passenger side toe out after installing bmr k member/ a arms

[snopro442]

Ok so after a lot of messing around and countless hours I still have toe out on the passenger side front wheel. I tried to move the steering rack and that's a no go. When I installed the k member I left the tie rods in the spindles and did not touch them so that is not the issue. I removed the BMR a arm and installed the stock arm and still the same problem. So I put it all back together and took a few pictures of it. The first thing I did notice is the drivers side 2 mounting bolts at the rear of the arm are both even and towards the front of the car (see picture) the drivers side is all nice and straight and it all looks great. Now when you look at the passenger side rear 2 mounting bolts you will notice that they are not even and the one outer bolt is more towards the firewall and the inner second bolt is towards the front of the car. With the a arm out of the spindle it does move nice without any binding. So my question is, is the k member twisted? I took a few pictures of where the k member mounts to the 4 bolts that hang down from the frame and you will see that they k member is mounted towards to firewall and looks even. Again any input would be great Thanks.

 

[snopro442]

Also, the k member is the style that lowers your motor 1/2". That shouldn't have anything to do with it and again the person that I bought it from had it on a 2008 mustang gt and had very low miles on it. It looked like new when I picked it up and I don't see any paint chips or flacking where it could be bent so I am not really sure what to try next.

 

[BMR Tech]

I see what you are talking about, with the slight mounting difference from side to side. If that is your issue, I am unsure.

SO - here is what I recommend.

You have the OEM K-Member laying around, correct? With the Arms installed?

If so, with the A-arms sticking straight out - measure the track width. The easiest and quickest way to do this, is to measure from the center of the ball joints. Make a mark on the center, on the bottoms....and run a tape across. Let's see what the comparison is to the OEM, Versus the BMR you have put on the car.

What I would also like to see....is how the rear bolts (furthest to the rear) are positioned in the mounting points. As in, are the holes on the chassis centered to the holes in the K-Member mounts? Is the K-Member more inward, or outward?

Something else to check would be the distance (centerline of bolts) between the most inward passengers side, and driver side A-Arm Mounting bolts. Measure the OEM distance, and compare to the BMR. I almost always recommend ours, or someones A-Arm support brace there - to ensure the spacing is the same. This typically makes alignment easier....and ensures that you remove any of the "draw" or "flex" from the rear K-Member legs, after they are pulled from the jig.

If you put the OEM control arm, in place of the BMR...and the issue is still present, then it has to be within the K-Member / Mounting.

I look forward to seeing what the issue is.

 

[BMR Tech]

Also, the k member is the style that lowers your motor 1/2". That shouldn't have anything to do with it and again the person that I bought it from had it on a 2008 mustang gt and had very low miles on it. It looked like new when I picked it up and I don't see any paint chips or flacking where it could be bent so I am not really sure what to try next.

Did you ask him is he had the same issues?

 

[BMR Tech]

I also think a baseline alignment would help drastically.

I know it may cost a little more money, but you likely saved greatly on these pieces being used. New, they are $1000 or so.

My local alignment shop gives me basically free run of the rack, when ours here at the facility is "tied up". Do you have a good relationship with an alignment shop?

If you get the toe fixed....and get some basic read-outs, the caster and camber numbers "should" immediately tell the story.

 

[BMR Tech]

Another thing I wanna see.

With the car sitting on all 4 tires....on a level surface, can you measure and share what the angles of each Tie Rod are?

If you do not have an angle finder, you can use a smartphone app. I use one called "Leveler" in the Android Market (Play Store)

 

[skwerl]

I think your passenger side A arm may be bent. It's a lot more likely than a bent K member.

I have two passenger side A arms here, both are adjustable. One is the older style like you have and one is the new style and was only on the car about 6 weeks. I'd be willing to give you a heck of a deal on one of them.

 

[BMR Tech]

^ Brian, he had the same issue when he put the OEM A-Arm on the car..

 

[skwerl]

OK, never mind then. I skimmed through some of the posts.

 

[snopro442]

I spoke with the person that I got it from and he told me that everything was good when he installed it and that he didn't have the toe out problem. When I installed it, I kept the a arms on just like he had it and didnt change anything from his set up.

 

[BMR Tech]

^ Odd....

Well, hopefully we can get it figured out.

Did he have a bumpsteer kit on his car?

 

[snopro442]

I measured from the rear mounting section of the k member ( the part that has the 2 bolts going up into the floor board area) and measured at the lower ball joint grease zerk and found the passenger side zerk just over 1/4 to 1/2 inch towards the front of the car. any thoughts?

 

[skwerl]

If the arm isn't bent then maybe the tabs where the rear leg of the arm mount to the K member are bent. The only thing I'm sure of at this point is that something is bent somewhere. Without putting it in the jig at BMR then all you can do is keep measuring one side versus the other until you can figure out what is off.

Regardless, do you have enough adjustment in your tie rod ends to bring the front end into spec? That's all that matters at this point.

 

[snopro442]

Im sure that the toe in/out can be set but wont the pass. side be more forward?

 

[01yellerCobra]

I spoke with the person that I got it from and he told me that everything was good when he installed it and that he didn't have the toe out problem. When I installed it, I kept the a arms on just like he had it and didnt change anything from his set up.

Who's to say it wasn't aligned around this issue though?

Misspelling brought to you by tapatalk

 

[snopro442]

The person I got it from told me that he installed it and didn't have it aligned. He said he didn't have any issues with it after the install, he bought it all brand new also.

 

[snopro442]

I just ordered a new bmr k member and when I get it installed I will updated this posting. Thanks

 

[BMR Tech]

Please do!

I hope it works out for you. If it does, I would maybe see if the previous owner of your current one, could work something out with you.

Also - I highly recommend the AAS001.

 

[snopro442]

new k member will be here on Tuesday so I should have it done by weds.

 

[snopro442]

The new k member came today and I took a few pictures of the old one with the a arms still on it. The first pictures are of the drivers side and it all looks good and square. The next few are of the passenger side and from the top you can see the rear is not square and where it goes into the k member the bushing doesn't look like it is even on both sides. So now I go to install the a arms into the new one and the front mounting bushing will not go in. Looks like the brass sleeve is just a little to wide. Any ideas?