What have you done to your mustang today?

Gabe

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Well let us know if you install this pump. I noticed it’s not compatible with E85.

It's not but I'm on 93 and don't plan on going to anything else. If I ever decide to go crazy, a new fuel system will have to do, and replacing a pump that's costing me $180 including shipping, tax, and a 3-yr warranty is not something that would matter at that time.
Just placed the order.
Once it arrives I'll have to see about getting my fuel level low to install it, then schedule a time to bring it to a local tuner here in NC. Been chatting with him and he thinks this pump will work great. Can't wait to get this all finished.
 

crjackson

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Once it arrives I'll have to see about getting my fuel level low to install it, then schedule a time to bring it to a local tuner here in NC. Been chatting with him and he thinks this pump will work great. Can't wait to get this all finished.
Will this eliminate the need for a boost-a-pump device?
 

Gabe

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Will this eliminate the need for a boost-a-pump device?

Yes, that's the idea.

Cuz while I thought I had my fuel pump/BAP issues fixed last year, I tried to start my car a few weeks ago and the engine was cranking strong, but the fuel pump wasn't working. Not priming or anything.
I bypassed the BAP and it started right up. And I know my connections are good. I tried other relays, still the only thing that got the car to start was bypassing the BAP.

So I'm looking to eliminate it and upgrade the pump itself.
 

Forty61

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Got it inspected, gave it a good “Italian tuneup” and then proceeded to whack a squirrel at 80mph so now I need to get creative with a bumper repair..
 

Q1KSILVER

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I almost went with that pump.
What are you installing it in?
Have you installed your pump? I am running into some issues at the moment. So originally fuel pump fuse is 15A, since I am using a fuel pump booster I upgraded to a 30A fuse. Using this fuel pump and a VMP booster, I am burning 30A fuses. Seems like I will need to upgrade wiring to prevent this from happening.
 

JC SSP

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Hi Team, I submitted my oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis.

I have never done this before but since the 4.6L is known for timing chain, valve train issues... I sent out a sample to see if there was any wear or metal particles.

At 125K engine appears to be very strong. I religiously use Motocraft FL-820S oil filter, Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic and I fill up the new oil filter with Lucas oil synthetic stabilizer to prevent dry start up after the change. FYI I am still planning on doing the chains, tensioners, etc.

Attached is the report.
 

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  • 05 MUSTANG GT-240106 (1).pdf
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GriffX

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At 125K engine appears to be very strong. I religiously use Motocraft FL-820S oil filter, Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic and I fill up the new oil filter with Lucas oil synthetic stabilizer to prevent dry start up after the change. FYI I am still planning on doing the chains, tensioners, etc.
To avoid dry start I use the clear flood mode - start with full trottle, which shuts off the injectors, crank 3 seconds, normal start.
 

Gabe

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Have you installed your pump? I am running into some issues at the moment. So originally fuel pump fuse is 15A, since I am using a fuel pump booster I upgraded to a 30A fuse. Using this fuel pump and a VMP booster, I am burning 30A fuses. Seems like I will need to upgrade wiring to prevent this from happening.

I haven't yet. Found out that my tank was full and there's no way to syphon any gas out. Been letting it run idling every other weekend to burn off the gas. Down to about 5/8 now.
Not sure about the fuse. I'm sure I upgraded mine too, but mine might be a 40A since the nap is a 40A unit
 

GriffX

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Changed both tie rod ends because the boot cracked. Cheap rubber combined with a bell shaped designed, not made to last 10 years. The new ones, made in Korea, have at least pre-formed rubber design.
Took me one hour per side.
I read in a Mercedes workshop manual that you should spray all nuts and open threads at suspension parts with wax spray, which I'm doing now.

CIMG0638 (Klein).JPG
 

DieHarder

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Changed both tie rod ends because the boot cracked. Cheap rubber combined with a bell shaped designed, not made to last 10 years. The new ones, made in Korea, have at least pre-formed rubber design.
Took me one hour per side.
I read in a Mercedes workshop manual that you should spray all nuts and open threads at suspension parts with wax spray, which I'm doing now.

View attachment 94222

Get Moog replacements. Lifetime guarantee.
 

AHaze

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I haven't yet. Found out that my tank was full and there's no way to syphon any gas out. Been letting it run idling every other weekend to burn off the gas. Down to about 5/8 now.
Not sure about the fuse. I'm sure I upgraded mine too, but mine might be a 40A since the nap is a 40A unit
Disconnect the fuel line from the hat, clamp a length of rubber line in its place and run it into a suitable container. Bypass the pump control module to provide power to the pump.
 

JC SSP

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I second the motion. Moog also has greasable zerk fittings.
 
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Miker

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I went with Moog when I did my front end. I didn't know they had a lifetime warranty. I also went with Koni STR-T shocks and struts that I understand have lifetime warranties. I have no paper receipts for either since I bought them online. Any warranty might be a problem obtaining.
 

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