Tires

[CammedS197]

Seems to be. Mine repeatedly sees upward of 6000 rpm - down the faster straights my 5900 upshift indicator is blinking and I'm in 4th gear (1.00:1). That's about 125 mph on tires that are listed at 25.9" tall, or about where you'd be with 3.73 axle gears and 27" tall tires.

265's will get you started, but I think you'll outgrow 265's on 9.5" wheels soon enough, on 9" wheels even faster. That's actually a decent street combination - I'm currently running 265/40-18's on 18x9.5 wheels for street duty. But even though the actual tread width of these 265/40's is the same as my 285/35's and they're the same make and model tire, the grip, response, and general "feel" are all noticeably "off" from what the 285/35's on 18x11's provide (same day, same road testing). So which will it be, two small steps up from 235's or one giant step now?


I'm surprised you could still source the blue brake fluid, as it was recalled a couple of years ago specifically because of its color. And I think Florida had been aware of the matter further back than that.


Norm

Okay, so my plan is to start out the 265/40/18 or 35 profile depending on what I can find in the few tires laid out for me and go up to 285's when worn out.

Its no longer blue, got it on ebay. I just still call it super blue lol.

 

[Mach2burnout]

180*F, according to Tire Rack.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=66

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With that said then there is no way that "normal" daily driving is going to heat up an nt01 enough to heat cycle it out. I mean check your tire temps at your next auto X event and report back.


Sent from iPhone

 

[Norm Peterson]

So 170° - 180° for one thermal cycle is sufficient to get a tire adequately heat-cycled in for competition. That says nothing about the further accumulation of heat-related effects once the tire is put into use, not about the temperatures reached, nor about the number of times it is reached. One cycle to 135° won't contribute much, but what about 100 such cycles? What about driving times that greatly exceed the length of time that Tire Rack runs each tire in their heat cycling machine?

I really think this is more of a fatigue situation than an all-or-nothing "170°+ or it doesn't matter" kind of thing.


Norm

 

[Sky Render]

With that said then there is no way that "normal" daily driving is going to heat up an nt01 enough to heat cycle it out. I mean check your tire temps at your next auto X event and report back.


Sent from iPhone

How about you daily-drive a set of NT-01 for a few weeks then go to an autocross and see how sticky they still are?

Like Norm said, it's a cumulative effect that happens with soft compounds.

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[Mach2burnout]

How about you daily-drive a set of NT-01 for a few weeks then go to an autocross and see how sticky they still are?

Like Norm said, it's a cumulative effect that happens with soft compounds.

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I've autox'ed a set for over 2 years + 1 track day and they still grip pretty damn good.


Oh and about that stickiness you keep talking about, the nt01's have to really heat up before you can call them "sticky".

Have you ever checked your tire temps after auto xing or street driving? If not you should. You will be surprised at how low the temps actually are.


Sent from iPhone

 

[Sky Render]

Are we arguing about the same thing here? Do you actually daily drive on NT-01s?

 

[Mach2burnout]

Are we arguing about the same thing here? Do you actually daily drive on NT-01s?

Sorry, I didn't mean to argue at all. I do not daily on nt01s however I do auto X on them. I was only in disagreement about the heat cycling of the nt01s on the street. I agree that they will wear out quicker and the life will be shortened due to tread wear. But not heat cycling. I say this due to my experience with these tires at auto X and on track. They take a while to heat up.
I just had surgery but, when I get well I will test the tires I have as they have some age on them. I will street drive them and check temps and auto X them and check temps. Then we will have some real data to discuss. It will be a few weeks before I'm well enough.


Sent from iPhone

 

[Norm Peterson]

Datalogged lateral g's, old vs new, might be more useful . . .


Norm

 

[Sky Render]

Sorry, I didn't mean to argue at all. I do not daily on nt01s however I do auto X on them. I was only in disagreement about the heat cycling of the nt01s on the street. I agree that they will wear out quicker and the life will be shortened due to tread wear. But not heat cycling. I say this due to my experience with these tires at auto X and on track. They take a while to heat up.
I just had surgery but, when I get well I will test the tires I have as they have some age on them. I will street drive them and check temps and auto X them and check temps. Then we will have some real data to discuss. It will be a few weeks before I'm well enough.


Sent from iPhone

Forgetaboutit. I need a pyrometer. Because I wonder how much heat 20-30 minutes of Interstate driving at ~70 mph puts into tires vs a 45-second autocross course.

 

[CammedS197]

Haven't heard anything about the r888, Good or no?

 

[Pentalab]

Forgetaboutit. I need a pyrometer. Because I wonder how much heat 20-30 minutes of Interstate driving at ~70 mph puts into tires vs a 45-second autocross course.

Those relatively cheap Fluke 62 point and shoot IR devices should do the job for you. I use mine for all sorts of stuff. Mine will display the peak highest temp, and hold it.... then also (on the same display) the actual surface temp in real time. It will work on anything. Great for finding exhaust leaks, poor insulation spots in homes, etc. Can also be switched from F to C. Good up to about 3'. Some versions you can download to a laptop etc, have greater range, will also simultaneously display the lowest + highest temps and actual real time temps. I use it for HVAC applications as well as some electronic applications, esp with high voltage power supplies, heat sinks etc. It's a handy piece of test gear to have around, comes with a nylon case that fits on your belt.

 

[jraskell]

Years ago I daily drove NT555R2s. After around 2000 miles they were no longer a competition tire. After about 5000 miles they were the equivalent of Sumitomos and I replaced them. The NT01s may be different, but I doubt it.

 

[modernbeat]

Those relatively cheap Fluke 62 point and shoot IR devices should do the job for you....

Those IR point and shoot devices are good for seeing relative differences in temps between sections of the tire, but they are not appropriate to see actual max temp the tire has reached.

To measure a tire temp that affects a "heat cycle" you have to see if the CORE of the tire has reached the temp you are looking for. The only way to measure that is to use a probe pyrometer and immediately pull off the track and stop while a helper probes the tire. The immediacy is important, as the core cools fairly quickly and the tread cools even faster.

As a tuning device (alignment and pressures), you can use the IR guns. But for real tire testing (do you have the right tire? Is it still within it's competitive life?) the probe is the only way to go. To the the IR sensors in their best use, read what Paul from Witchdoctor Motorsports did to dial in his tires on his GT1 Camaro.

Real Time Tire Temps