Where is the clutch master cylinder on a 2011 GT

[Rob72]

???

 

[Hatchman]

If its like the '05s, its on the driver's side of the tranny.

 

[908ssp]

On my 2010 the clutch master is inside the car under the dash on the upper part of the firewall. You can see the plunger goes directly into the barrel of the cylinder. Both the clutch and brakes share a reservoir.

 

[Rob72]

^I think that I have the same set up. Was wondering how to change the line between to clutch mc and slave cylinder without the fluid draining from the reservoir.

 

[908ssp]

Well you can't. But you don't loose all the fluid as the reservoir is divided into a big section for the brakes and small section for the clutch. Just so happens I changed my line just last week and it didn't help my low pedal problem. I had to pull the transmission and shim the slave cylinder now it is much better. The end that the line plugs into is in the engine compartment and the other end goes on 90 degree plastic fitting on the side of the bell housing. Be real careful with the fitting sticking out of the bell housing. Ford has some goofy little plastic fitting holding the male end in the bell housing if you push too hard on the 90 degree adapter it breaks and the male end moves into the bell housing. You can still grab it with needle nose but it makes it all a real pain. The manual says to replace that plastic doohickey any time you change the slave cylinder probably cause it is too fragile. Since I pulled my transmission I redid the whole thing. I put a custom made male fitting in from the outside with a C clip inside so it can't break. I put a block and bleeder circuit inside the bell housing to make bleeding easier.

Good Luck.

 

[bradleyem]

^I think that I have the same set up. Was wondering how to change the line between to clutch mc and slave cylinder without the fluid draining from the reservoir.

You can't do it without losing some fluid, but you can keep from losing all of the fluid.

1. Before you disconnect any lines, take the cap off from the brake reservoir. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the opening (maybe double it up) so that when you put the cap back on it seals air tight. This will keep the fluid from draining because of the vent in the cap.

2. have another piece of plastic wrap and a good rubber band ready to wrap arond the fitting at the slave cylinder on the transmission so that you can seal it off there when you disconnect it.

You will still lose some fluid, but not as much. Try not to let the reservoir go completely dry.

The clutch is "self bleeding". When you re-connect everything, make sure that the reservoir is full (and that the plastic wrap is removed) and keep checking it while bleeding. Jack up the drivers side of the car about 10'' from the ground and slowly pump the clutch pedal in and out for about 5-10 minutes. It should take a good 4-5 seconds to complete one down or up stroke. Once the pedal starts to feel better and more solid just increase your stroke speed. It should take a total of about 10-15 minutes at best to bleed it this way. The reason you pump slow is to allow any air to escape up through the port in the master cylinder on the up-stroke. You need to go slow on the down stroke too so the air in the system remains stable and doesn't go crazy all through the line.

 

[bradleyem]

Oh, and also....

The little wire retainer clips that hold the fittings in....

BE CAREFUL not to lose them.....you can't buy just the clips, and you then have to buy the entire hose just to get the clips. I learned that lesson the hard way.

The trick is to use a small screwdriver to pop them out just enough so that you can get needle nose pliers on them to take them out. When you put them back in, put the clip in first. Then the fitting will just snap in place when you push it on.

 

[Rob72]

Thanks everyone.