Steed Upper Control Arm Mount

Mountain

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Looking for some feedback from anyone who has used Steeda's upper control arm mount or has any further thoughts on it. Why would this mount NOT work with the factory upper control arm? [Can we please leave the discussion in regards to the question and not on going with adjustable upper control arms or lowers]

The only two reasons that come to mind is the width of the bushing area on the factory arm not fitting in the mount, where maybe washers could take care of that problem...

Or, maybe in certain adjustment holes, the width of the factory arm portion comes into (or is close) contact with the sides of the mount... Maybe some minor grinding could alleviate this.

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-upper-chassis-mount-555-4027/
 
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Mountain

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Images for comparison:

mmfp-1303-16%2B2007-ford-mustang-gt%2Bsteeda-adjustable-upper-control-arm.jpg


8-11-12013.jpg


8-11-12014.jpg


8-11-12015.jpg


http://www.boss302forum.com/topic/14775-my-new-13-boss-302-laguna-seca-has-arrived/page-2
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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That upper mount looks pretty slick - adjustable UCA mounting holes to alter geometry, and it might indeed be narrower than the stock UCA front bushing. Looks like a laser cut and bent piece, made out of some stout plate steel.
 

Mountain

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Mr. Fair, you guys at Vorshlag haven't fooled with this guy yet?

Its either this or the Roush upper kit (I think you understand why per autox and NVH).
 

Wicked GT

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Just installed the Steeda Upper and Mount two weekends ago... The mount is indeed a stout piece. Well built and don't think I could damage it if I tried... definitely a buy it and forget about it piece as you should never have to worry about it again! :thumb:
 

Mountain

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Just installed the Steeda Upper and Mount two weekends ago... The mount is indeed a stout piece. Well built and don't think I could damage it if I tried... definitely a buy it and forget about it piece as you should never have to worry about it again! :thumb:

See any reason the stock arm wont fit in the Steeda mount?
 

Wicked GT

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That I am not sure... looking over the instructions for each piece they reference a "Factory Arm" in the instructions for the mount... see below:

01de.jpg
 

BMR Tech

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Looking for some feedback from anyone who has used Steeda's upper control arm mount or has any further thoughts on it. Why would this mount NOT work with the factory upper control arm? [Can we please leave the discussion in regards to the question and not on going with adjustable upper control arms or lowers]

The only two reasons that come to mind is the width of the bushing area on the factory arm not fitting in the mount, where maybe washers could take care of that problem...

Or, maybe in certain adjustment holes, the width of the factory arm portion comes into (or is close) contact with the sides of the mount... Maybe some minor grinding could alleviate this.

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-upper-chassis-mount-555-4027/

It all seems pretty simple to me. This is because we engineer all of our components individually, to work with OEM parts.

That said; the 2005-2010 Mustang uses a 14mm UCA to Mount bolt. The 2005-2010 UCA is also 1" shorter, than the 2011+ UCA. Due to this, the mounting position on the 2011+ UCA Mount is also 1" further forward.

Here are some pictures to show the difference. These are BMR Components, UCA/Mount specific to 2005-2010 and BMR UCA/Mount specific to 2011+:

(The 2011+ Pieces are the pieces that appear "beefier") and have larger hardware/holes.









That said, here is a shot showing the 05-10 and 11+ OEM Pieces:





Here is why most aftermarket UCA will clunk when installed in an OEM Mount:



Here is why it does not clunk with an aftermarket mount:




And here is why the clunking is not so prevalent/common with OEM pieces, even though the tolerance is sloppy - they are designed to not clunk via:




As you can tell, the OEM engineering did not work well for us. We started getting a clunk at 450 miles on our car, due to the OEM Sleeve design not quite "holding on" for us.

The simple part is, MOST companies simply retained features from the 2005-2010 Style UCA....while we were engineering our parts to be specific for the 2011+ UCA System Change.

The Steeda UCA MOUNT appears to still retain the 14mm through bolt, so, a 2011+ UCA will not work. A 2011+ UCA WILL work on our 2011+ Specific UCA Mount.

I also suspect this is why Mr. Fair had issues with his previous design UCA Systems. He claimed the factory '11 has a 14mm bolt, IIRC, in his blog....but that is simply not true. Somehow he ran into some incompatibility issues with the components he chose to run - and I feel his opinion of aftermarket pieces is slightly flawed due to this - as our parts fit like a glove.

Hope that helps!

:beerdrink:
 

DRock

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So has anyone figured out how to put a 2011+ UCA/mount on a 05-10 car? I want that big ass one instead :/
 

pass1over

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According to Steeda's website, it won't work.

If you would of posted this last week, I coudl of tried the stock arm in the Steeda mount as I just installed it last weekend.
 

Mountain

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Steeda "Made from 1/4 inch thick steel. Accepts the factory 18mm chassis mount bolt found only on the 2011 and up models"

BMR Tech, awesome info! Thanks. There were a few details you uncovered I had been wondering.
 

Mountain

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According to Steeda's website, it won't work.

If you would of posted this last week, I coudl of tried the stock arm in the Steeda mount as I just installed it last weekend.

Yes, and that's what I'm questioning...

Looking at the pictures I've seen, BMR tech's info and the instructions from Steeda that Wicked GT posted, clearly mentioning "with a factory (or factory length) control arm" - I think it's just Steeda marketing...
 

pass1over

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probably. I got my steeda UCA attached to a stock mount and it had stepped washers so it would fit snugly inside the oversized holes on the stock mount. But yea, it uses the exact same bolt. It should work.


edit:
Now that you mention it. My UCA mount instruction sheet said nothing about using the steeda UCA with it, all the instructions mentioned the stock UCA like you said.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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I also suspect this is why Mr. Fair had issues with his previous design UCA Systems. He claimed the factory '11 has a 14mm bolt, IIRC, in his blog....but that is simply not true. Somehow he ran into some incompatibility issues with the components he chose to run - and I feel his opinion of aftermarket pieces is slightly flawed due to this - as our parts fit like a glove.
BMR is right in what he said - we did have some mis-matched parts, and noticed the front UCA bolt size mismatch on other brands of UCA mounts and UCA arms/bushings, and knew that had to be the cause of the clunk that would ALWAYS develop with everyone else's parts. We chased it for many months and it was intolerable. A completely redesigned system that has the holes in the UCA mount and the bolt/sleeves in the UCA bushing that actually MATCH, and don't rely on the clamping of the mount to make up the difference in the slop? Well yes, that IS the right way to do it. :thumb:

DSC_1105-L.jpg


And what I wrote was a little misleading on the bolt sizes...



I just went out in the shop and measured these bolts properly, just to make sure I wasn't crazy and that there WAS an M14 bolt in there somewhere. The rear UCA bolt is indeed an M14 bolt (that goes through the axle side bushing) but the front UCA bolt is an M18, which is the one that was causing all of the problems we ran into (not matching the mounts or bushings for several other brands stuff).



We tried to modify another company's UCA mount and yet another company's UCA arm to work (mixing brands here was a bad idea), and with custom machined adapter bushings, a modified mount, a new bolt, and some other machine work it sort of worked. Eventually it would still clunk, and we traced that to the Del-Sphere bushings themselves (we kept tightening that 2-piece Delrin/metal bushing assembly but it was a huge PITA). And somewhere along the way we tore up the OEM bushing on the axle side (which we replaced with a new OEM unit). Any bind in the front UCA bushing is going to make the rear rubber bushing have to deform more, which can cause this tearing.



Eventually we just broke down and got the $700 assembly (mount + arm + spherical + properly designed bolt and bushings) from MultiMatic and it has been silent and trouble free for a long time. But $700 for an UCA assembly is a little nuts, and most people won't want the long term maintenance hassles of sphericals.



I just really liked the long bushings and how they mounted to the UCA mount, adapted to the supplied UCA arm through-bolt perfectly, and slid into the spherical bearing with less than .002" clearance. A very well engineered, but expensive kit. The BMR UCA mount and arm might be a better alternative for more folks - the pictures they provided are promising. The fact that they make a mount and arm and bolt that work together, and make them specific to the 2011-14 rear suspension, is good. :thumb:
 
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BMR Tech

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Good stuff Terry, thanks for clarifying. I remember reading your blog, and you likely just made a mistake when referencing the UCA to Mount bolt at M14.

You clearly, are analytical in what you do, and have all the data pertaining to the parts you test / use. Again, thanks for sharing and clarifying.

You should check out our new Spherical Bearing UCA (UTCA033), it, IMO, is engineered as good/better than the Multi Matic Piece.....features extremely high quality pieces, and offers pinion angle and instant center adjustment independently, when used with our Upper Mount. It's a very slick piece, definitely the "best" UCA System available.
 

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