Fail safe with 12 codes

[S197gt07]

It has happened a bunch of times, not uncommon

 

[JCON]

I guess the other thing to figure out is if the new battery I put in was actually bad. It appears to always read above 12V but the issue did start immediately after replacing the battery

 

[BruceH]

I am beginning to believe it could be the alternator. On several data logging trips the ECU voltage was reading low 13v. Recently it has been reading at 14v+. This afternoon I started my car and it failed to start. Forgot to mention it has failed to start maybe 6 or 7 times in the last 6 months. Again I will be busy until I graduate in 3-4 weeks but I am going to replace the alternator after that and report back. Has anyone else reported random codes and failure to start due to a bad alternator?

By failed to start do you mean it wouldn't crank? I think you got a bad battery. That would explain the increased voltage reading as the alternator will be commanded to supply a higher voltage when the battery voltage is low.

Edit: It looks like you came to the same conclusion while I was typing.

 

[JCON]

When it actually displayed "Failsafe mode" it was while driving and the car would shut off entirely. a few times over the last few months it has failed to start as well meaning I turn the key and it tried to start but doesn't.

I decide to test the battery idea tonight since it takes 5 minutes to swap them. Returned my Duralast Gold to AutoZone and got a Redtop Optima. While not a sole cause, when the battery was initially disconnected and going to the new one the car fail safed after. In November I disconnected the battery and it fail safed soon after. When I recently installed the ground kit, I disconnected the battery and it fail safed. Now that I think of it, a third of my fail safes came in the same day I disconnected the battery. Tonight, I disconnected the battery, put the Optima in, turned it on, went out on the high way and went WOT. Car kept pulling, no fail safe!

This initially looks good and I am disappointed my new Duralast Gold battery may have been faulty. The real test will be over the next few weeks during my hour drive to class, which is where all the other fail safes occurred.

I will report back. Thanks for the heads up on the battery

 

[JCON]

Pulled out of the driveway this morning and got in to the throttle, less than 3 seconds after hammer down, fail safe... No engine light but I will scan when I get home to see if a code is present.

 

[JCON]

Pending codes were P061B and P2106

 

[JCON]

Failsafe issues seems to have been caused by a non OEM drop in filter that was too thick. Had a Ford master mechanic check it out. I told hi mmy codes since I erased them already. He ran it through his Oasis (Ford tech software) program and it returned that it was a non-OEM filter that was too think. So we took the intake apart and opened the box and found dried waterspots with dirt/dust on top of the filter and particulate in the MAF (even though I have cleaned it several times). My OEM rubber intake tube was also warping and was flimsy around the TB.

To fix the TB issue for now I put electrical tape around the exterior to help it seal better. Which it is doing. For the filter, I ordered the WMS High Velocity 95mm MAF Intake. But since that won't get here until next week, I put electrical tape around the top foam/seal part of the filter which was to thick. Car fail safed in the morning, I put the tape on in the afternoon and have driven it 5 days now with no fail safes in the same conditions and on the same roads that it always fail safed before.

The EVAP code is due to a dirty purge valve.