blue streak
forum member
the brass color is from heat. dont think it will come out. my slp tips are that way.
polish stock fuel rails
- Thread starter DonovanS302
- Start date
Infamous05
forum member
My Tips were the same way but some turtle wax chrome polish and a lot of elbow grease got them back to new. Now if I can just get them lined back up. One side is sitting lower 
alexthejew
Jewish and lovin it.
My Tips were the same way but some turtle wax chrome polish and a lot of elbow grease got them back to new. Now if I can just get them lined back up. One side is sitting lower
one of mine was sitting lower. i couldnt fix it for the life of me, but then i was under the car and started playing a bit. for me, twisting the midpipes (the ones that hang over the axel from the cross over to the mufflers) fixed the alignment.
06Torch
forum member
I'd like to offer a few pointers on DIY polishing aluminum that never seems to get passed on.
1st, Start with a pretty corse grit. I would say 150 to 200. This may seem a bit extreme but the upper most layer on most cast aluminum pieces seem to have lots of imperfections such as cast flash and where the two or more pieces met in the casting process. The scratches you'll leave will be deep but the imperfections and irregularities in the piece will be gone. I've seen plenty of polished cast flash and casting mold signs from not going down far enough. It always looks unfinished, IMO.
2nd, Resist the temptation to use your bare fingers behind the sanding medium. Sounds impossible but it really isn't. For the large areas use a sanding block. For the tighter areas, use a rubber eraser wrapped in a small sheet of sand paper. Flat areas need to stay flat.
3rd, ONLY use your fingers in those knooks and crannies where a polishing block wheel, etc... will not fit. Use the finger tips for those curved areas only. I've seen really nice work gone to Hell because some poor soul stayed too long in one area. Waves in polished aluminum just look bad.
And 4th, Don't move on to the next grit until the job is done. Each grit needs to eliminate all the scratches made by the grit before it. You know you're ready to move on to the next grit when the piece is no longer scratched and the appearance is more "blurred" than scratched. This becomes more apparent in the wet sanding part than the dry. 600-2000 is where I begin to wet sand.
I'll use my bare hand when doing the last two grits, 1500 and 2000. You're removing very little metal from the work piece so there's little chance of getting waves at this stage in the process. And, I finish off with Mother's Aluminum Wheel Polish.
Good luck all,
Gerardo
1st, Start with a pretty corse grit. I would say 150 to 200. This may seem a bit extreme but the upper most layer on most cast aluminum pieces seem to have lots of imperfections such as cast flash and where the two or more pieces met in the casting process. The scratches you'll leave will be deep but the imperfections and irregularities in the piece will be gone. I've seen plenty of polished cast flash and casting mold signs from not going down far enough. It always looks unfinished, IMO.
2nd, Resist the temptation to use your bare fingers behind the sanding medium. Sounds impossible but it really isn't. For the large areas use a sanding block. For the tighter areas, use a rubber eraser wrapped in a small sheet of sand paper. Flat areas need to stay flat.
3rd, ONLY use your fingers in those knooks and crannies where a polishing block wheel, etc... will not fit. Use the finger tips for those curved areas only. I've seen really nice work gone to Hell because some poor soul stayed too long in one area. Waves in polished aluminum just look bad.
And 4th, Don't move on to the next grit until the job is done. Each grit needs to eliminate all the scratches made by the grit before it. You know you're ready to move on to the next grit when the piece is no longer scratched and the appearance is more "blurred" than scratched. This becomes more apparent in the wet sanding part than the dry. 600-2000 is where I begin to wet sand.
I'll use my bare hand when doing the last two grits, 1500 and 2000. You're removing very little metal from the work piece so there's little chance of getting waves at this stage in the process. And, I finish off with Mother's Aluminum Wheel Polish.
Good luck all,
Gerardo
Scrape
forum member
Agree with you Gerardo!
Dreadknought
HOON MONSTER
Here Here!! Thanks for the advice.
06Torch
forum member
:O
Back from the dead!
I just bought some OEM valve covers yesterday and I think I'll try my hand at this. I'll post pics as I go on another thread.
Gerardo
Back from the dead!
I just bought some OEM valve covers yesterday and I think I'll try my hand at this. I'll post pics as I go on another thread.
Gerardo
Last edited:
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