The Black Pearl Build Parts List/Idea Thread

TheBlackPearl

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Here's my build:

05+ Aluminum block 3.7" bore.

Flat top pistons (11.5:1 CR) ceramic coating on top solid film on the sides

Boss rods or Manley H-beams (haven't decided yet)

Comp 128500 (108 ICL, 110 LSA)

Comp 26125 Springs/steel retainers*

FRPP Intake*

62mm TB*

JLT 110mm CAI*

ARH 1 3/4 LT's

TSS pump gears

I.W. Under drive balancer

4.30 gears

G Force TR3650 (close ratio gears)

This is going in my 2010 GT 3300# race
weight.

I already have the parts marked with *

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks TBP





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BruceH

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How are you getting a 3.7" bore with an aluminum block? Sleeving or a Cammer block?

How much is the G Force transmission? I ask because a complete TR-6060 swap can be done for under $2000.
 
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TheBlackPearl

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How much is the G Force transmission? I ask because a complete TR-6060 swap can be done for under $2000.


It's about 2k but I can get it faceplated for less than the 6060. I'm still on the fence about it though if I go 6 speed I'll pick up a magnum xl.

How are you getting a 3.7" bore with an aluminum block? Sleeving or a Cammer block?


Dry sleeves. The boss block costs about the same as sleeving an aluminum block, and I haven't found a Cammer block either.


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BruceH

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It's about 2k but I can get it faceplated for less than the 6060. I'm still on the fence about it though if I go 6 speed I'll pick up a magnum xl.




Dry sleeves. The boss block costs about the same as sleeving an aluminum block, and I haven't found a Cammer block either.


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Is that just for the transmission or a complete swap kit with all the parts?

I've driven both transmissions as stock units and can tell you that a regular 6060 is a whole lot better than a 3650. No matter what you do to the 3650 it will still have inferior syncros and internals. Besides the input shaft snapping gears also go with the 3650. This is due to them not being able to handle the power.

I've read that the G Force is shoehorning 6060 gears into a 3650 case. For less money you can have the real thing and all of the gears with the syncros. A 6060 shifts much better than a 3650. Despite what you may read the remote shifter isn't the big hangup with a 3650. It can't be because the 6060 is remote and it shifts great.

It's your money, good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

TheBlackPearl

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Will my CHE Torque limiters work with the 6060?


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BruceH

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Will my CHE Torque limiters work with the 6060?


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They should. It's the same bolt pattern and the block is in the same location.

You won't need them anyway. Faceplated? Are you mostly going to use the car for racing?
 

TheBlackPearl

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Once it gets to be more track oriented I'll think about faceplating it. For now I'm just thinking ahead.


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wht67

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I can't wait to hear how the 3.7 sleeved aluminum block does. I would love to go big bore with the lighter block....

It's about 2k but I can get it faceplated for less than the 6060. I'm still on the fence about it though if I go 6 speed I'll pick up a magnum xl.




Dry sleeves. The boss block costs about the same as sleeving an aluminum block, and I haven't found a Cammer block either.


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TheBlackPearl

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I can't wait to hear how the 3.7 sleeved aluminum block does. I would love to go big bore with the lighter block....


If I wasn't staying na I wouldn't have a problem with the iron boss block, but light weight is the name of the game when you're playing with a limited number of hp.

I've got to get ahold of LA sleeve and get a price on the sleeves. I'll try and do that this week.

Anyway, what are your opinions on long tubes? 1 5/8 or 1 3/7?


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TheBlackPearl

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These showed up today. Got them used for $110.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411763420.226771.jpg
I'm gonna replace the plugs tomorrow, and instal these. Hopefully that will keep me from having any issues with running high compression, and a wide plug gap.


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BruceH

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These showed up today. Got them used for $110.
View attachment 50047
I'm gonna replace the plugs tomorrow, and instal these. Hopefully that will keep me from having any issues with running high compression, and a wide plug gap.


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Not sure I understand? I'm running 12:1 with stock coils and .045" gap. No problems.

Did you get a price on the sleeves? I have a teksid block here that just might get sleeved or bored to coyote size if I can find a set of cheap pistons. It should definitely be able to be sleeved for a +.020 coyote bore of 3.650".

Still though, the FRPP Boss iron block is only around 150 lbs. That's less than 70lbs. more than an aluminum 3L 4.6. Cost is $1210 new. Maybe sleeving the old Teksid would be more cost effective? Lots of options if you think about it.
 

TheBlackPearl

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Not sure I understand? I'm running 12:1 with stock coils and .045" gap. No problems.

Did you get a price on the sleeves? I have a teksid block here that just might get sleeved or bored to coyote size if I can find a set of cheap pistons. It should definitely be able to be sleeved for a +.020 coyote bore of 3.650".

Still though, the FRPP Boss iron block is only around 150 lbs. That's less than 70lbs. more than an aluminum 3L 4.6. Cost is $1210 new. Maybe sleeving the old Teksid would be more cost effective? Lots of options if you think about it.


The coils are just for piece of mind on my part, and for the price I couldn't pass them up.

I've been in and out of town/to busy to get ahold of LA sleeve so far, but the sleeve sets from them seem to be about $50 a piece.

Also everybody I've talked to wants $900-$1000 to sleeve a aluminum block plus the $400 for sleeves. I've seen the boss block for $1200 shipped from summit, and then you have to get it machined. I can justify the extra cost of sleeving an aluminum block vs. buying the boss block and adding more weight to the nose of the car.

Be careful with coyote spec pistons in respect to the comp. Height. If you get coyote height pistons, the pistons will be a few thousandth down in the hole. (Killing CR) I think coyote comp. Height is 1.169 inches, but don't quote me on that.

I've got to apologize as of late I have been getting more and more interested in turbocharging, but I'll try to stay on track.

TBP


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TheBlackPearl

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Got the COP's installed along with new plugs.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411850745.784824.jpg

Does anyone know what this thing is and if it can be removed?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411850807.875249.jpg
It has a hose that runs to the upper drivers side connector on the intake, and has an electrical connector on it.


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05stroker

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That is part of the evap system. It is called the evap purge solenoid.
 
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corey5988

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It has a hard line that goes back to the tray under the spare tire. I removed all of it. If you do, it will need to be addressed in the tune.
 

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