Recent content by Clown9

Car starting with stock TB is a negative. Engine turns over, runs for a second, then acts like I switched the key off lmao

Coolant levels have stayed the same for the entirety of me owning the car Edit: Forgot to add that this was in like 30º degree weather.

So I tested the TPS voltage with the meter turned to manual mode and once the pedal goes about 75% of the way it shows 0 Volts (Which I'm guessing is because it is moving from one sensor to the next). Still clicks and goes down to about .7 volts when releasing the pedal tho. I turned meter back...

I now realize I articulated my words in a not so efficient manner. I very slowly pushed the pedal down to WOT and then sloooowly released it. Kept it at CT and WOT for a few seconds then slowy pushed and released.

I'll retest with manual mode, thanks for suggestion 8) Held the pedal steady the entire time. Like I said towards the end I showed those blips more often and it was slightly past closed throttle. You think a dip close to WOT would cause idling problems??

Just to clarify that is right behind the passenger's side O2 sensor and converter. In forscan and in the Revx tuner there is no such thing as TPS voltage. Only thing it'll show is the TP1 and TP2 voltage. Had to get creative with my the multimeter. Now from what I recorded it seems right around...

So with this post I will either be heralded as the guy who eats glue or as the guy with the continuing issue. Also apologize for the vertical filming as my phone only seems to be able to save in vert mode :facepalm: I started the car so it could get to operating temperature before I did any...

Just got home from work, will be trying this out. Will do that as well. One thing I should mention is when I drive I have the terrible habit of pushing on the gas for a bit then letting go. I can't help it, I love listening to the exhaust when I let off the gas y'know :/ *BUT* when I am...

Alright so not be an insufferable douche, but um could one of you summarize exactly what you two are saying I should do? Kind of lost in all the multiple posts and botched quotes lol I understood: Turn on car, disconnect positive battery cable, test AC voltage from alternator. Is that correct...

KAM has been reset and battery unplugged for more than 30 minutes multiple times with each time having the car go through the relearn process. No luck. I do not know anything about the FRP needing to be steady or not but in very first video a page back the FRP did vary from I believe it was...

First video is cold start. letting engine warm up, and some in town driving. I forgot RPMs in the first one so my bad. Second video is in town driving with some highway driving. Also apologize for the messenger pop up. Didn't realize it had popped up til I came to a stop.

I'm going to warn you it is a loooooong datalog. Think I may do another one tonight and let the car idle in my driveway for about 5-10 minutes. Which I should add, I really appreciate the help anyone and everyone posting here. Thanks.

Here are the goods

Which parameters?

So what exactly do I need to datalog and in what units? Just doing a quick conversion FRP was anywhere from 38psi to almost 41psi Fuel rail voltage was from 2.68Volts to 2.83Volts