Rear end fortification suggestions

kdanner

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I was making 600hp NA and launching at 5500 off the transbrake at 3200lb race weight.

But these cars need a bunch of bracing and girdles at 450-550hp at 3800lb?

Im not trying to call anyone wrong or call anyone out, I just want to learn before I make a costly mistake.

A transbrake doesn't hit the drivetrain near as hard as a clutch car does. I'd say that is the biggest factor in your comparison, 2nd being the 600 lbs or so weight difference, 3rd being the narrower axle in the older cars which makes it inherently stiffer.
 

beefcake

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A transbrake doesn't hit the drivetrain near as hard as a clutch car does. I'd say that is the biggest factor in your comparison, 2nd being the 600 lbs or so weight difference, 3rd being the narrower axle in the older cars which makes it inherently stiffer.

bout sums it up

again, auto car i wouldn't be too worried, a stick s197, not a bad idea. bent axles on 2 outta 3, and i think the 10 was starting to go a bit as well
 

wbt

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It makes sense how it works. I shouldnt have called it ricer crap, that was just inflamatory. Regardless, ive had 500/500 for 2 years and nearly 30k daily driven miles. Been to the track for probably a dozen runs on small ish drag radials. I guess there could be a wear issue there from the flex, but it seems negligable to me.

Id actually have a great laugh at myself if I break my rear. Wouldnt be the first time ive put my foot in my mouth. Ill definitley post up though if it happens.

No worries man. Didn't mean to offend. :beerdrink:

I think if you had more time at the track on some stickies you may start to see issues. The periodic blast from time to time wouldn't make it as prevalent.
 

beefcake

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No worries man. Didn't mean to offend. :beerdrink:

I think if you had more time at the track on some stickies you may start to see issues. The periodic blast from time to time wouldn't make it as prevalent.

I don't know why my shelby didn't like dumping at 5200 with 4.10's ????

lol
 

Liftedbronco

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i broke a rod and have a forged shortblock going in soon. i duno what its gonna make..but at least 650. Steve Poe (from on here) is making me a new 8.8 with an ECTED diff. I still wasnt gonna do a brace or anything. And im gonna get some 28x12 slicks. Now you're making me nervous.
 

wbt

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i broke a rod and have a forged shortblock going in soon. i duno what its gonna make..but at least 650. Steve Poe (from on here) is making me a new 8.8 with an ECTED diff. I still wasnt gonna do a brace or anything. And im gonna get some 28x12 slicks. Now you're making me nervous.

It is relatively cheap insurance and the extra weight is negligible.

Here is the link for the diff cover and brace from CHE.
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-314.htm

They also have 10% off on their products for the SuperBowl. Good time to buy if you can swing it.

Earlier today I dropped a bunch of cash on control arms, relo. brackets, upper mount and the D/S loop. Saved about $60 with the current special going on. :beer:
 

Intervention

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I might pick up that brace only... I already have a girdle. Only fear is that it wont fit with my 3" exhaust

So I'm hoping my new Eaton Posi with the FRPP girdle and these axle bracing will hold up to a good deal of track abuse
 
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Liftedbronco

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so after all, you guys converted me. Cuz now id be paranoid without a brace. I just sold my original rear with the frpp cover, so the new one thats coming is gonna get one of those cool looking UPR billet ones. Plus those upr weld on braces. They seem alot lighter and less cumbersome than the che thing. Plus im going watts link at some point, so im certain that wouldnt fit with the CHE.

Thanks OP for bringing this up. And wbt for beatin it into me.
 

wbt

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so after all, you guys converted me. Cuz now id be paranoid without a brace. I just sold my original rear with the frpp cover, so the new one thats coming is gonna get one of those cool looking UPR billet ones. Plus those upr weld on braces. They seem alot lighter and less cumbersome than the che thing. Plus im going watts link at some point, so im certain that wouldnt fit with the CHE.

Thanks OP for bringing this up. And wbt for beatin it into me.

Right on! :beerchug2:
 

router

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One pc drive shaft and safty loop. Also some ARP wheel studs, you will need them sooner or later, I got lucky and spun 3 studs off on a run, luck for me the other two
held.
 

Digital_Synapse

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where can I find videos of this problem that this part fixes? Will this completely prevent te rear from breaking, just by stopping flex?
 

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