DIY Painting Rear Axle

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My build thread has generated some questions I how I painted my rear axle using Eastwood's 3 stage process on rusty surfaces.

If you are unfamiliar with my build thread you can find it here: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73352

First off you will need the following items:

  1. Wire Brushes
  2. Stainless Steel Wire Wheels with drill attachment
  3. Power Drill
  4. Eastwood Pre-Painting Spray (1 spray can)
  5. Eastwood Rust Converter (1 spray can)
  6. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Matte Black (1 spray can)
  7. Eastwood Chassis Black Extreme Satin Black (1 spray can)
  8. Masking Tape
  9. Paper

Step 1: Decide if you want to attempt to paint the rear axle while it is installed in the vehicle or remove the rear end from the vehicle to paint it. In order to paint the rear axle in the vehicle one will have to tape off quite a bit of items, especially if you want to use the spray (all of the Eastwood products come in brush on or spray on).

I prefer spray on due to the more uniform spray and ease. Also it was convenient for me to remove the rear end because I am installing all new suspension components.

Follow the service manual procedure for removing the rear axle found here: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=94
(Path -- Root » 2005 » Workshop Manuals » 2-Chasis » GROUP 05 [Driveline] » SECTION 205-02B [Rear Drive Axle Differential-Ford 8.8 Inch Ring Gear] » REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION)

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Step 2: Using a power drill and stainless steel wire wheel attachments remove all of the use rust.

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You can see there are still rusted areas on the rear axle. This was not loose rust for me and would have required heavy grinding to remove. I choose to leave it.

Use the Eastwood Pre to clean the rear axle and prepare it for coatings.

Please note this will take some time. It took me about 2 hours to remove all of the loose rust from my rear end. Also take precautions to cover your mustang and anything else you do not want to get covered with rust particles.

Step 3: Using the Eastwood Rust Converter spray or coat the entire rear axle. The first coat will be a bit tricky because it goes on clear and watery. However, within 15 minutes it will start to react with the rust and start turning black. You need two coats of the rust converter. The second coat needs to be applied between 20 - 30 minutes after the first. Be sure that the coats are LIGHT. Also be sure to tape off any areas that should not be painted like the axle hubs and wheel speed sensors.

Basically what the Rust Converter does is convert the rusted metal into a paintable surface. It does not however prevent further rusting, that is what the Rust Encapsulator does.

NOTE: the rust converter takes 48 hours to cure. Leave the rear end and let it cure! Do not attempt to paint over it until it has cured. Also the Rust Converter needs to be applied at a temperature above 65 F.

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After curing for 48 hours:

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Step 4: After the Rust Converter has cured apply the Rust Encapsulator. The Rust Encapsulator will take 2 coats. The Rust Encapsulator will prevent any further rusting and seal it below the surface.

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Note: The Rust Encapsulator needs to be applied at a minimum of 70 F.

Step 5: Now in this step you will apply the Chassis Black Extreme Paint, I choose satin because I prefer less gloss. Basically what the Chassis Black Extreme does is top coat the Rust Encapsulator and protects it and makes the rear end look very good in the process.

Follow the directions on the can and complete two coats.

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Step 6: Re-install the rear axle in the reverse process of the service manual if you choose to remove the rear axle like myself.

Step 7: Enjoy the fact that you not only improved the looks of the rear axle but prevented it from rusting any further with the durable process.

I hope that this was helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions or need any more detail I would be more than happy to update the DIY.
 

eddypython

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awsome DIY.. Always wanted to do this just never had the time. I just don't think I'll be removing the rear though.. Too much headache for me. But cool write up non the less !!

You ever thought of using " that " ( forgot the name ) chemical that you just splash on the rust and it removes it ? Sounds a bit easier that removing it all wth a wire brush.
 

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awsome DIY.. Always wanted to do this just never had the time. I just don't think I'll be removing the rear though.. Too much headache for me. But cool write up non the less !!

You ever thought of using " that " ( forgot the name ) chemical that you just splash on the rust and it removes it ? Sounds a bit easier that removing it all wth a wire brush.

Thanks! You can do it in the vehicle you will just have to spend some time masking the body and other components off. It would also probably be easier to use the brush instead of the spray for the coatings as well. However dropping the rear end is not nearly as hard as you think. It took my father and I about an hour to drop it.

Thanks for the write up. I will be trying the eastwood powder coating kit.

Do you have access to a sandblaster and an industrial oven? Also you will have to take the entire rear end apart (remove axles, differential, etc). I know from experience, I would have preferred to powder coat the rear end, but you need to have the housing bare and since I have no need to rebuild my rear axle I figured just to coat it with paint and rust preventative.
 

46Tbird

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You did a great job man!

I've had good results with POR-15 too.
 

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Thanks guys I hope it is helpful! I take pictures of how it is holding up over time. However, now it's only a nice weather car that's definitely not worst case scenario.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Infamous05

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Awesome write up. Did this while installing gears. Dropping the rear is easy enough. But putting it back is a major PITA doing it yourself. Would have rather gone powder coating route but no one around here with an oven big enough.
 

white05gt

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I will most likely be pulling mine and painting it this winter, I need to pull it to change out the bushing in the rear rather than fight doing it in the car.
 

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Thanks for all the compliments guys! I'm glad it was a help. It's cold here in MI as well, but I am lucky to have a heated garage!

I will most likely be pulling mine and painting it this winter, I need to pull it to change out the bushing in the rear rather than fight doing it in the car.

Good deal! I just changed mine with the Prothane Poly replacement. Its a pretty long process, more than what I would have thought.

I followed tmcolegr's post here: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1116396&postcount=15

Made it pretty simply. I used a hole saw to drill it through and take a large chunk of rubber out and then use a Benzomatic torch and melted the rest. And finally before installing the bushing sand the surface smooth. Don't forgot to grease the bushing!

I prefer the Super Lube grease the most because it is marine grade and will not loose its benefit it it gets wet!
 

white05gt

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I've got a tube of the stuff that BMR sells and it's some pretty good shit.
 

mustangnik

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You did a great job man!

I've had good results with POR-15 too.


This is a great post. It looks awesome.
I have actually used POR15 on my 69 stang and (sorry, but from what it sounds like) it would be a little easier. You don't really need all those sprays. Just clean up the area, wipe it and paint on the POR 15. My girl looks AMAZING.
 

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