transmission/clutch problem?

[DarkFireGT]

I think the 5k launches fried my clutch, but I'm not sure. Don't know a whole lot about that stuff.

Here's what it does (I'm going from memory. It's been 2 months since I've been able to drive it due to weather):

1. Coming off idle, I can hear a clunk when I let the clutch out, and feel it as well.

2. Shifting above 5500 1st to 2nd is pretty much impossible. It grinds like heck.

Both of these issues showed up the last time I went to the track, during the first run. I had no problems shifting around 6500 before this. I have the torque limiters also. I've checked around the car as best I can, and I cannot see any broken mounts, and when I rev the car, the engine doesn't seem to move any more than it previously did. The torque limiters are in tact and the mounts on the tranny have not broken, either.

I know it's hard to diagnose over the internet, but I'm a bit broke right now so I don't have the money to take it to a mechanic (plus I don't wanna get boned). Anyone have any ideas?

 

[SteveP]

sounds like u might have melted your clutch to the flywheel or it may just been gone. Do you have pressure in your pedal? Were you doing burnouts in the waterbox? what tires did you run?

 

[DarkFireGT]

Yes, I have pressure. I do my burnouts just after the water box, and I dump the clutch around 4500-5000. I have line locks, so I don't sit on the clutch, just dump it.

I will say that last year I tried to start in 2nd gear once, on the M&H 325/45/18 and the tires didn't spin and I got some smoke from the engine bay. I figured the clutch was toast at that time. But I let it cool down and it never gave me a problem again, until this. So that's why I'm fairly certain it's the clutch, but I wanted someone with more knowledge on this to confirm.

 

[anticubicle]

Hmmmm. I had a similar problem and my slave cylinder was leaking horribly. Also needed a clutch + flywheel but that was just another thing added to the problem. Make sure you check it when you do the tear down.

If you're going to be doing 5K launches, look into a good clutch. I love my Spec 3+

 

[DarkFireGT]

Well, I think it's my tune causing the bogging, which is why I was launching so high. I've heard of other people with the Bamachips race tune having that problem and Doug fixed it. So hopefully I won't need to launch so high after I get it all fixed up.

So you guys think I need a flywheel, clutch, and slave cylinder?

 

[Freaknazty]

9 outa 10 yep , another thing id look into is getting your flywheel refaced if its not warped to shit , just about any machine shop will do it for 30-40 bucks ...

 

[anticubicle]

9 outa 10 yep , another thing id look into is getting your flywheel refaced if its not warped to shit , just about any machine shop will do it for 30-40 bucks ...

With how cheap flywheels are I'd just upgrade it while he's in there. I wish I did it the first time.

 

[Sactown]

1. Coming off idle, I can hear a clunk when I let the clutch out, and feel it as well. Have to ask but are you sure the clunking noise isn't coming from the rear end when you let the clutch out and it engages enough to spin the drive line? Dumping the clutch with those tires you are running is pretty hard on the rear end.

2. Shifting above 5500 1st to 2nd is pretty much impossible. It grinds like heck. I had a similiar issue with my Specs II+ clutch, when I replaced that with the Mcleod RST the problems went away.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Yeah, if I'm going to do the clutch, I'm definitely doing the flywheel at the same time.

It's possible it's my rear end, but I only get the clunk at low speeds, and that shouldn't cause gear lockout.

 

[DarkFireGT]

And while we're on it, what would you suggest for a clutch and flywheel option? Mostly a street car, with a trip once or twice a month to the strip. No power adders (though I made add some spray down the line).

 

[SteveP]

I was launching mine at 55k with the DFX and FORD Racing Alum flywheel. It was amazing too!!! No bog, spin, nothing.

But because of the tires I was using(MT ET street Slicks) and i did a burn out without getting them wet(Yes i know) and in 1st gear. I melted my clutch on its first run with these tires.

Trying the RAM900 HD next.

Blown a Spec 3 and a DFX already

 

[Freaknazty]

With how cheap flywheels are I'd just upgrade it while he's in there. I wish I did it the first time.

yea but either way you look at it its still 30 stock resurfaced < 250 spec < 350 spec aluminum ...... and if he ever decided to go forged he will have to buy a new 8 bolt ...... its his cash whatever he wants to do lol

 

[MOC826]

sounds like it may be the synchros??? not sure, but pretty sure that when the synchros go out its impossible to shift at high rpms.. just a thought. my buddys car had the same problem

 

[DarkFireGT]

If it was only the shifting issue, I'd figure syncros too. But the clunk appear at the same time, which is not the syncros.

I do not plan on doing any bottom end work, or going over 500HP. Probably won't go over 450HP.

 

[94tbird]

its hard to say till you remove the transmission and look in there. What are your mods? Power Adder? If your going with a new clutch i recommend a spec 3+, the 2+ is garbage for these cars because of the weight. sure it can handle the power fine but the weight reduces the holding power of it tremendously. also stay away from the non plus series specs as well. the 3+ spec is the way to go. While your in there replace the slave as well. its cheap insurance to having to pull the tranny a second time

 

[Sactown]

If it was only the shifting issue, I'd figure syncros too. But the clunk appear at the same time, which is not the syncros.

I do not plan on doing any bottom end work, or going over 500HP. Probably won't go over 450HP.

Personally I am running a Mcleod RST Twin Disc and Mcleod steel flywheel, rated at 800hp (crank), pedal pressure is just like stock and the car shifts fantastic. The Mcleod is a little more expensive than single disc setups, but if you don't mind spending the extra cash it is well worth it.

+1 on staying away from the Specs II+, specs 3 seems to be fine and would probably work just fine for what you are doing.

 

[94tbird]

Personally I am running a Mcleod RST Twin Disc and Mcleod steel flywheel, rated at 800hp (crank), pedal pressure is just like stock and the car shifts fantastic. The Mcleod is a little more expensive than single disc setups, but if you don't mind spending the extra cash it is well worth it.

+1 on staying away from the Specs II+, specs 3 seems to be fine and would probably work just fine for what you are doing.

3+, not the 3. the 3 will fail too due to weight and material it is composed of

 

[94tbird]

Personally I am running a Mcleod RST Twin Disc and Mcleod steel flywheel, rated at 800hp (crank), pedal pressure is just like stock and the car shifts fantastic. The Mcleod is a little more expensive than single disc setups, but if you don't mind spending the extra cash it is well worth it.

+1 on staying away from the Specs II+, specs 3 seems to be fine and would probably work just fine for what you are doing.

By the way welcome to the best S197 site out there