What is the best version or year 5.0 ?

wbt

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Your choice isn't bad at all. The F150 and the Mustang Coyote are mechanically identical except for the intake cams, 1/2 point down in compression and a different intake manifold.

The controls pack for the Coyote doesn't look as friendly as for the LS engine but, it is available, if not particularly cheap.

Pretty sure the intake manifold is the same. The truck motor doesn't have the integrated windage tray gasket the Mustang version does.

The front cover is also different.
 

JeremyH

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Also with your goal of 700rwhp, I would look into modifying the block. That's where the cylinder walls start cracking into the coolant jackets.
 

ford20

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Ron - I understand what you're getting at, however they way you phrased the "choose the better one" is not considered Tech here.

However, there is not a big difference in the motors that I'm aware of other than the loss of the oil squirters in mid MY 2012 IIRC


700 Whp on a stock long block is pushing it

I don't know what "SBE" stands for.



to other members - Ron is a founding member here, created the "spydershaft" take it easy.

Not to mention he had the most badass N/A 3V in the country. I wonder what ever happened to it.
 

Mountain

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There was no real power bump between 2011/12 engines and 2013/14 engines. The 2011-14 engines for the Mustang made the same power. The "bump" is mostly marketing...

And Ford went back and forth with the the squirters on MY13 engines.
 

ChevyKiller

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Also with your goal of 700rwhp, I would look into modifying the block. That's where the cylinder walls start cracking into the coolant jackets.

Ditto Jeremy. I have been looking into a new build and my hesitation has been the block options in general. I personally don't think any of them are factory ready for 'big' power. Having said that, a 700 rwhp goal seems easy enough Ron, since you already got the F150 block, my advice would be to just swap over for some added protection to some ARP Mainstuds & ARP block side bolts or equivalent.

After the basics on the block - you already know billet beams and some good race rod and main bearings followed up with a stout assembly. In my mistakes and leanings, I try to go with 50% the expected strength so I would build for 1050 rwhp to make 700 IMO.
 
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