my motor, but thinking about doing timing chain tensioners and guides long before 100k because of the known issue with them breaking.
 

ryanmc92000

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Just waiting on parts, but i al doing cams,rockers,lash and toming kit. Using the felpro adjuster gaskets, steeda crank pulley etc. should have it all together next weekend. Everything on top end looks good, but want to put in the newer design rockers etc
 

JC SSP

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I am leaning on doing mine before 150K. I am at 125k so planning on this in the near future.
 

GlassTop09

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Here’s a closer shot from when I build my current engine. View attachment 93003
Thanks for these pictures!

I know what I'm gonna type will be somewhat controversial, but this indicates to me that Ford realized they made a mistake w\ the 3V's.......the plastic chain tensioner design has always felt to me to have been more of a cost saving thing far more than an operational design issue due to no basic dynamic operation changes between a 2V, 3V or Coyote OHC timing chain design, especially concerning VCT usage (the main issue quoted in all the reasonings why the plastic non-ratcheting design is a necessity w\ the 3V's concerning maintaining proper chain tension) but didn't know if Ford had continued their use w\ the following Coyote engines.......this would have given more credence to this reasoning of remaining to use these plastic chain tensioners from a position of engineering design criteria IMHO.

The advent of Ford reverting back to using iron ratcheting chain tensioners on the Coyote engines, to me, is a clear indication of an obvious engineering design correction by Ford engineers of the previous 3V plastic chain tensioner design, thus IMHO also makes using the iron ratcheting 2V chain tensioners a clear & viable alternative for any 3V since they are identical from a design dimension\operational perspective.

Appreciate it!

:beer:
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Thanks for these pictures!

I know what I'm gonna type will be somewhat controversial, but this indicates to me that Ford realized they made a mistake w\ the 3V's.......the plastic chain tensioner design has always felt to me to have been more of a cost saving thing far more than an operational design issue due to no basic dynamic operation changes between a 2V, 3V or Coyote OHC timing chain design, especially concerning VCT usage (the main issue quoted in all the reasonings why the plastic non-ratcheting design is a necessity w\ the 3V's concerning maintaining proper chain tension) but didn't know if Ford had continued their use w\ the following Coyote engines.......this would have given more credence to this reasoning of remaining to use these plastic chain tensioners from a position of engineering design criteria IMHO.

The advent of Ford reverting back to using iron ratcheting chain tensioners on the Coyote engines, to me, is a clear indication of an obvious engineering design correction by Ford engineers of the previous 3V plastic chain tensioner design, thus IMHO also makes using the iron ratcheting 2V chain tensioners a clear & viable alternative for any 3V since they are identical from a design dimension\operational perspective.

Appreciate it!

:beer:

Ford only used cast iron ratcheting tensioners (CR3Z-6L266-A) in the Gen 1 Coyote. For Gen 2 & 3 they used aluminum non-ratcheting tensioners (JL3Z-6L266-C).


Ask yourself why Ford reverted back to non-ratcheting tensioners in the later generation Coyotes if the ratcheted versions are supposedly a better design.
Even Brian FordTechMakuloco doesn't recommend the cast iron ratcheting tensioners.


The way I see it the best options for the 3V are:

1. Ford Performance camshaft drive kit with plastic non-ratcheting tensioners but use Felpro gaskets to avoid leaking issues.

2. MMR billet chain tensioners.

In any event I'd say you should replace all timing components plus cam followers/lash adjusters not later than 150k miles. Yeah I know the stock 3V components have been known to last 180k, 200k, and occasionally even more miles but why chance it? I'd also replace the oil pump plus the valve stem oil seals at the same time, and some might even see this as a good opportunity to perform a cam swap and upgrade the valve springs.
 
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lwarrior1016

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Also, the mmr tensioner has an internal stop, in the chance of oil pressure loss. It won’t bottom completely and create slack in the chain like the plastic ones will.
 

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