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Car is sold, but added pic with car so you can see what they look like. About 1800 miles (car only had 10,800 miles when sold). No track or drag strip use, mildly street driven... Like new condition overall Stored on flat stoppers in summer, in heated basement in winter. Also comes with working...

I've fixed cast iron engine blocks with this. Mig's like mild steel (stuff isn't cheap though) https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/products/crown-alloy-035-x-2-royal-44-30-nickel-iron-manganese-er-nifemn-ci-mig-2-lb-spool-rs44-1f?gc_id=20946202281&g_special_campaign=true&gad_source=1

Howdy, that is some serious "looking" camber for a solid axle car (or maybe the left rear tire is in a ditch, in which case that is some serious articulation you have for a mustang :))

Cool to see someone has a fix now.

No bites on my car sale, so de-modded the car. Removed Roush Supercharger, and now getting a heavy misfire. Code and live data indicate Cyl #5. Put different set of plugs in, same result. Switched coil packs between 5 and 6, same result. Stock injectors sat for 5 years. Only 7K orig miles on...

REALLY!! appreciate you trying. I does not look like any tube is connected to that port. A guy I work with (has a mildly modified 12), suggested it might just be capped off (he has a Boss intake, so his is different). Anyway, thanks for all you've done.

More pics I found, in case anyone ever needs them.

Thanks a bunch!!! I found more pics I will add here, but one that I am still not sure on is a port on the back of manifold. Any chance you can take a look for me there?

So far, this is what I have. What I really need is routing for brake booster. There is a port on back of manifold, but it looks large for the brake booster tube.

Pulled blower off and selling car to Carvana I guess. Anyway I don't recall how vac and pcv is routed. Almost impossible to find pics of a stock Stang at this point. Even the manual (factory) on CD I have, is limited in routing for this stuff. Anyone still have a mostly stock 14, coyote...

Thinking of getting a 20-22 GT500. I have 11 vehicles, so something would have to go. ZERO issues (no accidents, etc..), you can eat off engine compartment/chassis. (I even painted rear diff, as it annoyed me Ford didn't :)) Never seen rain or snow and I am original owner. It is a base car with...

Those struts look promising I don't understand why the aftermarket has not come out with even a two position electronic shock/strut setup for the Mustang. My Fusion Sport has adjustable electronic suspension, but it's really just two settings, Normal and Sport. But it really makes a huge...

I turned off TPMS on my 14, as I run DR's below the TPMS threshold. That said, on my new F250, FORSCAN allows you to reset the threshold.

Original tires?? Kind of scary..........:) I only replace the sensors when they go bad/dead. And as mentioned, Mom's are now 15 years old and going strong. My Mom's car has the "basic" TPMS light on the dash. Assume yours would too, if you had it.

My mom smacked a curb recently in her 09 Grand Marq. Had to remove band/sensor to have rim redone. First I'm amazed the batteries work in all of them (all original), as current sensor batteries are good for 5-7 years. Second, I got a new band kit to remount to the wheel. I don't see anything...

In less you are just in LOVE with your current car, and a ton of work/money that you will NEVER get back (so you will have to keep it forever or take a huge hit upon sale, if/ever), I would just sell it and pick up something like this. I trapped 130 with a same SC, much better tune, and X-pipe...

Thought about taking mine on a road course, maybe once for S &G, but I don't have any of those upgrades. So that pretty much seals the deal as a "not ever happening", especially since I am auto on top of everything else. Thanks for the update.

I don't think you are that bad. I have Roush Phs 3, lightweight batt, lightweight rad support, no front crash beam, no cats (race only usage), no rear seats/belts (very light cardboard rear seat delete, covered in thin black fabric), no spare/jack, no trunk carpet, light chinese 18" bullits and...

Will try the hood thing, thanks. I bet many are still driving around with various states of vibrations, having tried multiple wheel setups and who knows what-else (to fix it), and never figured it out. Many did go to one piece shaft, but that was a disaster for me.

For the amount of money you spent so far, might be just worth buying a cheaper scissor lift and do it yourself, if no one else will...

Along those lines, what about a bent axle tube? Haven't some busted the crappy plug weld at the drag strip on the newer 8.8's? IF somehow, an axle tube bent slightly right around that mileage, might be contributing factor (although I think it would wear out tires quick, much more than create a...

Driveshaft is connected directly to rear diff and is the only other driveline component (cept wheels/tires) that spins exclusively faster, in relation to MPH.

THIS!!! Even though both fluids and trans/diff/engine rebuilds have both gone up 30-40% in recent years, still worth it (all day long, comparatively) to me on even $600-$1000 of cumulative extra/early fluid changes, over the cost of even just a diff rebuild (assuming paying shop to do it)...

Anyone do an actual vibration analysis?? I bought an app for my phone that was $100 and seems to work pretty well. I'm sure the pro equipment is 1000 times better than that. Use any remote cameras on wheels, suspension, steering, driveshaft, to see if anything is visibly shaking. I would...

I believe this is correct. When I first realized carrier and carrier rubber were not servicable, I looked up stock shaft. Discontinued. Good to hear. If you have issues getting a suitable rubber piece and need to get the McMaster Carr stuff, I could maybe help you get it shipped from NJ USA...