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I have an adjustable CHE unit with the snubber and a clunk as well... I have the stepped spacers and will try them out soon.

Its a 4" Shaftmasters ds. I haven't had the car on a dyno. The tune I'm running was made on another car with the exact same mods that I have. It made 515 rwhp on the first pull at 12 psi, then was backed down to 488 rwhp by JDM. Thanks for the complement, but I'm sure it has some better...

JDM tune, one piece ds, 2400 maf, boost controller, upper and lower controll arms, P-51 clutch, swaybar delete, cmcv deletes, electric exhaust cutout, big and littles, Steeda underdrive pullies. That pass was not with everything tweaked...there is alot more in it, I just haven't been back to...

The coolant pipe is a simple fix...just keep it the way it is now and don't use the supplied piping. Problem solved, or get the piping from Turbonetics.

The name "posi" originally was used by GM as the brand name for its original equipment limited-slip differential. The full name was "Posi-Trac." After a time, "posi" became a popular name for limited-slip differentials of any origin. This same device, first available in Chrysler products was...

No problem bro! The TrueTrac is great for daily driving and drag strip use, but for a "hard core" drag racer the locker would be a better choice with a high horsepower setup. I'm around 525 rwhp and only drag race occaisionally, it's perfect for my needs.

Eaton and Detroit are one in the same...this link has some great info as well as pics. I have the True Trac and love it! http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm

H10 for the fog lights and H13 for the head lights. Just for general knowledge and because I couldn't find them listed anywhere when I swapped all mine out for HID's...the Roush fog lights are H10 as well.

Check all your band clamps and also check the intercooler to see if maybe a rock hit it... There are quite a few things that could cause it to not build boost. Look for the obvious first...

Bad kitty...BAD...lol I might try to make it to Sealy on the 24'th too Timbo. I'm waiting on a back ordered rear end housing spherical bearing from Steeda right now...then I should be set!

WOW! Glad I'm running the off road legs... Congrats on the new found power Timbo.

I can personally vouch for the Roush P-51. I have no complaints...

You'll want a new pilot bearing as well. They're cheap too... I'd get a new slave, but I would check into getting your pressure plate rebuilt. If you have a local clutch shop, they should be able to rebuild it for around $50.00 bucks and it'll be as good as new.

I've tried to find out who makes the clutch for them as well...where did you find the info? Thanks!

Agreed! The turbo will make plenty of torque without them...

Here ya go. Free shipping too! http://www.stage3motorsports.com/product/404001/200509_Mustang_GT_Roush_P51_Clutch_Assembly.html

The Spec 3+ seems to be the Spec with the least amount of problems, if I were to use them it's the one I would choose too. After reading all the problems people have had with Spec, I wouldn't go anywhere near them... Good job finding one issue with the Roush P-51 though, it's hard to find...

+1. I've had no issues with mine...

I like the P-51...

The piping has to be revised to fit with an automatic transmission. Has nothing to do with emissions...

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Good job Willy! You've built a sweet machine... Congrats.

I think they have already removed the video that was in this link...

Depends on how flat they are on the backside... They don't LOOK bad though.

They are H10's, same as the factory fog lights. I have 8k bi-xenon in the headlights (H13's), 8k single xenon in the Roush fogs, and 3k in the factory fogs(H10's)...