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  1. U

    Different years and injector models.

    Thanks for the info @StockishS197 ! Yep, all purple, and likely the LU24A as they're stock to the car. The older ones from the '07 manifold were all black pieces. The bottom pintle area was different - the black ones are more conical inside with a smaller plastic surround, while the purple ones...
  2. U

    Different years and injector models.

    Was finally putting the stock '10 manifold back on with the CMCV delete after plugging the back holes a little better (and replacing a hose that leaked). I had been using an '07 stock manifold in the interim. It came with Injectors but I never paid attention to the differences. The stock '07...
  3. U

    Driveshaft

    I wrote them off as a vendor, and refuse to do business with them again. Their warranty is as good as their word: worthless.
  4. U

    Driveshaft

    Several years back I went through a phase on my 2010 of lowering, changing the suspension bits and putting in a 1 piece driveshaft. I went with DSS at first but it kept making a metallic "tink" sound when starting off from a dead stop. DSS claimed the joint was bottoming out and we're going to...
  5. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Happy post Thanksgiving "bliss!" On a whim I wanted to report: it's been a couple years, I've put a few thousand miles on the car since, took it out with the wide tires (NT05 295 width all 4 corners) and spent this past summer having fun. I've had zero clunks or issues out of the suspension -...
  6. U

    UCA bushings and bolts needed to complete job

    I had a UMI roto-joint UCA with bracket. Later switched to a J&M design that's held up much better. Stock diff. bushing went pretty quickly after that, and I put in a urethane bushing (which tore), and quickly went to a Steeda spherical bearing. Took off the anti-whine weights as well. I can...
  7. U

    Clunk Clunk Sound.

    I'm going to hazard a guess at gear lash - many of these cars have heavy gear lash in the rear ends (my '10 GT with 3.73s does it pretty badly). I had an '07 V6 that made the same clunks, but milder. Switching to a 1 piece driveshaft helped (less mass), but it still clunks.
  8. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    ] It sounds like you have a similar setup as my car, so I can hazard a few guesses. Oh yeah, I also had to replace the roto-joint on the pandhard bar, as it was causing side-to-side clunks. It was also the Delrin liner that had cold-flowed and stuck, causing binding and wear, which lead to...
  9. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    The epoxy would need to be long term resistant to the typical heat range and chemicals. I will look at the datasets that I can find. The O ring path these plates used was identical to the OE path, only shallower. Had it been roughly 0.1" deeper, the OE gasket would have functioned normally. I...
  10. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    His plates are identical to the Steeda parts, minus the OE gasket groove. Makes me think they're early Steeda prototypes or copies.
  11. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    I have a '10 and was switching it out to the earlier type with aluminum plates. The Steeda CMCV delete plugs for the later all-plastic intakes are bad at sealing, and with time, will leak. Not a great solution, and Steeda stopped selling them. It's been regular maintenance to ensure they seal...
  12. U

    Alternative CMCV delete plate brand to avoid

    Posting this as I'm still currently dealing with this. Rapid Precision Machining and Fab in Pompano Beach, Fl, and its owner, Adam Louramore, try to sell a CNC-made CMCV delete plate for the 4.6L 3V engines. They look almost identical to the Steeda billet plates, with one small exception: they...
  13. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Update: It's been a month - the car is clunk free. Not being able to re-use the UMI body bracket due to collapse kind of sucked, but the stock one works just fine, even with the spherical bearing in the diff and J&M extreme joint UCA. As "luck" would have it, I received two driver-side LCAs...
  14. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    The J&M Extremes use a polyurethane bushing on the ball, which should hold up better. I had their polyball versions a while back and put a lot of miles on them - they worked fine, too, so I suspect their extreme joints will do nicely. Urethane is at least less likely to cold flow or wear in...
  15. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    I finally had some help and was able to crawl under the car and determine the source of the clunks. At this point, none of the bolts were loose - hooray, I solved that issue. Thread locker plus jam nuts....that is unlikely to come loose. The real source of the clunks was obvious once I got the...
  16. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    You're a brave man to marry golf cart batteries and bags of corn.
  17. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    In your case, I would suspect shock mounts at either top or bottom, perhaps even swaybar mounts.
  18. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Not always. TTY is really about the application. Any bolt can be yielded with enough torque applied, which is why specifications and bolt grades exist - the higher grades resist yielding/deforming to a greater degree. However, once their limit is reach, they too will yield. A TTY torque spec is...
  19. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    The first time I noted TTY head bolts in a Ford was the 80s Escorts. Ford switched in...'83, I think, because the heads were warping when the engine overheated, and uneven torque was the cause (reusable bolts). So, they switched to TTY bolts, problem was better solved. Of course, they could've...
  20. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Torque to yield bolts usually have a numerical followed by an angular torque spec which will yield a bolt. However, when a numerical torque is provided, the bolt is almost certainly not going to yield, as a torque number is going to have variance on it per torque wrench, thread quality and if...
  21. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Mine was good for a bit, clacky, but not terrible. It worsened significantly after the bumps, to the point that it sounds like a truck's trackbar when it has no bushings left...just tons of rattling/clacking noises, and the worse let off/ apply gas clack I've heard. Axle is very slightly, but...
  22. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    The clunk, even with a one-piece driveshaft, is often gear lash. My rear end has a whole lot of it (3.73 gears from the factory), and though the pinion doesn't move inward or not, I have noticed gear noise when under a load compared to coasting. Kind of like a mild supercharger whine. Car came...
  23. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Glad this thread may have helped, and I'd love to hear if they loosen up on you again. Out of curiosity, what arms are you using? Any relocation brackets? Did the upper loosen as well? Thanks for chiming in. Maybe I can get an idea of *how* something is loosening if I get enough input from others.
  24. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    I do, yes, and checked it a couple times to be sure it wasn't a problem. The jam nut has blue loctite on it as well as being extremely tight, and no issues from either the bushing or roto-ball ends. It has been tight and trouble-free since day 1.
  25. U

    Rear LCA experiences over the years

    Sounds similar to my issue with the amount of new hardware and parts. I let mine go for a while, which resulted in hogged-out holes, mostly in the chassis end, and I had to put in stepped weld-washers to fix that problem. At the time it was definitely torque loss due to things compressing, but...

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