So I am getting ready to tackle the rockerarms/lash adjusters/phasers on my 3v. I ordered both the PQY tool and the OEM brand copy of the Ford service tool.
I read the reviews of the OEM tool and some were not so positive with reports of breakage and the knob not quite reaching or damaging threads, but many were positive, if a bit annoyed at the fussiness of using it.
I figured I'd mess around with an old head. Obviously, its much easier off the car!
Well, it was actually pretty good, but I can say it was definitely a little fussy.
What I figured out:
-place the forked part of the tool all the way in position and hold it up against the cam. Take the knob portion off the depressor part. Drop the depressor part into the head. It's a little fussy (there's that word again...), but simple enough. The top portion with threaded nut goes up into the forked part first. To do this, let the threaded nut drop down, still holdingbthe forked part up against the cam, insert the rod up thru the forked part, rotate the threaded nut until the flat spot lines up and it will seat up inside to the forked part. Now you can lift the depressor and swing it into place over the valve retainer.
Pull up and maintain pressure while putting the knob on. If everything is right, the knob feels like it just barely catches the threads, but will go on with just turning the knob by hand, no tools. One reviewer mentioned grinding down the top of the depressor to get more thread engagement.
I was able to depress the valve quite easily turning the knob with just my hand. It did not take a lot of effort.
Not too difficult, but you have to get the sequence right. The only issue there is the clearance with the headbolt bosses. You have to watch how the foot sits on the valve retainer due to how close the bosses are. You might have to rotate the depressor left or right but its hard to do in place. You probably have to pull it out and try the other side.
This is important because it is really easy to catch the edge of the headbolt boss. I do believe this is the cause of the tools breaking. If the foot is on the boss, then the tightening of the knob the whole tool starts to act like a jack wedged between the headbolt boss and the cam. The tool is cast steel, I think, so not the strongest. Nor is it chunky. The failures reported were broken feet, broken forks and actually stripping/breaking the threads off the threaded nut. All of that makes sense if the foot is on the boss and the knob gets tightened too much. The valve will not move and if a wrench is used, something will break.
If you think you need a wrench, something ain't right!
I also noticed that the depressor foot will easily sit over a valve keeper, preventing the keepers and retainer from separating from the valve stem. It doesn't take much before the valve begins to move.
I was going to try the PQY tool, too, but.....I put it someplace where I wouldn't lose it......yeah.
Good:
Bad:
Rocker removed, foot sitting on retainer:
I read the reviews of the OEM tool and some were not so positive with reports of breakage and the knob not quite reaching or damaging threads, but many were positive, if a bit annoyed at the fussiness of using it.
I figured I'd mess around with an old head. Obviously, its much easier off the car!
Well, it was actually pretty good, but I can say it was definitely a little fussy.
What I figured out:
-place the forked part of the tool all the way in position and hold it up against the cam. Take the knob portion off the depressor part. Drop the depressor part into the head. It's a little fussy (there's that word again...), but simple enough. The top portion with threaded nut goes up into the forked part first. To do this, let the threaded nut drop down, still holdingbthe forked part up against the cam, insert the rod up thru the forked part, rotate the threaded nut until the flat spot lines up and it will seat up inside to the forked part. Now you can lift the depressor and swing it into place over the valve retainer.
Pull up and maintain pressure while putting the knob on. If everything is right, the knob feels like it just barely catches the threads, but will go on with just turning the knob by hand, no tools. One reviewer mentioned grinding down the top of the depressor to get more thread engagement.
I was able to depress the valve quite easily turning the knob with just my hand. It did not take a lot of effort.
Not too difficult, but you have to get the sequence right. The only issue there is the clearance with the headbolt bosses. You have to watch how the foot sits on the valve retainer due to how close the bosses are. You might have to rotate the depressor left or right but its hard to do in place. You probably have to pull it out and try the other side.
This is important because it is really easy to catch the edge of the headbolt boss. I do believe this is the cause of the tools breaking. If the foot is on the boss, then the tightening of the knob the whole tool starts to act like a jack wedged between the headbolt boss and the cam. The tool is cast steel, I think, so not the strongest. Nor is it chunky. The failures reported were broken feet, broken forks and actually stripping/breaking the threads off the threaded nut. All of that makes sense if the foot is on the boss and the knob gets tightened too much. The valve will not move and if a wrench is used, something will break.
If you think you need a wrench, something ain't right!
I also noticed that the depressor foot will easily sit over a valve keeper, preventing the keepers and retainer from separating from the valve stem. It doesn't take much before the valve begins to move.
I was going to try the PQY tool, too, but.....I put it someplace where I wouldn't lose it......yeah.
Good:
Bad:
Rocker removed, foot sitting on retainer:
