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Trying to get these built these days takes an act of congress. They are a great setup.

Dan, we (Terry and I) are just getting the LS550 on the track. First are some tests with zero aero. Then the aero is added. First and second stages won't be as complicated as your aero is. Third stage -might- be complicated, including a belly in the front splitter.

No, we don't. The swap kits have to appeal to builders for various uses, so we don't use motor plates.

...and an S197!

Increase the fuel temp - yes. Easy option to plumb the return line to the tank - yes. Is that optimal - maybe not. We want the feed to go back to the surge tank first, as the MAIN priority is to ALWAYS have fuel available. The compromise is that sometimes the fuel is a little hotter. That would...

It's a straight swap. No coding or programming necessary. The rack programming is self contained and just sees a CANbus vehicle speed and steering angle input.

Well, that's a yes and no. The Mustang has a number of things going for it, and the Camaro has some things going for it. My #1 beef with the Camaro (5th or 6th gen) is the poor ABS, and the #1 benefit of the Mustang is it's excellent ABS programming for track use. Beyond that, I like the...

And the other huckster, Ron Sutton, had people snowed too. And put on a program that was well attended, but inaccurate. He got in with some of the Pro Touring promoters and had a lot of publicity. But it was a sham.

If cost isn't a factor I buy wheels that are $1100 each (or more). The Forgestar wheels are the decent budget solution.

Yes, we made the bumper beam in-house. It takes both a bending and a curving tool to make them. But we've found that they work better for track cars and make it easy to weld on brackets for the bumper shell, radiator, other heat exhangers, splitter, etc...

What testing do you want done? We've already checked the stiffness of the tub. It's stiff enough that we can't find meaningful movement without any bracing. Adding bracing won't reduce that zero to half of zero.

Though we used something like that in the past with another model strut, we don't use them anymore. After a couple torque cycles we just replace the bolts. Make sure they are torqued properly and you shouldn't see any slippage.

No programming necessary. Buy either the 2013-14 rack, or the Motorsports rack. Bolt it in. Plug it in. Drive it without steering issues. WIN!

Nope, that's a little mud there. That car never had a spec of rust on it.

Here you go. You bought a badly designed camber plate. There is no easy way to fix it without a complete replacement. There are good camber plates out there that can be easily adjusted, but BC Racing (and most Chinese/Taiwanese) parts aren't tailored to the car and built by people that know how...

Depends on which Eibach they are. Some are pretty balanced, and some have rear springs that are a little too stiff for the fronts. But this is splitting hairs. They are all soft. And all are pretty good relative to the rest of the lowering springs out there.

Having measured the stiffness of the S197 body shell, it would be extremely difficult to achieve any measurable improvement from a small part like the braces we are talking about. Having worked with the floppy Fox and SN95 cars, I was concerned. But the S197 stiffness was off the charts. The...

Terry started using the Schroth harnesses at my request. Their combination of belt material and latches made for the easiest adjustment, and ability to get them tighter, easier. And they made some custom combinations for us to fit some specific seat and car setups that their off-the-shelf belts...

On the bracket distortion or tearing, we usually only see that when the bar bottoms out on something like the arm or chassis. It's usually because the length of the end-link is wrong, or it's put on the wrong side of the bar or bracket.

In my experience using lowering springs with stock dampers is a recipe for bad ride quality. The soft rates of most aftermarket lowering springs are not stiff enough to make up for the lost stroke. If you are going to run lowering springs, they should be paired with shortened dampers. That...

With the right offset on an 11" wheel you don't have to touch that bump. For a 12" rear wheel, you do have to cut it off.

Forgestar changed the barrel shape last year. Now all the F14 wheels have the CF5 barrel. It added a little weight, but gave the wheel more clearance.

We used to use some pimpy, expensive cleaner on our track wheels to remove all the dust without an hour of scrubbing. We've recently switched to Code Red wheel cleaner. It easily matches the best wheel cleaning products, and is relatively inexpensive and easy to use. Still not a touchless...

The Bilsteins we work with should not be run at stock height, and really want to be used with lowering springs that lower the car 1" or more.

We've seen a number of them in bad shape. We either replace them with a stock rubber bushing or a spherical bearing from Steeda. I don't like using poly in that location.