timing wedge tool in colorado
- Thread starter 07graygt
- Start date
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
Where in CO? I might be able to help.
I don't have the wedge tool, but it's pretty easy to just use a garden hose.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
I don't have the wedge tool, but it's pretty easy to just use a garden hose.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
Not too far from me.... When are you looking at doing it? Can't commit at this point, but I'll definitely try.
Search for the garden hose method on here. It's pretty cut and dry. It does help to have another set of hands to hold the chains, though.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
Yeah, this weather is fucking ridiculous. How bad was it up there? It was basic blizzard conditions all day. Snowed like a mofo. I have no idea how much we got in Peyton, since it was so damned windy. We have drifts nearly 2' in some places!
Got the cams installed today. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be. I made my on tool out of 8/32 all thread and a wooden toy guy from my kids train set lol. It sounds amazing!!! But I'm throwing a 0340 code for cam sensor bank one. It only happens after the car has been running then shut it off and start again.
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
I get that code occasionally myself. Some have said it's related to a bad alternator, but mine tested out fine.
You may also want to do a compression check to make sure you got it all right. Took me a couple times out on the road to realize I was a tooth off on both sides (had less power than normal and was running rich).
You can also borrow a CPS if you want to test it out. I can drop one in the mail, or you can cruise down to the springs, check out my car, and pick up the sensor.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
I might have to do that wont be till about April though cuz I have a wedding and honey moon coming up in three weeks. Not much time to do anything right now. I'm pretty sure I didn't skip a tooth though cuz I left the gears on the chain while I swapped the cams. I can't help but wonder if maybe it's the alternator because I arced the starter putting the headers in and a few guys said that could mess it up. That and with the low idle at first start. Hopefully not though.
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
You can look at the alternator the wrong way and mess it up, hehe.... especially the older ones.
I would do a compression test before you drive it any further. If you have the older style 3v heads, you can borrow my tester. To check of your cams are off, you only really need to check one cylinder on each side. Takes 5 minutes.
Like I said, I didn't think mine were off either. I even pre-oiled my engine before I started it. Somehow, the chain still jumped.
Better to rule it out early....
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Ya I should do the test I'm almost 100% sure the drivers side is ok but I'm a little worried about the passenger side. What do you do to do the test? I'm pretty sure I have the old style because I would need new coils and plugs if I went to the ford heads.
Also I went out and started it today. It seems as the check engine light would come on after every other start. Started it up it came on. Shut off cleared code ran fine. Shut it down and restart came on. Shut it down and cleared and start no code. I read a thread that said when you change cam sensors the car needs to run for about 20 min for ECM to readjust.
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
If you haven't changed your heads, and your car is an 07, you have the old style heads. Even if you didn't, it's just a matter of getting the right adapter for the compression test kit (which you can rent from AutoZone/Advance/O'Reillys). The kits just don't come with either the 16mm (old style) or 18mm (new style) adapter.
So if you want to borrow my kit, it has everything you need. Everyone seems to have their own unique way of doing a compression test, which is highly dependent on why you're doing it (to check cam timing, to check for proper valve operation, to check piston health/ring wear, etc...). Here's how you do it:
- Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay so the fuel pump doesn't run
- Fully depress gas pedal and crank the engine for a few seconds, to clear any fuel out of the engine
- Remove the COPs and all 8 spark plugs
- Starting at cylinder 1 screw in the gauge hose with the correct adapter (it has a push button to relieve pressure... I'm OCD, so I always press it a few times before I take a reading)
- Get in the car and crank the starter, with the pedal fully depressed for a set count (4-5 seconds is good... just keep it consistent).
- Go out, read the gauge, and write down the reading for that cylinder
Normally, you would do all eight cylinders, but like I said, you can just pick a cylinder from each side and make sure they're close. At our altitude, you should get a reading of between 130-140psi if your engine is stock (9.8:1 CR).
If your cam is off on one or both sides, that number will be really low. In my case, I was only getting 90psi on all eight cylinders. Turned out the crank gear had somehow moved on me, which affected both banks.
Mine ran pretty well, considering. I took it on a test drive, and it built boost and everything. We actually went out to eat, and on the way back, it just didn't feel like it had the low-end oomph it should have. I started datalogging and noticed my fuel trims were all over the place. That's when I decided to do a compression test and found the cams were off.
As for running it for 20 minutes, I've never had to do that. It may be some archaic step in the FSM, but I really doubt that's why you'd see a code. I could be wrong, though....
You said you could mail it would you mind? I can PayPal you the money. I don't have the time to drive down right now. If not I will probably have to wait till April.I Do do want to come down and see you car though. When I first got my stang I really wanted to do a 5.4. I read all of your build thread and it gave me inspiration. I'm hoping after this racing season I will get to start my build. Gonna get a short block from ford they are only 1500.
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
No. If you have a couple pairs of hands, you can loosen things up and get it in place. You'll need to know where and how much it's off, though.
I'll try and dig up my thread on it from last year. I took some good pics that will probably help. You can just search for threads started by me in the meantime (I would, but I'm on my phone and in the middle of 20 million other things).
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
Sorry, I didn't see this post.
Yes, I can email it to you, but if you're gonna do that, you can just order the adapter and do the free tool rental from a local auto parts store:
http://www.etoolcart.com/lisle-compression-test-adapter-for-ford-triton-engine-20380.aspx
If you want me to send to you, I can. I just think your money is better spent getting the dang adapter, which no one ever seems to have.
Flapjack
Lunatic engine swapper
Yes. Look for a big difference in short-term fuel trims (STFT) across both sides. Keep in mind, fuel trims are pretty wonky as the car is warming up. You should let it warm up completely, then check. Also, it is normal to have 3-5% with a cammed motor. You're looking for a steady 10% (or more) difference between the two banks.
Similar threads
Support us!
Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!
Click Here For Details
Sponsor Links
