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I see in your sig you have lowering springs. Lowering springs require camber plates with shperical bearings to correct caster/camber and tie rods with heim joints to correct bump steer. When everything is new things are great. After a few months on a daily driven street car with pot holes...

Only thing I've had to replace on the motor is alternator, water pump, upper radiator hose, rear main seal, spark plugs, a gasket at the oil filter, and the already mentioned orings. 5 stars for the 4.6 3V.

Since I upgraded my audio and running multiple AMPs now this morning I decided to upgrade my wiring for battery and alternator. Removed the alternator and there it is, lol. Basically I cut a few inches off of each pipe and inserted heater hose and worm clamps in between. Yea, it's dirty in...

I would take a picture of my setup for you. But I'm NOT taking off my intake manifold.

Probably about 8 years ago I replaced the pipe and o-ring setup with heater hose and worm clamps. Hasn't leaked since and probably cost me less than $10.

My door panels looked bad enough and the fake red leather finally fell off long ago so I decided to port it with a hole saw just to see what happened. Sound's much better. If you're curious they are the Skar VD-8 subwoofer, they need the extra airflow.

Finally got tired of not being able to hook up my iphone and play Spotify and even plug in a thumb drive on my shaker 500. Over the last two weeks I installed a new Kenwood touchscreen multi media deck, 4 Kenwood 6 x 8's, and 2 Skar Audio 8in subs in the doors. Running a Hifonics Brutus Gamma...

I haven't been underneath my S197 lately but IIRC the only other sensor is for reverse.

AFAIK there is no aftermarket upgrade to the TOB. The stock TOB is good enough no matter what you're HP numbers are. As long as your TOB preload measurements are good and you shim it if necessary it will be OK. Search for the threads on measuring preload on the TOB. I don't remember the...

Even in neutral with clutch pedal not pressed the gears on the input shaft, countershaft, and output shaft are constantly engaged (but not locked because you are in neutral) and if any bearings inside the transmission are worn the gears will be out of alignment and cause gear whine. Even with...

What he said. I've rebuilt my TR3650 a few times. There are a few old threads on this forum that you can search for that describe the process. With just a few special tools and the rebuild manuals you can do it yourself. Find all your rebuild bearings and parts here. Pro-Force Performance...

No worries, I read MERCON V and assumed it was a TR-3650. Good luck with diagnosing your problem.

At a stop and idle - does it rattle? Push the clutch pedal in, does the rattle stop? If so it is most likely the throw out bearing going bad. It could also be excessive play with the transmission input shaft which would require a transmission rebuild to replace the bearing's. Could also be a...

I'm sure the new Ford part will work and seal things up properly. The reason I went with the heater hose and worm clamp alternative is because almost every supercharger kit for the 3 valve requires you do the exact same thing during install. So I kinda figured it would work. Besides, we all...

It's is most likely the coolant pipe under the intake manifold. Get a light and look down between the intake manifold runners at your engine block valley. Is is stained with coolant? There is a weep hole in the back of the valley where it will drip into the exact spot you described above...

My spare is 255/45/18 mounted on an 18x8.5. It fits very snug but an inch or two higher than the trunk floor pan which I don't mind.

Aftermarket flywheel and clutch combinations are not always the exact same spec (thickness) as OEM. Sometime you needs a spacer a two. I had to install 2 spacers with my setup. Been working great for a couple years now I think.

TR3650 History (pro-forceperformance.com) This website and vendor is my go to guy for buying parts and rebuilding tremecs. Upgrading the input shaft is probably the most popular upgrade but you have to almost completely disasemble the transmission to put it in. Choice is yours. IMO the key...

I am not 100% sure it will work but I can't think of any specific reason why it shouldn't. I'm sure somebody else on here will chime in to confirm.

Sorry I didn't see this post before I put in my last reply. I understand if you don't have a garage, that sucks. Like I said you CAN do it yourself in 1 day for a couple hundred bucks. That's better than waiting for it to get really bad over the next two months and having to pay a shop 2...

A sign of a bad wheel bearing in the front or back will get louder when entering a turn, like a freeway on-ramp or off-ramp so you are carrying plenty of speed. If the bad one is on the left side, then when turning right you are loading up the left side of the car and the bad wheel bearing will...

My 1st guess is pinion bearing going bad. Can you grab hold of the pinion flange that connects to the driveshaft and check for any free play. If there isn't any movement it doesn't rule out the bearing is going bad. Bottom line is if pinion bearing is going bad you might as well rebuild the...

Yea I tired the one piece bearing and seal once. Picked it up at a local parts store. ORielly. I think it was their standard generic house brand "Masterpro". Looked cool when I took it out of the box. Bad idea. Same problem you had, it was way to wide to get the axle all the way in and...

Sounds kinda like what Stan from pro-forceperformance.com said above. Maybe the previous owner removed the flange and didn't follow the correct procedure when putting it back on. Or it just went bad. If you have a hard time finding a new seal (rubber washer) then contact Stan at the link...

Thought about it some more. The shift shaft seal if very small and sturdy and at the very top of the transmission and very little fluid makes it's way up there, but I suspect the main reason this shift shaft seal can go bad is old age, lots a miles, and excess vibration from other components...