Started correcting paint... Have questions

[dv8uagain]

As a preface I have everything from Seer's list and have washed and clayed the car Last Saturday and Sunday using CG Luber. I did not wash the car again as I would be starting the correcting this upcoming weekend. Tonight for s&g's I figured I would give the HF with the cyan hydro pad and 105 a shot on the deck lid and wing then polished it out with 205.

Here's where I think I am stuck.
1: How do I know how long to work the product I am essentially making a slow pass front to back then side to side then wiping it off should I be doing more than that? How do I know if I am overworking/underworking the product?

2: I have on the wing what appear to be water etching marks they almost look like faint water drops i am obviously not getting them off which makes me think I am not doing enough with the product but also these marks are nowhere else on the deck lid which makes me wonder if it's something in the clear or in the paint. Kind of looks like the shit that dishwashers would do to glasses back in the day.

3: Do you guys do the whole car in m105 then follow it up with the 205 or do you do both steps on each section you tape off (I think I was just getting excited) and after each step should I wipe the whole car down with Isotropy alcohol 91% 50/50 with distilled water before stating the next step?

Sorry for the long post just want to check with you guys before I have to do the whole car twice
Thanks everyone

 

[Synyster06Gates]

As a preface I have everything from Seer's list and have washed and clayed the car Last Saturday and Sunday using CG Luber. I did not wash the car again as I would be starting the correcting this upcoming weekend. Tonight for s&g's I figured I would give the HF with the cyan hydro pad and 105 a shot on the deck lid and wing then polished it out with 205.

Here's where I think I am stuck.
1: How do I know how long to work the product I am essentially making a slow pass front to back then side to side then wiping it off should I be doing more than that? How do I know if I am overworking/underworking the product?

2: I have on the wing what appear to be water etching marks they almost look like faint water drops i am obviously not getting them off which makes me think I am not doing enough with the product but also these marks are nowhere else on the deck lid which makes me wonder if it's something in the clear or in the paint. Kind of looks like the shit that dishwashers would do to glasses back in the day.

3: Do you guys do the whole car in m105 then follow it up with the 205 or do you do both steps on each section you tape off (I think I was just getting excited) and after each step should I wipe the whole car down with Isotropy alcohol 91% 50/50 with distilled water before stating the next step?

Sorry for the long post just want to check with you guys before I have to do the whole car twice
Thanks everyone

1. I usually make 4 passes per pad/compound combo. Alternating between side to side and up/down. Some products are meant to turn into powder when they are fully worked, some just sort of disappear. I'm not sure what yours do.

2. Usually hard water spots will come out with clay. The few that haven't, I was able to get out with a compound but you really shouldn't do that if it's dirty spots.

3. I do the sections one at a time 105/205. Move the tape lines and over lap with the last section and do it again, then wax the whole car at once. You don't need to do the alcohol wipe unless you feel there is leftover product on the car.

 

[hwm3]

Have you been driving the car since you washed it?

1. With 105 you should be able to tell how long to work it. You really can't underwork it as the abrasives don't break down. You can overwork it though.

2. It sounds like the waterspots are etched into the clear rather than on the clear. It may take more passes with 105 to fully remove them. If the are really bad it may need to be wet sanded. This isn't something for a beginner to attempt, especially on something as curved as the spoiler.

3. Tape the entire car. 105 over the entire car until the defects are removed to your satisfaction. Then follow with 205 to remove the haze left behind by 105. Wipe down with 50/50 ISO between each step.

 

[dv8uagain]

It's weird these dont look like they are dirty I am almost wondering if is in the clear itself that's why I was wondering if the buffer should get them out and I just wasn't working it enough. I am using M105 and M205 as well.

 

[Synyster06Gates]

How much pressure are you putting on the buffer and at what speed are you running it?

 

[dv8uagain]

Compressing the pad a little bit but not bogging the machine down and on 105 running at 6 and on 205 running at 4. Car has not been out of the garage in a month other than to wash so not driving it.

 

[Steedman07]

Good thread. I have the same questions as you OP..

 

[dv8uagain]

It's is tricky if you haven't done it before as I don't think you get the full sense of working a product through a video on youtube.
not to mention it took me 4 days to get the balls up to take a power tool to the paint lol

 

[Steedman07]

The only way to learn is to just do it. I am still learning as well..You cant hurt the paint with a DA, so that should be comforting..

 

[Seer]

As a preface I have everything from Seer's list and have washed and clayed the car Last Saturday and Sunday using CG Luber. I did not wash the car again as I would be starting the correcting this upcoming weekend. Tonight for s&g's I figured I would give the HF with the cyan hydro pad and 105 a shot on the deck lid and wing then polished it out with 205.

Here's where I think I am stuck.
1: How do I know how long to work the product I am essentially making a slow pass front to back then side to side then wiping it off should I be doing more than that? How do I know if I am overworking/underworking the product?

2: I have on the wing what appear to be water etching marks they almost look like faint water drops i am obviously not getting them off which makes me think I am not doing enough with the product but also these marks are nowhere else on the deck lid which makes me wonder if it's something in the clear or in the paint. Kind of looks like the shit that dishwashers would do to glasses back in the day.

3: Do you guys do the whole car in m105 then follow it up with the 205 or do you do both steps on each section you tape off (I think I was just getting excited) and after each step should I wipe the whole car down with Isotropy alcohol 91% 50/50 with distilled water before stating the next step?

Sorry for the long post just want to check with you guys before I have to do the whole car twice
Thanks everyone

There has been a ton of great advice given to you so far in this thread.

1. As stated before M105 and 205 have a new non diminishing abrasive, they can literally be worked as little or as much as needed. This being said, here is what has worked for me depending on the combo you are going with, the most common combo are the following two:

Process 1:
M105/Cyan pad, speed 6, 10lbs of pressure, 3-4 horizontal passes, 3-4 vertical.
M205 or Menz PO85RD/Crimson, speed 4-5, initial pressure, with easing up on the final passes, same amount

Process 2:
M105/Cyan pad, speed 6, 10lbs of pressure, 3-4 horizontal passes, 3-4 vertical.
M205/Tangerine, speed 5.5-6, 10lbs of pressure, 3-4 horizontal passes, 3-4 vertical
M205 or Menz PO85RD/Crimson, speed 4-5, initial pressure, with easing up on the final passes, same amount

I've also had luck using M205 as a 1 step with a cyan pad.

2. Keep at it, or go more aggressive.

3. You'll need to alcohol wipe the car when you're done polishing, as sealants wont bond to polishing oils.

 

[dv8uagain]

Sweet thanks for all the tips guys. I am going to have at it Sunday and Monday so I am going to hit the trunk area again and see what I come up with. I will post some pics once I get it all finished up.

 

[dv8uagain]

Oh also I did use some dots of the d300 to minimize dust on the 105 and was surprised at the difference it made. Night and day!

 

[bullitt 736]

As Seer said, there's been some good advice. I would ask though, why m105 the entire car if m105 is not needed everywhere? The OP's car may need it but..... Only use what is required.

I would try the m105 on the water spots again. They may however be etched deep in the clear as was said. Wet sanding could be needed as a last resort.

 

[JCCNY]

3. You'll need to alcohol wipe the car when you're done polishing, as sealants wont bond to polishing oils.[/QUOTE]


Great reminder, I probably would have forgotten this!

 

[28ONE]

I'm gonna M105/M205 my car tomorrow then apply CG Blacklight or Jetseal 109. Not looking forward to it because its such a long process. I definitely tape it off into sections. It does get easier with more practice. Have a Xeon light this time, a must have to check your work!

Got this new product from Detailers Club (Speedy Surface Prep Dx Pad - Fine Grade) use instead of clay barring. Suppose to speed up the process, we'll see.

As to your question OP, Steedman said it best, "the only way to learn is to just do it." I was in the same position your are this time last year, practice, practice, practice!

 

[dv8uagain]

Bullitt: the car was in really good shape but did have a fair bit of micro on the hood, trunk and spots here and there but owning the car for almost 7 years with crazy ritual borderline my wife thinks I am an asshole wash techniques I feel it's time to do a full on detail.... but to your comment on using where needed would there be any noticeable difference if i did 105 on a panel and not on another?

 

[hwm3]

Bullitt: the car was in really good shape but did have a fair bit of micro on the hood, trunk and spots here and there but owning the car for almost 7 years with crazy ritual borderline my wife thinks I am an asshole wash techniques I feel it's time to do a full on detail.... but to your comment on using where needed would there be any noticeable difference if i did 105 on a panel and not on another?

How noticeable it would be depends on the condition of the paint and the color of the car.

After 7 years, you'll need to go over the entire car with M105 for full correction. A single pass with M205 won't be enough.

 

[Seer]

Bullitt: the car was in really good shape but did have a fair bit of micro on the hood, trunk and spots here and there but owning the car for almost 7 years with crazy ritual borderline my wife thinks I am an asshole wash techniques I feel it's time to do a full on detail.... but to your comment on using where needed would there be any noticeable difference if i did 105 on a panel and not on another?

if you need 105 on one spot on the car, you most likely need it everywhere.

 

[Stage1]

Great info ...

 

[dv8uagain]

Update!

ok so here is where I am at now...

First 3 shots are pre wash and some of the defects!







Ready to go!



After M105



After M205


The rest are after 2 coats of Black Light and 1 coat of CG Black Wax still doing 1 more coat then V07









These are shot with a Canon Eos T3I they do it no justice. This thing never looked this good!!! Thanks everyone for all the help. I have been pushing this off for fear of screwing up but sorry I waited so long now...