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Yeah. Most low-profile summer tires are designed to fit like this, for best contact patch, sidewall shape, pressure, etc. I'm speaking from the point of view of someone who does track and autocross events however. If you're not into lateral G's, I suppose it doesn't quite matter so much...

You say no issues. I say lots of bulge. I suppose it depends on the application.

Yeah 345 is WWAAAYYYY too big for an 11. especially with a 30 sidewall. A 315 is pushing it. 345 on a 12 is honestly not enough wheel.

You've gotta do a flare to make it right. Car in picture has 345/35/18's in the rear, 335/30/18's in the front, all on 18x12 wheels. The 345/35/18 has similar overall dimensions as a 345/30/19. The picture is during a left turn so the fender is rolled out a bit on the right hand side of the...

Do you know if they're intertwined to a degree more than "the traction control needs the wheel speed sensor to tell if you're spinning?"

Not high enough such that small (285 and under) street tires freak it out, low enough such that using a 315 Hoosier A6 does make it freak out. I don't really know numbers though. Granted...my suspension was fairly optimized for a street legal track/autox car...as much as you can do anyway and...

The PSS would probably surprise you...I would take it over an NT05 or Venus V12 on grip, and over any other 300. It gets a mention on the list for its life and wet performance, while only giving up a little to the 200's in dry performance

Leave it on!!!! And try better tires if you want more decelerative G's.

Assuming you're not interested in anything >300TW: Fast: Rival S, RE71R Jacks of all trades: RS3, RE11, AD08R, Rival, Direzza Z2 Star Spec, Pilot Super Sport Cheap: NT05, Ventus V12, Federal 595RSR ????: RT615k

Agreed. When they acquiesce to the demands of the rabble, it just makes my wheels more expensive.

@notTerryFair in the house! Ok I can go to work now.

You mean besides where he points at the camera and says "So that's the problems with Forgestars, FUCK!?"

I'm not speaking for Terry (and am in no way affiliated in any business sense with Vorshlag)....but I would say that breaking a race part on a race track is largely handled on a case by case basis. If it's a part that has an obvious design flaw that's been rectified and recalled, that is quite...

That's like a...29" tall tire? Dayum. They'll never be as comfortable as your bilsteins. Small twin tubes with small pistons. Not much you can do about it.

Agree with other Mark on this one. Your culprit is the damper not the spring.

It reeeeallly doesn't even look like a forgestar to me, either that or it's an OLD model. Either way, any wheel can break. Gotta inspect Forgelines, Forgestars, and AMR's all the same.

There's your problem....no coasting!!!!

and....what happens when your autoblip doesn't blip? It's third party electronics...it's gonna fail eventually. I'm all for driver aids that make you faster, but a mathematician that can't do math without a calculator isn't worth much.

I had those Vorshlag-made bases in my car. You could grab the seat headrest and rock it back and forth and the whole car would move. They're quite a bit more substantial than any of the "off the shelf" ones I've had my hands on.

Just a note on the scope creep...personally I wouldn't worry about the front geometry correction. The rear LCA's provide a nice tangible benefit though. What are the rates of the P vs. K?

African or European?

Of all their parts, the rear UCA looks the sketchiest IMO. It's not as bad as some other "early" designs from a couple companies but it's close.

which parts in particular? Looks like a lower-quality whiteline ripoff

I'm reasonably sure they're all the same. The GT500 might have steering limiters??? I don't know that for sure and heard it from a "somewhat reliable" source.

Are those Kent's Motons? Good choice using Stuart...he's a valving wizard. Cool build