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Recaros were a standalone option in 2012. As for the SVTPP, not sure if this helps but this is from an old Motor Authority article: New for the 2011 Shelby GT500 is the SVT Performance Package geared toward true performance enthusiasts wanting more out of their already potent 550 horsepower...

I had one of the early WL UCAs that cracked within 100 miles of use and thankfully I caught it before it broke free. Not good. But WL really went to work and re-engineered their stuff and I have no qualms about the current LCAs they sell (I bought mine about 2 years ago). They seem very...

Like Norm, I am not seeing the spherical end despite the possibly typical ebay misinformed description. The WL LCAs have bushings that have a little more give than the poly bushings, which can bind at full articulation. I used to have the Steeda billet alloy non-adjustable ones with poly on...

Enfield - you might want to try these Whiteline adjustable LCAs. I have them on my Boss 302. Whiteline Mustang Double Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms - MAX-C Bushings KTA195 (05-14 All) (americanmuscle.com)

Does your car not have any bumpstops on it? Or do you mean you just haven't swapped out or trimmed down the ones that came on it? Either way, I don't think the bumpstops are an issue for your problem. I guess in theory you could put much taller rear springs on to jack the rear of the car up...

As Juice pointed out, if both of your tires are getting rub, you need narrower tires or wheels with more offset. Some BFGs tend to run a little wide anyway so maybe that is it.

Questions for Lcfrshadow: 1) what wheels? 2) what make and model tire? 3) is the car lowered? How much? 4) is your axle centered with an adjustable panhard? With those answered, we might be able to figure something out.

That is very strange. I can't imagine there would be any difference in anything since they use the same engine block, transmission, and rear axle as a GT. A quick glance at AM shows the FP driveshaft fits the Boss (scroll down under 'features'). Same for the other brands they sell...

This is going to be fun! Love me some Foxbodies. I appreciate your attitude about all of the pitfalls of customizing cars - when you watch youtube videos and read forum posts, you think that everything must be so simple and black and white but it NEVER is!

I think it's fixed! Swapped rear springs for FRPP P springs and new isolators, disconnected the UCA at the diff then reinstalled, noticed one of the O-rings on my Fays2 Watts link was cut, sprayed WD40 over the heim joints, and removed the factory air compressor kit from the trunk, reinstalled...

I freaking love those wheels! I have dreams about buying another 05-14 Mustang and putting those wheels on it.

Yes LCAs have been swapped - good idea, though! BTW - I love the way your car looks, Bingo! Are those the Saleen wheels?

Another update from today: removed rear swaybar altogether. Drove around. Squeak squeak squeak. Ordered P springs and new isolators. If this doesn't work, I will removed my Watts link.

Update: installed Ford Racing K rear springs and new upper and lower isolators. Took it for a drive, and the squeak came back after 15mins. The next day, I drove it for 45 minutes and it was completely silent but I still took it my favorite Mustang shop to examine. They thought it might be...

Fun video! It captures perfectly the lockout problem so many of us Boss owners suffered through until seeing the light and getting a twin disc.

Ah ok I see what you mean - yes, I installed the diff side bolt on both the Steeda and OE UCAs with the axle loaded and not drooped. I was thinking about the other end of the UCA where it mounts to the chassis bracket - there is pretty much no way for me to tighten it to spec once it's bolted...

I would love to hear the technique of how to properly torque the UCA with the suspension loaded. I can't get a wrench in there without the axle being down. I am contemplating taking the whole rear end back apart anyway.

accidental double post

Hey guys thank you for the replies! 1) it started several years ago but was just an occasional squeak here and there. It had the Steeda LCAs and UCA, WL relos, and KWs at the time. Watts link came later; 2) rear swaybar has brand new bushings and endlinks (literally brand new this weekend)...

But still can't figure out what is causing mine. Only starts squeaking/creaking after the car has been driven for at least 15 minutes or so and then it squeaks like crazy over smaller pavement imperfections (big dips or undulations don't make the noise). And it has gotten worse recently...

Talk to Ken at KNS Brakes. They have a number of options for the 2013 GT500. https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/1799_2013+Ford+Mustang+Shelby+GT500+5.8L

That should not be a problem at all as long as you get an adjustable panhard bar. Lots of guys running 305s and even 315s out back (with proper offset wheels) on lowered cars (with things like Ford K springs).

Mackitude - I absolutely LOVE those wheels! Wow wow wow.

I also LOVE the look of the CF5s. Unfortunately, I have bent a wheel on two different sets on 2 different cars I have owned (Boss 302 and Focus RS). And I have never, ever bent any other wheel on any other car in 25+ years of cars so it's weird.

As someone who has gone through several sets of wheels on my Mustang, the one piece of advice I would give you is pick your tires, then pick your wheels. A really good overall setup with be a 285/35/19 on 9.5 or 10" wheels and you can run that at all 4 corners (rotate-able!) with no issues if...