Project Break a Boss

[ford20]

Man, that stuff has to be coated in oil or WD, cosmoline. Things are damp all the time.. sorry about that. If the sliding components are rusty or pitted I'd replace them.

Also, shouldn't those tensioner housings be plastic?

The tensioners themselves are metal on the coyote well at least I know on the Boss they are metal although I am almost positive the Coyote tensioners are metal as well. I know on the 3V they are plastic.

How long has that motor been covered?

On and off since October I would say. The last time I uncovered it was a few weeks ago to put in the PCV fittings on the motor and all was fine.

Spray it down good with a silicone spray or wipe it down with engine oil. The light surface rust will dissolve in the oil and be fine, the oil will arrest any further rusting. The main thing is to coat every possible exposed internal engine surface with oil. It works once the engine is complete, it will work for an incomplete engine also.


Tell me, on a complete engine that has sat for a year, how do you treat it? You put oil in it and run it, right? Why would this be any different? It's only minor surface rust, perfectly normal. Don't let it frighten you.

What should I wipe it down with, like what kind of applicator. I assumed with my luck the surface rust would cause all sorts of havoc on the engine if I didn't get all of it 100% entirely off. Thanks for the help Brian

 

[skwerl]

IMO if you have some way to spray the oil on it may be better than wiping it with a material that could shed fibers. And the fine surface rust should dissolve in the oil. IMHO of course.

 

[Wicked One]

spray that bitch with wd40. its just surface rust. And get that pig running. tired of you bitching. love ya sean.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

[weather man]

Sea Foam Deep Creep. Spray it on the light surface rust and forget about it.

 

[05gtowner]

I would use motor oil. WD gumms up after awhile. If you aren't going to have it up and running anytime soon then I would wipe it down with a good quality machine oil or motor oil and button that thing up ASAP. The change in weather and humidity is what caused it to flash rust that fast. It will keep doing it unless it is sealed and coated with oil. I would also throw a couple of packs of desiccants in the bag and seal it up. http://www.uline.com/Grp_21/Desiccants

 

[ford20]

I will just spray the shit out of it with some WD-40 and seal it up. The motor should be going off to JPC the next time I am down in the DC area which should be next week so hopefully everything will be clear by that time this way they don't have to deal with another error on my part.

Thanks everyone.

spray that bitch with wd40. its just surface rust. And get that pig running. tired of you bitching. love ya sean.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Haha Thanks Gregg

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I heard an LS is going in this!!!!!!!! Lets do it!!!!!

 

[ford20]

I heard an LS is going in this!!!!!!!! Lets do it!!!!!

Fuck yes, change of plans my man!! 5.3 is inbound in a few weeks!

Although I'm surprised how many people hate those who do LS swaps.

 

[Doug M]

Lol. Is it done yet?!?!?

 

[ford20]

I feel like I should steal weatherman's build thread title at this point haha!

 

[Doug M]

Haha. He hit it right on that one, for sure! You'll get it, just keep on going. Will be so worthy it, doe!!

 

[weather man]

I feel like I should steal weatherman's build thread title at this point haha!

Beer!!! and lots of it!

 

[ford20]

Haha. He hit it right on that one, for sure! You'll get it, just keep on going. Will be so worthy it, doe!!

I'm just excited to actually drive it again. I would even throw a 2V in it and call it a day haha.

Beer!!! and lots of it!

With the amount of money I have, all you would end up getting is some 40's of Steel Reserve.

 

[ford20]

Well, since the motor, I turned my attention to getting everything else ready for the car going down to JPC. I started with the VMP voltage booster (It is the same thing as a Boost-a-Pump except that Kenne Bell owns that name) and it is so stupid simple that even a caveman could do it. Once again, I had my helper with me once I pulled the trunk mat out of the car.

So I laid out everything for this install. As you can see there is not much to it.

It was so simple, I used the adhesive strips and placed them on the back of the voltage booster and then attached it to the side of the tire well. I then disconnected the FPDM connection and plugged it into harness and then the harness into the voltage booster. I grounded the wire into the ground bolt that is sitting at right behind the factory plastic
trunk piece.

I then moved my way to the fuse box and put the supplied fuse in location F13 in the fuse box

Parts Used

• VMP Plug and Play Voltage Booster - vmppnpamp

Since my battery is so beyond dead at this point I tied some twine to the emergency trunk latch in the trunk this way I could just pull on the twine and it will pop the trunk in case I needed to get into the trunk for whatever reason.

 

[ford20]

One of the biggest problems of the Boss 302 is the cooling especially on the 2012 models. With the smaller grill opening and lack of heat ventilation they tend to overheat pretty well on track. One of the many solutions is to run a billet style grill such as the Roush, Saleen or CJ grill. Just as an FYI the Cobra Jet grill is nothing more than a GT/CS grill that is completely open for maximum airflow.

That being said, I love the styling on the Boss 302 grill along with the Boss 302S grill. The problem with the Boss 302 S grill is that it tapers down towards the backside of the grill so the actual opening isn't that big. in order to combat this I decided I would take a dremel and open up the back side a bit more by removing a lot of the plastic on the upper portion of the grill slats. I also removed the plastic pieces along the grill that are covering the air inlet in hopes to bring more air into the inlet to the factory intake.

I took a drill and drilled out holes as such this way I could get the sanding drum from my dremel in there and sand away at it.

When I first started this I was barely able to get my finger in the openings up to the end of my finger nail. Now I can get all up in this bish! It doesn't seem like much, but hopefully this will allow more air to pass through the radiator into the grill.

You can see that from the first picture it is crappy ABS plastic colored and it just gives the front of the car sort of this unfinished look. SO I grabbed some black vinyl and decided I would wrap the grill. I have wrapped things before without issue but let me tell you, this was a pain in the butt!

This is what it looked like after the first attempt. From far away it looked good but once you got up close it looked like poo to me.

You can kind of see it in the lower left hand corner of the grill it starting to peel up. no matter what I did, I couldn't make the vinyl stick in these corners so I ended up pulling it off and decided I would just paint it black. I masked everything off and let it hit it with some Ford black.

Kind of looks like an RTR car with the bright green fog lights haha. At this point I popped it back into the car.

Parts Used

• Boss 302S grill - M-8200-MBR

To continue on with the cooling theme I also picked up a GT500 cooling fan. There are people who put this on and said that it really hasn't lowered their oil temps much if any but I would imagine that with the more airflow being able to get through to the grill with the added slats it has to do something.

Boss 302/GT cooling fan

GT500 Cooling Fan

You can see the difference not only in the size of the fans but also the shape of the fan blades along with the flaps along the bottom to allow more air through the shroud at high speeds.

Parts Used

• GT500 Cooling Fan - M-8C607-MSVT

 

[skwerl]

VMP sure made the fuel pump booster so easy with their development of the 'plug and play' version. The earlier ones had to be spliced in just like the KB model.

 

[05gtowner]

Is it possible to remove the fog light deletes and run a open mesh or something to allow more airflow? I too went with the 2013 GT500 cooling fan. It does move considerably more air and is quieter as well.

 

[ford20]

VMP sure made the fuel pump booster so easy with their development of the 'plug and play' version. The earlier ones had to be spliced in just like the KB model.

It has to be the easiest thing int he world to do. From what i can tell the Boos-a-pump is exactly the same as the VMP voltage booster. With this being so simple to use, I'm not sure why more people aren't using it.

Is it possible to remove the fog light deletes and run a open mesh or something to allow more airflow? I too went with the 2013 GT500 cooling fan. It does move considerably more air and is quieter as well.

On the 2013 Boss you can remove the fog deletes and run them open for more airflow. On the 2012's you would have to drill all of that out which is what the 302S grill does along with removes all of the blocked off plastic from the center section. Even still the Boss 302S cars were still getting high temps so they would either pull the grill out or run the factory GT grill since it allowed more air through it. You can see the difference between the Boss 302 and the 302S grill and I ended up taking the plastic parts in between the grill area out of here to allow cool air to get right into the air intake path. I may drill out the other side as well depending on what kind of temperatures I may get.

 

[ford20]

So a few months back I ended up wrapping the headers in DEI Titanium header wrap and it was a bit of a pain in the butt since I have never done anything like that before and my stainless steel tie wraps wouldn't fit all the way around the collector and I didn't think they came out all that great. There were some spots that weren't wrapped due to the tight gaps between each pipe so I decided to take them off and wrap them and ceramic coat them since I now had plenty of time to do that.

I ended up contacting Jet-Hot and was looking for a ceramic coating that would be able to handle 30 minutes of on track session without skipping a beat. Since the primary tubes are so close to the heads I wanted to try and keep them as cool as possible considering their close proximity to the headers. Their sales rep Dustin contacted me within an hour and sent me some product info about their Extreme 2500 Ceramic Coating finish which is below:

Extreme 2500 ceramic coating is a blend of full ceramic oxides that provide an insulative barrier from the conductive transfer of heat. The coating also provides excellent corrosion protection from both salt spray and chemical attack due to the inert materials that are fused together creating the coating film. The corrosion protections provides the ability for a blanket or wrap to be used in conjunction with this coating without the negative effects of corrosion by entrapped moisture between the wrap and the metal substrate.

This type of coating is typically used in applications where ceramic-metallic hybrid coatings will not operate. Applications with temperatures above 1300F benefit from this coating to reduce the external skin temperature. However even lower temperature applications can benefit from the low thermal conductivity of this coating.

Extreme 2500 coating is applied to mild steel, low carbon steel, stainless steel, nickel alloys, ductile, and gray cast iron.

The application method utilizes flame spray equipment to deliver the product to the external part surfaces requiring coating. Multiple layers can be applied achieving a maximum thickness near 0.013” (0.33mm).

This coating can only be applied to line of sight exterior surfaces due to the equipment size limitations and extreme heat at the gun nozzle. Care must be exercised to ensure that temperatures do not exceed 1000F during application.

Where this coating is a full ceramic, it is susceptible to cracking when applied beyond 0.07” (0.178mm).

Product Data: Materials: Yttrium stabilized zirconium and magnesium Volatile Organic Content: None
Dry Film Thickness range: 6 to 13 mils (0.006-0.013”) or (0.15-.33mm)
Service Temperature: >2500F (1371C) continuous
Corrosion resistance B-117 salt spray: >10,000 hours
Thermal shock 1000F to 70F: No change in coating properties
Thermal Conductivity (ASTM D5470): 0.07 to 0.12 W/m*K

I mean I am no expert about Ceramic coatings so when I went to go ahead and look at what the coating does beyond what Dustin sent over to me I found that this is the level of coating that they would recommend on supercharged and turbo charged applications due to the high amounts of heat that these systems generate. The coating itself can withstand up to 4,200 degree Fahrenheit temperatures and actually insulates the pipes so that there is almost no heat radiation from the headers. If you have ever opened the hood of your 5.0 and felt the blast of hot air smack you, you would know this will be a good thing. I figured that the coating having the ability to withstand these kind of temperatures and keeping things under the hood of the car nice and cool while keeping the exhaust gases nice and toasty I was ok to spend the ~$750 for the coating plus shipping.

When I got them back holy schnikes dude! The box I received them in was bigger and the headers were packed better than they were from Kooks. I haven't taken them out of the bags yet, but the finish is black and has a gritty texture to it. You can get them top coated with another one of their finishes if you would like to. I chose not to since you can see the bones on my piggy bank.

 

[skwerl]

So you show us a picture of the headers wrapped in a bag? WTF?