Ford Performance Intake Hardware Question

Deathstang II

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About a month back I purchased a used one of these for practically nothing. Problem is, no fuel bypass pipe (already got), and no hardware.

The hardware is the issue, from what I gather using the install PDF provided by Ford I need:

x2 M6x110 Long bolts (Center Intake Bolts)
x2 M6x50 (Front Intake Bolts)
x6 M6x35 (Remaining Intake Bolts)
x4 M6x25 (Throttle Body)

Originally these came with head cap bolts which I find meh...So my question is could I go flange on these instead? It would beat me having to use any washers, or is there some sort of reason behind Fords decision for using Head Caps? Thanks in regard.
 

teeje

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About a month back I purchased a used one of these for practically nothing. Problem is, no fuel bypass pipe (already got), and no hardware.

The hardware is the issue, from what I gather using the install PDF provided by Ford I need:

x2 M6x110 Long bolts (Center Intake Bolts)
x2 M6x50 (Front Intake Bolts)
x6 M6x35 (Remaining Intake Bolts)
x4 M6x25 (Throttle Body)

Originally these came with head cap bolts which I find meh...So my question is could I go flange on these instead? It would beat me having to use any washers, or is there some sort of reason behind Fords decision for using Head Caps? Thanks in regard.
Doesn't really matter. Use any bolt that fits. Some of the holes are small though so some holes may require them so the head of the bolt fits properly

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 

Deathstang II

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Doesn't really matter. Use any bolt that fits. Some of the holes are small though so some holes may require them so the head of the bolt fits properly

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Gotcha, I went ahead and picked up the flanged hardware so we shall see if it becomes problematic. You familiar if the intake requires a custom tune or not? Im wondering if I can get away with turning off the Charge motion plates and that'll be enough. Thanks.
 

Nuke

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...You familiar if the intake requires a custom tune or not? Im wondering if I can get away with turning off the Charge motion plates and that'll be enough...

IIRC, the FRPP intake came from Ford with a (rather benign) tune. I suspect you'll throw a code with one.
 

GlassTop09

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Gotcha, I went ahead and picked up the flanged hardware so we shall see if it becomes problematic. You familiar if the intake requires a custom tune or not? Im wondering if I can get away with turning off the Charge motion plates and that'll be enough. Thanks.
As far as setting a code for the intake manifold itself, turning off the CMCV's in the tune is all that is needed.

Now as far as the airflow characteristics differences between the OEM vs the FRPP, this is where a tune will be needed to make fueling corrections to prevent other issues from happening, especially if you intend to be doing any WOT hits or any part throttle hits (read spirited driving here) as whenever you're in this operational area the PCM will go into OL fueling which is static (meaning the PCM will not be making adaptive fueling changes according to O2 sensor feedback from the existing MAF readings) so w\ this FRPP running on the OEM tune the increased airflow from the FRPP IM will lean the engine out under load & cause damage.
If you stay in closed throttle CL operation (read normal driving range from 0-2500 RPM's here) then the PCM will be in adaptive fueling using the AFR target of 14.64 so the PCM will make the necessary fueling corrections to the MAF readings using the O2 sensor feedback to maintain the AFR target....IF all else is operating properly (EVAP CPV not leaking or stuck open, no other vacuum leaks, etc) to not cause the control to swing outside of the min-max STFT-LTFT ranges or you can end up w\ other codes being set. So to ensure this doesn't happen it is best to get retuned for the FRPP intake manifold.
Also, if you just use a tuner (such as SCT X4) to turn off the CMCV's in the OEM tune to use this FRPP IM (or even using the OEM 05-08 IM w\ Steeda CMDP's), the PCM will default to using all IMRC closed maps (normal driving w\ emissions focus) & not use any IMRC open maps (power maps above 3,000 RPM's) for all RPM operational ranges so you'd lose mid range & top end power as well as lean out w\o a retune to correct all this.

I could have just typed get it tuned....but I sensed that an explanation of why you need a retune was in order for understanding purposes.

It's not just as simple as it appears to look.

Hope this helps.
 

Deathstang II

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As far as setting a code for the intake manifold itself, turning off the CMCV's in the tune is all that is needed.

Now as far as the airflow characteristics differences between the OEM vs the FRPP, this is where a tune will be needed to make fueling corrections to prevent other issues from happening, especially if you intend to be doing any WOT hits or any part throttle hits (read spirited driving here) as whenever you're in this operational area the PCM will go into OL fueling which is static (meaning the PCM will not be making adaptive fueling changes according to O2 sensor feedback from the existing MAF readings) so w\ this FRPP running on the OEM tune the increased airflow from the FRPP IM will lean the engine out under load & cause damage.
If you stay in closed throttle CL operation (read normal driving range from 0-2500 RPM's here) then the PCM will be in adaptive fueling using the AFR target of 14.64 so the PCM will make the necessary fueling corrections to the MAF readings using the O2 sensor feedback to maintain the AFR target....IF all else is operating properly (EVAP CPV not leaking or stuck open, no other vacuum leaks, etc) to not cause the control to swing outside of the min-max STFT-LTFT ranges or you can end up w\ other codes being set. So to ensure this doesn't happen it is best to get retuned for the FRPP intake manifold.
Also, if you just use a tuner (such as SCT X4) to turn off the CMCV's in the OEM tune to use this FRPP IM (or even using the OEM 05-08 IM w\ Steeda CMDP's), the PCM will default to using all IMRC closed maps (normal driving w\ emissions focus) & not use any IMRC open maps (power maps above 3,000 RPM's) for all RPM operational ranges so you'd lose mid range & top end power as well as lean out w\o a retune to correct all this.

I could have just typed get it tuned....but I sensed that an explanation of why you need a retune was in order for understanding purposes.

It's not just as simple as it appears to look.

Hope this helps.

Thats a great source of info I appreciate your knowledge. Im fairly new with these newer computers and how they're more in tune with the car than my '98 was unfortunately. I understood a handful of that, figured fuel/air ratio would have to be adjusted accordingly and wasn't as simple as a CMCV delete. So long story short really is I need an actual custom tune for it. I suspect Ill probably be going that free tunes for life BAMA program as I have other future modifications I'd like to do when I get into some more funds. For now going to put this project on hold then, thank you everyone for your input.

Ill keep this reply in mind when I have to revert back to anything.
 
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Deathstang II

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If you love your car, do NOT use Bama for any tuning whatsoever! good luck

Any tuner recommendations that have a similar tune for life type program that also works with SCT x4? Can't be bothered to keep dyno tuning my car if I may add more mods in the near future, becomes costly.
 

DieHarder

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Lito comes to mind. You're going to have to add a WB O2 sensor and AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) gauge as well as set up a laptop computer to provide him the logs he needs to run tests and revise the tune files. It's actually a rather simple process. He sends you a tune based on what mods/equipment you have; you drive your car with a laptop to log parameters/performance/behavior and he sends you a new tune until he's satisfied that your car is running to his satisfaction. In my case only took an initial idle log and 2 runs to get mine running well and it's supercharged. Each car/configuration however is different. The important part is the tune is written for your car and modified only for your car. Additionally, in my experience and I'm sure a lot of others the cost is only half to a third what many dyno shops will charge you and he makes minor changes for free. I'm certain you'll be satisfied.

If you need recommendations/set up for equipment and software I'd be glad to describe my setup but I'm sure it's already somewhere on the site. If not, several others have similar setups or I'd be happy to repost it again if you need it.

Good luck.
 

Pentalab

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Stay far away from the.... 'Bama tunes for life'. Bama can't tune their way out of a paper bag. 2 x local stang owners used Bama, and both were NA cars. I never saw such a god awful disaster...right from day 1.....and they are both screwed up even worse now.

If you want it done right..and dead on, get Lito to tune it.
 

Deathstang II

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Lito comes to mind. You're going to have to add a WB O2 sensor and AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio) gauge as well as set up a laptop computer to provide him the logs he needs to run tests and revise the tune files. It's actually a rather simple process. He sends you a tune based on what mods/equipment you have; you drive your car with a laptop to log parameters/performance/behavior and he sends you a new tune until he's satisfied that your car is running to his satisfaction. In my case only took an initial idle log and 2 runs to get mine running well and it's supercharged. Each car/configuration however is different. The important part is the tune is written for your car and modified only for your car. Additionally, in my experience and I'm sure a lot of others the cost is only half to a third what many dyno shops will charge you and he makes minor changes for free. I'm certain you'll be satisfied.

If you need recommendations/set up for equipment and software I'd be glad to describe my setup but I'm sure it's already somewhere on the site. If not, several others have similar setups or I'd be happy to repost it again if you need it.

Good luck.

Software recommendations would be appreciated as I've never really dived into the tuning realm until this point, gonna need to grab me an OBD2 to USB adaptor. Also where I might be able to get ahold of him? Can't find a whole lot on google.

Stay far away from the.... 'Bama tunes for life'. Bama can't tune their way out of a paper bag. 2 x local stang owners used Bama, and both were NA cars. I never saw such a god awful disaster...right from day 1.....and they are both screwed up even worse now.

If you want it done right..and dead on, get Lito to tune it.

Dually noted, I get mixed results from people who use Bama vs don't. Makes sense why they'd offer a cheap tune solution; you get what you pay for in the end.
 

GlassTop09

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Well at least 1 good thing that the BAMA Tunes for Life deal has going for it is the purchase of the SCT X4 tuner device that you'd need to have to get Lito tuned............

Don't think some folks would even think bout buying a separate tuner, especially a SCT tuner, if it weren't for the BAMA deal AM offers.

This includes myself as after I got my Stang I jumped for the BAMA deal as well cause at that time I didn't know of any shop anywhere in my neck of the woods that had a dyno\did any performance tuning (closest known at that time was 200 mi away) nor of anyone online so I used BAMA tunes for upgrades until I found that I could just use the SCT X4 tuner thru the Options section to make the changes for pretty much most all bolt-on parts to the OEM tune file thus didn't really need BAMA to write any tune updates for my specific upgrade parts, just needed the device so I stopped using the BAMA tune files, went back to the OEM tune file then made the changes to the OEM tune file thru the Options section for my CAI, TB, IM & LTH's. Didn't think to switch the OEM tune to 91 oct from 87 oct at the time but this could be done as well. Car ran just fine w\ no issues but it clearly wasn't optimized.......

That's how I rolled until I ran across my now current local tuner by accident & he uses HP Tuners stuff so I retired the SCT X4 for now but w\ it I do have the option to switch to Lito if needed.
 

Deathstang II

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Well at least 1 good thing that the BAMA Tunes for Life deal has going for it is the purchase of the SCT X4 tuner device that you'd need to have to get Lito tuned............

Don't think some folks would even think bout buying a separate tuner, especially a SCT tuner, if it weren't for the BAMA deal AM offers.

This includes myself as after I got my Stang I jumped for the BAMA deal as well cause at that time I didn't know of any shop anywhere in my neck of the woods that had a dyno\did any performance tuning (closest known at that time was 200 mi away) nor of anyone online so I used BAMA tunes for upgrades until I found that I could just use the SCT X4 tuner thru the Options section to make the changes for pretty much most all bolt-on parts to the OEM tune file thus didn't really need BAMA to write any tune updates for my specific upgrade parts, just needed the device so I stopped using the BAMA tune files, went back to the OEM tune file then made the changes to the OEM tune file thru the Options section for my CAI, TB, IM & LTH's. Didn't think to switch the OEM tune to 91 oct from 87 oct at the time but this could be done as well. Car ran just fine w\ no issues but it clearly wasn't optimized.......

That's how I rolled until I ran across my now current local tuner by accident & he uses HP Tuners stuff so I retired the SCT X4 for now but w\ it I do have the option to switch to Lito if needed.

Yeah I'd like to throw on a CAI, BBK body, and my Ford performance intake on my car, but the intake alone would require me to tune it since I dont believe turning off the charge plates is enough.

Just want to throw the shit on the car so its already hooked up. Like you, at least it remotely works, but isn't well optimized.
 

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