Headers Install

[Laga]

Yesterday I sprayed all of the upper bolts with free-all and didn't do anything else. Today after I got home from work I jacked the car up and sprayed all of the lower bolts. I then said fuck it and pulled the starter while I was under there and then removed all of the upper bolts. I'll be removing the rest tomorrow after work. If something comes up I'll ask you guys for advice. I made up my mind and I want to do this in my own garage.

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I appreciate the input, for your situation I completely understand your frustration. I'm slightly worried about both things you listed. I've wanted these headers since I got the car and I came across too good of a deal to pass up. I was actually considering switching back to the stock manifolds until this came up.

From the research I've done, these GREEN cats will pass emissions and in Ohio you have two options for E-check. #1 go to the testing facility and drive it in to get inspected on the scanner and visually. #2 is the self serve kiosk for after hours, all you have to do is scan it yourself and if it passes it'll print out a passed E-check sheet and you're good to go... talk about a loophole lol. I'll be doing the kiosk but I did pass visual inspection twice because I just tell them that's how I bought it and they give it a pass.

And as for not gaining much power from the headers I feel as if that could be the case for a 5.0 because its DOHC 4V and well engineered but on the 3V (not saying its poor engineering, just a dated design) I've seen dyno comparisons that show pretty significant gain for being N/A. Regardless I'm too far in to pull out now, we'll see what happens.

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Thank you for these pointers. I would guess that the main weight of the car being supported by the jack stands would allow the motor to be jacked up off of the oil pan without crushing it if the motor mounts were disconnected, still sketches me out though.
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In that case I'll be ordering all of the factory hardware for sure. The headers came with metal gaskets, do you think those are ok to use or would my best bet be to go factory? The last thing I want to do is have to pull the headers off again just to put gaskets on. I have one more question regarding the header gaskets, I should've took a picture while I was in there but I noticed what looked like orange rtv squeezing out of the sides of the manifold gaskets... it was also on the threads of the manifold hardware. I'm guessing that this is Permatex high temp gasket maker, is this really necessary to prevent leaks?

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Just use the metal Kooks gaskets, they work great by themselves. And yes you can lift under the front edge of oil pan. I used a folded up towel on top of a short 2x6 for padding using a floor jack to raise engine. I’ve past 3 emissions tests in IL with the standard cats. We pass as long as there are no CELs and the monitors are all ready.

 

[1 Alibi 2]

" Most " people that did LT's on jack stands said they'd never do it again.
The fact that you have access to a lift makes it a non question..

 

[pass1over]

he would have to wait un

" Most " people that did LT's on jack stands said they'd never do it again.
The fact that you have access to a lift makes it a non question..

He would have to wait until winter to use the lift though, since his car is put up for winter. It was either wait for lift and stare at pretty headers leaning up against the wall, or give it a go on jack stands. Seems like he couldn't wait, lol. I don't blame him, that mod itch is a tough one to scratch.

 

[JC SSP]

On my 05' GT the original BBK gaskets blew out about 2 years after install. I replaced them with Kooks aluminum header gaskets #PY-8023A-AL

I do spray them with hi-temp copper seal (old racers trick) prior to install. Also, initially check the bolts after a few hundred miles just to make sure... So far no issues, 3 years and counting.

 

[Pentalab]

So, my 2c.
I was telling myself, don't bother with LT's, but I went ahead and put LT's on the coyote. It was a headache of a job, and all my fears (both of em) were realized.
Exhaust leaks, header bolts coming lose, check, just as I thought.
No gain in power as seen in my HPDE laptimes. Time & money wasted, but experience gained.
Seriously considering putting the stock shorties back on now. This will be decided after Watkins Glen in 2023.

Also, the fit was not what I expected and the car is stupid loud with any heavy right foot. Do cops really need to see and HEAR you? lolol

As far as I know, any LT header out there is not emission certified, and should fail the visual inspection automatically. (it's good to be exempt lol)

I don't track my 2010 GT auto, (4.6L,3v) with small M90 roush blower, it's just a street car. However, once the JBA ceramic coated LT's + mating hi-flow cats were added (catted H), the difference was night and day.(1 5/8 primary, 2.5" collector) Any idiot could tell the difference in the improved tq + hp. I had previously installed the bigger twin 62mm FRPP TB, and also a 94 tune before the LT install. Before the LT install, it was 350rwhp + 325 rwtq. After the LT install, it's now 386 rwhp and 376rwtq...with the same 5 psi boost. That's a bunch. I could have installed the smaller blower pulley, and gotten similar results...with 7-8 psi boost. It was a high level experiment. The advantage of the LT's is, they work in NA or blower mode. The smaller pulley only works in blower mode.

I think some of the gains are from the ceramic coating on both the inside and outsides of the LT's. The internal exhaust gases are hotter..and flow faster. Eng bay is definitely cooler, like 40 F cooler. Part of that is due to the ceramic coating...and part of it is that the new hi-flow cats reside below the front seats. Oem cats were at base of eng bay..and run hot. On a 2010, 80% of the upper grille is blocked off. Replaced oem upper grille with a 7 bar grille (upper foglamp delete). That vastly improved the airflow through the upper grille..and also provides addition eng bay cooling. It also eliminated the 2 x 90 deg bends into the 'snorkel' that feeds air into the oem airbox. (K+N panel filter also installed). Air is now straight in to the now exposed snorkel intake.

However, the exhaust was too damned loud..+ bad drone at 1900 rpm. (FRPP SS FRS-500 mufflers installed long before the LT's). I'm told the hi-flow cats are the culprit, not the LT's. So in went the SS Pypes M80's , (welded) just before the rear axle...... problem solved.

 

[Juice]

I don't track my 2010 GT auto, (4.6L,3v) with small M90 roush blower, it's just a street car. However, once the JBA ceramic coated LT's + mating hi-flow cats were added (catted H), the difference was night and day.(1 5/8 primary, 2.5" collector) Any idiot could tell the difference in the improved tq + hp. I had previously installed the bigger twin 62mm FRPP TB, and also a 94 tune before the LT install. Before the LT install, it was 350rwhp + 325 rwtq. After the LT install, it's now 386 rwhp and 376rwtq...with the same 5 psi boost. That's a bunch. I could have installed the smaller blower pulley, and gotten similar results...with 7-8 psi boost. It was a high level experiment. The advantage of the LT's is, they work in NA or blower mode. The smaller pulley only works in blower mode.

I think some of the gains are from the ceramic coating on both the inside and outsides of the LT's. The internal exhaust gases are hotter..and flow faster. Eng bay is definitely cooler, like 40 F cooler. Part of that is due to the ceramic coating...and part of it is that the new hi-flow cats reside below the front seats. Oem cats were at base of eng bay..and run hot. On a 2010, 80% of the upper grille is blocked off. Replaced oem upper grille with a 7 bar grille (upper foglamp delete). That vastly improved the airflow through the upper grille..and also provides addition eng bay cooling. It also eliminated the 2 x 90 deg bends into the 'snorkel' that feeds air into the oem airbox. (K+N panel filter also installed). Air is now straight in to the now exposed snorkel intake.

However, the exhaust was too damned loud..+ bad drone at 1900 rpm. (FRPP SS FRS-500 mufflers installed long before the LT's). I'm told the hi-flow cats are the culprit, not the LT's. So in went the SS Pypes M80's , (welded) just before the rear axle...... problem solved.

Guess I forgot the third dissapointment.
Cannot tell any difference with my ceramic JBAs as far as reduced underhood temps.
I should put mine on the dyno before I pull the LTs off and put the reliable and maintainance free stock shorties back on.

 

[Tony Conti]

That depends on the type of exhaust gaskets being used........