torque arm

pieperz06

i need to get blown
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"Ah, I see" said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw...

Okay, just a very friendly word of advice... Before you spend one more dollar on the car, think long and hard about where you want to end up. You're looking at three DRASTICALLY different rule sets, and as we all know, to win, you need to build to the limit of the rules. For example, JUST the SLA and TA conversions will cost you 34 points, with NOTHING ELSE DONE. That means no headers/midpipe (+3), no CAI (+1), and no other little bits... That will put you into TTB, with no room for anything but street tires, up against EVOs, M3s and C5Z06s all on Hoosiers... The SLA/TA is illegal in CMC, and that means you've just built yourself into AI, which will be a very expensive class to run in... Think NA motor, running E85 with an aggressive tune to make the power/weight numbers...

If I were you, I would start with a rule set that interests you, figure out what it will cost to campaign a season in that class, then figure your build costs. If AI is where you want to be, then go for it, but realize going in that the cars cost a LOT of money to build, even to just 90% of the rule book. Add to that the running expense, and it adds up fast.

yah i was reading up on TT a while back and even where i am now i think i would be in a bad place. with that being said i would like to eventually like to be in AI and i know it is going to take a while to build a car to that. i have looked in to buying a already built car but my problem is i have nothing to trailer it with. so my plan is to get a beater then fix up my car and keep it street legal and keep doing DE's and getting better. then once i have a tow vehicle i could finish the build to a AI car. i am also going to want to keep autoxing the car but i have done some research in to what class i would be in and i think i would be in xp if i did the griggs stuff because of the different k member/front cradle and with out it i would be in CP which i think i could be decent in but im not sure and i have never even seen an xprepaird car.

i am just wanting to do every thing once and not jack around with buying stuff more than once (unless it is broken). i know i would not be at a point where i would be getting that 10/10 every lap out but that is all some thing that can come. i am also tired of messing around with used parts on stuff that can ware out but i learned that lesson.

all in all is that my current car will eventually be a race prepared car it is more of what the time line will be.
 

pieperz06

i need to get blown
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thats a bad ass video

hey SGD i was thinking about my sounds from the suspention could it be like a worn out ball joint or some thing like that i have never checked any of that stuff on my car and have like 62k miles and like 6 hpde and like 9 autox,s and im wondering if i wore some thing out since it keeps getting worse it
 

SoundGuyDave

This Space For Rent
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Obviously, diagnosing a "clunk" over the internet is impossible, but... Some of the usual suspects that I've found with the S197 chassis are:

Upper strut mounts (stock design)
swaybar end link nuts
ball joints
tie rod ends
control arm bushings shot

Go through and check each of those, and you'll probably find your culprit. Also, when you have the front end apart, verify you still have a gas charge in the dampers... I had a D-Spec go on me as well, and wound up with SIGNIFICANT play in the shaft...
 

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